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Started By
Message
First boat purchase questions...
Posted on 5/19/15 at 4:47 am
Posted on 5/19/15 at 4:47 am
Keep in mind I have absolutely no experience with purchasing a boat or maintaining one. Completely new to this aside from driving my dads.
We are looking to purchase our first boat used. I have found a few that are within 5k-10k and what we are looking for.
One of them is a 2007 Bayliner 185, which the owner let me know before we go look at it, that a non structural cross member between hull and floor cracked. The price he is asking is $5900. It is listed well below Nada, but I assume that is due to the floor crack.
I have seen the crack through pictures and it isn't anything noticeable without someone pointing it out to you first.
Would that be a no-go for you?
Also if you are purchasing a used boat what things are you looking for? I assume having the engine run and checking for hull issues are the first things. Aside from those should I look for other things?
Thanks in advance!
We are looking to purchase our first boat used. I have found a few that are within 5k-10k and what we are looking for.
One of them is a 2007 Bayliner 185, which the owner let me know before we go look at it, that a non structural cross member between hull and floor cracked. The price he is asking is $5900. It is listed well below Nada, but I assume that is due to the floor crack.
I have seen the crack through pictures and it isn't anything noticeable without someone pointing it out to you first.
Would that be a no-go for you?
Also if you are purchasing a used boat what things are you looking for? I assume having the engine run and checking for hull issues are the first things. Aside from those should I look for other things?
Thanks in advance!
This post was edited on 5/19/15 at 4:56 am
4
Posted on 5/19/15 at 5:53 am to jivy26
What are your primary plans with this boat? Where will it mainly be used?
If you are looking for pleasure riding in deeper lakes/rivers, seems like it wouldn't be a deal breaker.
If you ever plan on doing some real fishing towards South Louisiana marshes, get more of a fishing type boat.
ETA: I'm not sure how/what kind of fishing goes on in Virginia to be able to tell you if this boat would or wouldn't work.
Good Luck
If you are looking for pleasure riding in deeper lakes/rivers, seems like it wouldn't be a deal breaker.
If you ever plan on doing some real fishing towards South Louisiana marshes, get more of a fishing type boat.
ETA: I'm not sure how/what kind of fishing goes on in Virginia to be able to tell you if this boat would or wouldn't work.
Good Luck This post was edited on 5/19/15 at 5:54 am
Posted on 5/19/15 at 6:04 am to CootDisCootDat
(no message)
This post was edited on 11/7/22 at 5:03 am
Posted on 5/19/15 at 6:08 am to jivy26
quote:
Would that be a no-go for you?
I would not buy that boat at any price. Problem will only get worse with more use.
Posted on 5/19/15 at 6:11 am to jivy26
I'm sure you could get that looked at an have an estimate done to fix it. I wouldn't think it would be more than a few hundred, but I'm not experienced in glass boats so I'll shut up until someone more knowledgeable can tell you.
Posted on 5/19/15 at 6:42 am to jivy26
quote:I'd get composite only, wood rots, check the transom, decks and floor for any weak spots. Walk heavily inside the boat and check around the floor drains because water sometimes pools there and speeds up deterioration. Buy the best boat for your intended use that you can afford. A compromise today will only cause discontent once the new wears off.
wood
Remember:
Break
Out
Another
Thousand
Posted on 5/19/15 at 6:49 am to jivy26
I would try to figure out what caused the cracked "support member". If it is from rot, this is an absolute no-go.
I 100% recommend getting the boat inspected by a Marine surveyor. He will check all electrical, mechanical and structural components of the boat and advise you on the boat's true value. There will be a small cost for this but could save you thousands of dollars down the road - not to mention the headaches that a boat with issues will cause.
I 100% recommend getting the boat inspected by a Marine surveyor. He will check all electrical, mechanical and structural components of the boat and advise you on the boat's true value. There will be a small cost for this but could save you thousands of dollars down the road - not to mention the headaches that a boat with issues will cause.
Posted on 5/19/15 at 7:22 am to CootDisCootDat
(no message)
This post was edited on 11/7/22 at 5:03 am
Posted on 5/19/15 at 7:26 am to CootDisCootDat
quote:\
I would not buy that boat at any price. Problem will only get worse with more use.
This a million times over.
1. nothing in a boat that connects the hull to the floor is "non structural"
2. an 07 Bayliner 195 was a piece of crap in 07. Its a huge piece of crap now.
That is one of the cheapestly built boats around. Mostly glue holding it together. There will be plenty of other areas delaminating or pulling loose besides the one he told you about. Take it for a test ride and I gurantee you will be able to hear all kinds of creaks and rattles at every speed. They also used very thin vinyl without quality UV protection, if its not already been replaced, it will likely need after a season or two of use.
ETA - a marine surveyor can be worth their weight in gold if they identify a problem you would have missed. In this case one isnt necessary - Run!
This post was edited on 5/19/15 at 7:28 am
Posted on 5/19/15 at 7:34 am to Chris4x4gill2
(no message)
This post was edited on 11/7/22 at 5:03 am
Posted on 5/19/15 at 7:41 am to jivy26
quote:
Bayliner
quote:
Would that be a no-go for you?
Yes. Friends don't let friends buy Bayliners.
Posted on 5/19/15 at 7:58 am to Putty
My advice would be to focus on quality brands even if you have to go older to stay in your price range. While they may seem dated in the interior or colors or whatever, they will be built better and structurally in better shape than a newer price point boat. If you look hard enough and dont get impatient you can find deals.
Posted on 5/19/15 at 8:31 am to Chris4x4gill2
quote:
My advice would be to focus on quality brands even if you have to go older to stay in your price range. While they may seem dated in the interior or colors or whatever, they will be built better and structurally in better shape than a newer price point boat. If you look hard enough and dont get impatient you can find deals.
Yes the other we were looking at is a 1998 Sea Ray 190 Bowrider. Here is the craigslist of what we are looking at getting. Will be taking it over water tomorrow.
Summary of it:
- 2005 Mercruiser 4.3 190hp V6 motor (205 hours)
- Cushions, carpet, and canvas top all garage kept during off season.
- Self Centering trailer w/ fairly new tires and was inspected April 2015.
- Extra stainless steel prop
- Lifejackets (which I will be tossing and buying new), skis, and wakeboard.
1998 Sea Ray
This post was edited on 5/19/15 at 8:41 am
Posted on 5/19/15 at 8:48 am to jivy26
Why was the engine replaced? when? did they repalce all of the bellows at the same time? - the gaskets between the hull and the outdrive- check them for cracks and dry rot. It has sat outside without a cover so they can degrade quickly.
check the tires for dry rot, walk all over the floor, checking for soft spots or any bounce that will show delamination.
ETA: That should be a Alpha outdrive - should be fine for that size boat, but just FYI Bravo's are more durable and more desirable.
Go test drive that boat but dont buy it. At least not until you look at and test drive at least 3 - 4 more.
Sae Ray is the same comapny as Bayliner. Its just their "mid level" brand.
check the tires for dry rot, walk all over the floor, checking for soft spots or any bounce that will show delamination.
ETA: That should be a Alpha outdrive - should be fine for that size boat, but just FYI Bravo's are more durable and more desirable.
Go test drive that boat but dont buy it. At least not until you look at and test drive at least 3 - 4 more.
Sae Ray is the same comapny as Bayliner. Its just their "mid level" brand.
This post was edited on 5/19/15 at 8:54 am
Posted on 5/19/15 at 8:54 am to Chris4x4gill2
quote:
Why was the engine replaced? when? did they repalce all of the bellows at the same time? - the gaskets between the hull and the outdrive- check them for cracks and dry rot. It has sat outside without a cover so they can degrade quickly. check the tires for dry rot, walk all over the floor, checking for soft spots or any bounce that will show delamination. Sae Ray is the same comapny as Bayliner. Its just their "mid level" brand.
We are taking it over water tomorrow afternoon. I plan on walking every inch of it prior to putting it in the water.
Sea Rays known for having as many issues as the bayliners?
As for the engine replacement those are damned good questions. Just text the guy to find out.
Posted on 5/19/15 at 8:57 am to jivy26
I Added this after you replied - That should be a Alpha outdrive - should be fine for that size boat, but just FYI Bravo's are more durable and more desirable.
Go test drive that boat but dont buy it. At least not until you look at and test drive at least 3 - 4 more.
Sea Rays are "good" boats. Not bottom of the barrel, not cream of the crop.
If you plan to ski / wakeboard with it make sure you get in the water behind any boat you demo and give it a try. You will be amazed how much harder it can be for some boats to plane off pulling a skier. Smaller engines are how many boat builders try to keep the price down. A little wear and age on them and they dont make quite as much power as the did originally..... makes them perform poorly when under a load.
Go test drive that boat but dont buy it. At least not until you look at and test drive at least 3 - 4 more.
Sea Rays are "good" boats. Not bottom of the barrel, not cream of the crop.
If you plan to ski / wakeboard with it make sure you get in the water behind any boat you demo and give it a try. You will be amazed how much harder it can be for some boats to plane off pulling a skier. Smaller engines are how many boat builders try to keep the price down. A little wear and age on them and they dont make quite as much power as the did originally..... makes them perform poorly when under a load.
Posted on 5/19/15 at 9:01 am to Chris4x4gill2
What are some of the more cream of the crop brands that are considered more durable?
Posted on 5/19/15 at 9:03 am to Chris4x4gill2
For what I think you are after - I'd look for a Larson, Four Winns, Crownline, a Mariah if they made something in a 19ft? There are others, but I think Larson is usually the best built for the money in that size.
Posted on 5/19/15 at 9:05 am to Chris4x4gill2
my last several boats have been inboards - I'm starting to get out of the loop on the Stern drives.
The above are from my experience. If I was going to buy one for myself, Cobalt would be at the top of my list.
The above are from my experience. If I was going to buy one for myself, Cobalt would be at the top of my list.
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