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Message
re: F150 Audio Upgrade
Posted on 10/9/14 at 2:06 pm to AlxTgr
Posted on 10/9/14 at 2:06 pm to AlxTgr
quote:
I've been wanting to upgrade for years, but scared to do it on my own. No one mentions this, but auto companies should never force us to remove the entire door panel just to replace a fricking speaker.
Front speakers on my f150 is just one small panel, pops off and on easy. Back doors were whole panel though. Had to take it off to figure out what was rattling when it was pretty new. Talk about nerve racking. Thought I was gonna destroy a panel on a 2 week old truck
Posted on 10/9/14 at 2:09 pm to Boats n Hose
Thanks for the responses (except for the "bass" guy ). That's pretty embarrassing.
I'll do some research based off of this info.
I have sync, which is the main reason I want to keep my head unit. Anybody total a newer model Lariat or King Ranch lately?
I'll do some research based off of this info.
I have sync, which is the main reason I want to keep my head unit. Anybody total a newer model Lariat or King Ranch lately?
Posted on 10/9/14 at 2:11 pm to Slickback
quote:
based off of this info.
As long as it's not bassed off bad info. Amirite
This post was edited on 10/9/14 at 2:16 pm
Posted on 10/9/14 at 2:11 pm to Slickback
You could order a Kicker auto kit for your truck. $320
LINK
This Package Includes the Following Items:
1 x Kicker 11KS68-N Car Audio 6x8" 5x7" 2-Way 120W KS Series Coaxial Speaker Pair
1 x Kicker 11KS68-N Car Audio 6x8" 5x7" 2-Way 120W KS Series Coaxial Speaker Pair
1 x Metra 72-5600 Speaker Adapter for Select Ford Vehicles
1 x Metra 72-5600 Speaker Adapter for Select Ford Vehicles
1 x Kicker ZX350.4 R 4-Channel Amp 350 Watts 2010 ZX Series (10ZX3504)
1 x Sound Quest By Stinger SQK8 600 Watt Amp Kit Blue
1 x Sound Quest by Stinger SQIB17 Car Audio Amp 17 Foot Stereo RCA Cable
LINK
This Package Includes the Following Items:
1 x Kicker 11KS68-N Car Audio 6x8" 5x7" 2-Way 120W KS Series Coaxial Speaker Pair
1 x Kicker 11KS68-N Car Audio 6x8" 5x7" 2-Way 120W KS Series Coaxial Speaker Pair
1 x Metra 72-5600 Speaker Adapter for Select Ford Vehicles
1 x Metra 72-5600 Speaker Adapter for Select Ford Vehicles
1 x Kicker ZX350.4 R 4-Channel Amp 350 Watts 2010 ZX Series (10ZX3504)
1 x Sound Quest By Stinger SQK8 600 Watt Amp Kit Blue
1 x Sound Quest by Stinger SQIB17 Car Audio Amp 17 Foot Stereo RCA Cable
Posted on 10/9/14 at 2:15 pm to Hu_Flung_Pu
quote:
As long as it's no bassed off bad info
Posted on 10/9/14 at 2:19 pm to AlxTgr
quote:
Is there anywhere in La. that can do this kind of thing and not rape you?
Not likely. Those places are full of rape. However, if you buy enough you may be able to get them to install for free. But that means you got raped on the price.
That Ford audio kit looks pretty cool, wonder how hard that is to install?
Cheers > Seinfeld...there's really no debate.
Posted on 10/9/14 at 2:23 pm to DownSouthDave
quote:
That Ford audio kit looks pretty cool, wonder how much somebody would charge to install?
I work around a couple car audio shops. I may go ride by on lunch and get some price quotes.
Posted on 10/9/14 at 3:54 pm to Slickback
The line level converters mentioned work well, but if you're really wanting to get great sound from a factory head unit you need something like a JL Clean Sweep. You won't need the line level converters if you get one of these and your sound quality will be nicer. If you're wanting some not over the top bass, like a single 10", check out Fox Acoustics site. It's a guy in Houma, makes awesome boxes that are very discreet.
Posted on 10/9/14 at 4:02 pm to Slickback
Throw some 15" L7's in there
Posted on 10/9/14 at 4:15 pm to MrCoachKlein
quote:
Throw some 15" L7's in there
Be straight bumping some Turnpike.
Posted on 10/29/14 at 4:07 pm to Slickback
Email me want to ask you a question mine is armandsmith@bellsouth.net
Posted on 10/29/14 at 7:37 pm to smit2777
I used to have a car audio shop. Audio upgrades are really easy to do. It's all about what you want to do & how much money u want to spend.
I have done everything from simple jobs like head unit replacements & door speaker upgrades to putting 6 12's in an extended cab silverado.
The most common problem that i used to get is that guys were wanting to install some huge amplifiers and run 6 15's but did not want to spend the money to do it properly.
I once did a build on a 98 model ext cab s-10 with 1 kicker solo x 12 on a kicker 2500.1, 4 sets of components on a kicker 1000.4 but ran it off a stock alternator with the stock battery. It would bump for about 5 minutes then the power drain would kill the motor.
I also did 8 kicker comp 12's walled up in the ext cab of a silverado on a rockford power T1000, also with stock alternator. It knocked so hard it was freaking insane. the difference is that the charging system could handle it on this system.
Having said all that, what you guys are talking about is no where near the nonsense mentioned above. If you want to keep your factory radio but you want to install an amp, all you need is a LOC (line output converter) also known as a line level converter. That will allow you to get some rca outputs off of your stock radio.
I still have most of my old accounts open & i can order about 95% of the stuff on the market. JL audio is hit or miss depending on their stock but I can get pretty much anything else. I'm a big fan of kicker & rockford fosgate & i can still get both brands with no problems.
If you guys want to put together a list of stuff I could possibly get a group buy sort of thing going. If I order a bunch of stuff all at once, it's actually cheaper for me to go to houston & pick it up. i get prefab boxes dirt cheap direct from the manufacturer but i can do custom builds also.
This was in the bed of my old F-150:
The 6 L7 12's in the silverado:
I have done everything from simple jobs like head unit replacements & door speaker upgrades to putting 6 12's in an extended cab silverado.
The most common problem that i used to get is that guys were wanting to install some huge amplifiers and run 6 15's but did not want to spend the money to do it properly.
I once did a build on a 98 model ext cab s-10 with 1 kicker solo x 12 on a kicker 2500.1, 4 sets of components on a kicker 1000.4 but ran it off a stock alternator with the stock battery. It would bump for about 5 minutes then the power drain would kill the motor.
I also did 8 kicker comp 12's walled up in the ext cab of a silverado on a rockford power T1000, also with stock alternator. It knocked so hard it was freaking insane. the difference is that the charging system could handle it on this system.
Having said all that, what you guys are talking about is no where near the nonsense mentioned above. If you want to keep your factory radio but you want to install an amp, all you need is a LOC (line output converter) also known as a line level converter. That will allow you to get some rca outputs off of your stock radio.
I still have most of my old accounts open & i can order about 95% of the stuff on the market. JL audio is hit or miss depending on their stock but I can get pretty much anything else. I'm a big fan of kicker & rockford fosgate & i can still get both brands with no problems.
If you guys want to put together a list of stuff I could possibly get a group buy sort of thing going. If I order a bunch of stuff all at once, it's actually cheaper for me to go to houston & pick it up. i get prefab boxes dirt cheap direct from the manufacturer but i can do custom builds also.
This was in the bed of my old F-150:
The 6 L7 12's in the silverado:
This post was edited on 10/29/14 at 7:39 pm
Posted on 10/29/14 at 7:47 pm to jsmoke222000
Thanks. I still haven't figured out exactly which way I want to go. I'd like maybe one sub, but not 100% necessary. I'd like to stay in the $1000 range.
Posted on 10/29/14 at 8:08 pm to AlxTgr
I used to mess around with car audio a lot and my experience is, go ahead and replace the deck. Aftermarket decks just have much better EQs and sound quality IMHO.
And yes, factory upgrades are usually a Bitch to upgrade.
And yes, factory upgrades are usually a Bitch to upgrade.
Posted on 10/29/14 at 8:19 pm to SportTiger1
I think a sub is a must for good sound quality but that's just me. I have pioneer DVD unit with two 10's under back seat. Factory door speaks and aftermarket tweeters. Sounds pretty good for $600, installed my self
Posted on 10/29/14 at 9:53 pm to SportTiger1
How does this look...
- 2 pairs of Rockford Fosgate Punch 6x8s for the doors $55/pair
LINK
- AudioControl LC2I 2-Channel Line Out Convertor - $74 (this is the one item I'm least sure about
LINK
- Recommendations for a good amp to push the 4 6x8s? (they range from $40 - $2000 and I don't know what exactly I need, any suggestions are appreciated. Looking on Amazon, because I have free shipping and no tax)
Can I have one amp that will power the door speakers and a small sub, or can I go from the line out converter to a pre-powered sub?
- 2 pairs of Rockford Fosgate Punch 6x8s for the doors $55/pair
LINK
- AudioControl LC2I 2-Channel Line Out Convertor - $74 (this is the one item I'm least sure about
LINK
- Recommendations for a good amp to push the 4 6x8s? (they range from $40 - $2000 and I don't know what exactly I need, any suggestions are appreciated. Looking on Amazon, because I have free shipping and no tax)
Can I have one amp that will power the door speakers and a small sub, or can I go from the line out converter to a pre-powered sub?
Posted on 10/29/14 at 10:02 pm to Slickback
You can get a line out converter from Radio Shack for like $10 for the sub, and power the door speakers from the factory head unit
If you want it all, get a JL amp or similar that is 5 channel (4 speaker + 1 sub) and run that off of the $10 line out converter. Gotta rewire speakers though
If you want it all, get a JL amp or similar that is 5 channel (4 speaker + 1 sub) and run that off of the $10 line out converter. Gotta rewire speakers though
Posted on 10/29/14 at 10:48 pm to Slickback
I have the JL HD 900/5 in my 2012 supercrew, pushing 4 door speakers and a 10" sub. Sounds amazing, I highly recommend it. It's small as shite too considering the power its putting out. LINK
ETA: also if you wanna get a bit more quality out of your sound, I would do a component set in the front rather than the coaxial.
ETA: also if you wanna get a bit more quality out of your sound, I would do a component set in the front rather than the coaxial.
This post was edited on 10/29/14 at 11:09 pm
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