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Staining or finishing an antique wood piece? Bumped for advice.

Posted on 9/19/16 at 8:21 am
Posted by LSU alum wannabe
Katy, TX
Member since Jan 2004
26964 posts
Posted on 9/19/16 at 8:21 am
It's my grandmas old side board. I already stripped it. Used one of the wood stripper products.

Wondering what you guys have used with best results for a stain or varnish.

Anybody use gel products?

This post was edited on 10/18/16 at 2:44 pm
Posted by ItzMe1972
Member since Dec 2013
9778 posts
Posted on 9/19/16 at 8:23 am to
I always use Minwax stains. Gel would be fine.

Then finish off with tung oil, which is applied with a cloth.

What kind of wood? Pictures?
Posted by LNCHBOX
70448
Member since Jun 2009
84062 posts
Posted on 9/19/16 at 8:24 am to
I used this stuff to make stain new counter tops that I built for my kitchen Minwax 70012 1 Quart Wood Finish Interior Wood Stain

It's worked well for me.
Posted by LSU alum wannabe
Katy, TX
Member since Jan 2004
26964 posts
Posted on 9/19/16 at 8:31 am to
At work. I will try pics later. But always spotty with pics for me.

Wood appears to be 2-3 types. Or perhaps just age. Oak, cherry, mohagany, my guess.

One piece has a dark color to it. Like a weathered piece of fence or decking.

The thing is probably near 100. Mom is 63 and remember it her entire life, and it was always referred to as antique in her lifetime.
Posted by CoachChappy
Member since May 2013
32514 posts
Posted on 9/19/16 at 8:43 am to
Use Minwax Helmsman SPAR varnish. Your furniture will survive the next flood.

LINK
Posted by Atom Knab
Baton Rouge
Member since Nov 2013
361 posts
Posted on 9/19/16 at 8:58 am to
If they are different types of wood, be prepared for them to take stain differently.

I hate when people paint furniture, especially antiques... But sometimes if the mixture of wood is too diverse, it would look better painted. Imo.
Posted by LSU alum wannabe
Katy, TX
Member since Jan 2004
26964 posts
Posted on 9/19/16 at 9:03 am to
quote:

I hate when people paint furniture, especially antiques... But sometimes if the mixture of wood is too diverse, it would look better painted. Imo.



Yep. Not painting.

I would have never guessed the differences in the woods before.

We wanted it to be a little lighter than it is going to need to be. But I understand it will need to be slightly darker than the darkest piece to look right.
Posted by ItzMe1972
Member since Dec 2013
9778 posts
Posted on 9/19/16 at 9:13 am to
I doubt it is that many different woods. Old varnish and stain typically darken with age.

Golden oak stain gives it a honey finish.
Posted by RustyTiger
Daytona Beach, FL
Member since Jul 2005
958 posts
Posted on 9/19/16 at 9:38 am to
If you want the best get OLD MASTERS GEL.
Posted by SirSaintly
Uptown, New Orleans
Member since Feb 2013
3131 posts
Posted on 9/19/16 at 10:50 am to
Don't use the crap stains they sell at HD or Lowe's. I usually use General Finishes stains, but any paint store is going to have higher quality stains than your big box stores.
Don't use a gel stain. Those things are basically like paint. They just sit on top of the wood and don't penetrate the wood.

Watch youtube tutorials and research.

Posted by LSU alum wannabe
Katy, TX
Member since Jan 2004
26964 posts
Posted on 9/28/16 at 10:51 am to
Bump.

Been trying to find a gel stain Brazilian Rosewood example. A YouTube video of something actually done in that color. It just has a nice dark color but not too dark.

And why not a gel stain? I am looking at min wax. It sounds like paint in the can and not a true gel like some products. If left on per the instruction? It should penetrate.
Posted by SirSaintly
Uptown, New Orleans
Member since Feb 2013
3131 posts
Posted on 9/28/16 at 12:17 pm to
quote:

And why not a gel stain? I am looking at min wax. It sounds like paint in the can and not a true gel like some products. If left on per the instruction? It should penetrate.


Direct quote from wood magazine, ... "Applying a gel stain to wood is like spreading peanut butter onto bread. The peanut butter sticks, but it doesn't penetrate the porous surface of the bread. ... And, because gel stains don't penetrate as well as thin-bodied stains, they don't bring out the "depth" of the wood grain as well as thin-bodied stains."

Gel stains are fine for crap wood like pine b/c pine stains blotchy and uneven. Gel stain is like a paint, so it wont be blotchy, but it does not penetrate the wood(I don't care what Minwax's can says), it just lays on top. It will cover up the wood grain, which is what gives old wood furniture its character. See if you have a Rockler hardware or something similar and talk with experienced stainers/woodworkers and not Joe Blow at Home Depot who probably knows less than you.
Posted by Phil A Sheo
equinsu ocha
Member since Aug 2011
12166 posts
Posted on 9/28/16 at 12:29 pm to
I build furniture as a hobby. I use a lot of minwax products as well as varathane poly.. I stay away from gel stains.
Posted by Polar Pop
Member since Feb 2012
10748 posts
Posted on 9/28/16 at 12:32 pm to
Just to give you an idea

I re-stained my shutters a while back using a penetrating/wiping stain from Old Masters (American Walnut) and 2 coats of sealant.

I figured since the sun beats on them all day, I would use the penetrating stain vs. the gel stain so they didnt peel over time, only fade.

I will more than likely have to do them again in a few years.

Before:



Sanded:



After:



The penetrating stain does make the pine a little splotchy, so I would just apply a small amount (2-3" diameter circle) then wipe that and spread it as much as i could, adding until I got the desired color.

Make sure you keep your stain mixed. I did not do that and I got to the bottom of the can, stained one shutter and it was damn near black. Sanded what I could and just roughed in areas to fix it.



Posted by LSU alum wannabe
Katy, TX
Member since Jan 2004
26964 posts
Posted on 9/28/16 at 1:00 pm to
quote:

penetrating/wiping stain from Old Masters (American Walnut) and 2 coats of sealant.


Difference between a gel stain and "penetrating wiping". I assumed wiping stain was just a thinner gel stain? But not full liquid like regular stuff?

This is a project I do not mind taking time on, I just know I've splotched up and tried to blend in cabinets before?


I have a couple more cabinets to practice on though. I might use those.
Posted by Polar Pop
Member since Feb 2012
10748 posts
Posted on 9/28/16 at 1:03 pm to
The stain I used was pure liquid.

I applied it with a foam brush. It didnt take much at all. By the time I got it down, I would just slap a little on and wipe the hell out of it in a large circle with an old t-shirt.
Posted by LSU alum wannabe
Katy, TX
Member since Jan 2004
26964 posts
Posted on 9/30/16 at 12:57 pm to


Testing....
Posted by LSU alum wannabe
Katy, TX
Member since Jan 2004
26964 posts
Posted on 9/30/16 at 12:58 pm to
Attempting to post pic



#2

Woohoo. This is a before shot of a caniten door and changes in wood.
This post was edited on 9/30/16 at 1:03 pm
Posted by LSU alum wannabe
Katy, TX
Member since Jan 2004
26964 posts
Posted on 9/30/16 at 1:05 pm to


Drawer face.
This post was edited on 9/30/16 at 1:06 pm
Posted by LSU alum wannabe
Katy, TX
Member since Jan 2004
26964 posts
Posted on 9/30/16 at 1:13 pm to




Back of same cabinet door.

Left red mahogany and right Brazilian rosewood gel stain.
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