Started By
Message

re: PC Discussion - Gaming, Performance and Enthusiasts

Posted on 9/22/15 at 6:27 pm to
Posted by ILikeLSUToo
Central, LA
Member since Jan 2008
18018 posts
Posted on 9/22/15 at 6:27 pm to
Need more details. You installed on an SSD, right? And Windows 10 doesn't see your secondary hard drive?

It could be that you have it plugged into a non-native SATA port and Windows 10 didn't fully port the drivers for that SATA controller? Don't remember what board you have, but they often have one or two SATA ports that use a non-native controller like Marvell.
Posted by DoUrden
UnderDark
Member since Oct 2011
25965 posts
Posted on 9/22/15 at 6:38 pm to
Fixed it, it shows as a "foreign" disk, i imported it and now it shows.
This post was edited on 9/22/15 at 6:46 pm
Posted by Ace Midnight
Between sanity and madness
Member since Dec 2006
89513 posts
Posted on 9/23/15 at 11:46 am to
quote:

ILikeLSUToo


Okay - got an i7 shipping from one of Tigerdirect's affiliates - ~$325.

So, now I can't find the memory I picked out - so what am I looking at, 2 sticks or 4 for Z170? 2666 or 3000? Is latency (like the g.skill 15-15-15 stuff), overall, better spent money than raw speed?

Should I just back order the 2x8gb 24000 g.skill kit from Newegg at $139 and be done with it? MB will be Asus Z170-A, if that matters.
Posted by UltimateHog
Oregon
Member since Dec 2011
65801 posts
Posted on 9/23/15 at 12:31 pm to
Posted by ILikeLSUToo
Central, LA
Member since Jan 2008
18018 posts
Posted on 9/23/15 at 12:33 pm to
quote:

so what am I looking at, 2 sticks or 4 for Z170?


2 sticks are better than 4 when overclocking the CPU (and Z170 isn't quad channel). Puts a little less load on the mobo and mem controller.

quote:

Is latency (like the g.skill 15-15-15 stuff), overall, better spent money than raw speed?


You have to consider frequency and latency together. For simplicity's sake, just look at CAS latency. CAS Latency is represented by clock cycles, and frequency dictates how fast those clock cycles occur.

Use this formula to convert CAS latency to nanoseconds:

CAS/Frequency (2000)

So, DDR4-2666 CL15..... 15/2666 (2000) = 11.25ns

Notice, then, that DDR4-2800 CL16 is actually a hair slower.

It seems like the DDR4-3000 CL15 kits are a good value right now at the $130 mark. If you want to spend less than $130, you might as well just grab a 2666 or 2800 kit with a CL of 15.

quote:

just get these and call it a day

Seconded
This post was edited on 9/23/15 at 12:35 pm
Posted by Ace Midnight
Between sanity and madness
Member since Dec 2006
89513 posts
Posted on 9/23/15 at 12:46 pm to
quote:

Seconded


Thanks guys - for whatever reason, they didn't come up in the search - the "red" g.skill (Ripjaws V) are showing backordered when you search for z170. This set linked that both of y'all recommend "only" say X99 (Ripjaws 4), but the very first review shows a Z170 motherboard.

So, is the whole "optimized for 6th generation" tag for the Vs from g.skill is just marketing or anything to consider at all?

Posted by ILikeLSUToo
Central, LA
Member since Jan 2008
18018 posts
Posted on 9/23/15 at 12:52 pm to
Marketing
Posted by Tom288
Jacksonville
Member since Apr 2009
20986 posts
Posted on 9/23/15 at 3:14 pm to
I contacted Corsair after my CPU temps have still been running hot (H100i on a 4770k) and they approved an RMA. Their customer service is good, not only were they fast but I didn't even request an RMA yet in my original support ticket.

So I've got to remove the H100i to ship it. In the meantime I've got an old Hyper 212 that I was going to use until I get the replacement unit back from Corsair. It's not an overclocked system, so I'm assuming that should be fine, hell it should be better than what I'm currently getting I suspect.

A few days ago I unmounted the radiator and fans and cleaned them out, there were a couple of spots with some sizable dust buildup, and I adjusted the block to make sure it was in proper contact with the CPU. I didn't have any thermal paste to apply, so it's still the original stuff. In any case, it hasn't made a difference.

As for fully removing the H100i and installing the Hyper 212, it should be pretty straight forward right? Unmount the fans at the top, unscrew the block and take it off and pull the unit out. Then just put the new mounting kit from the 212 on and mount the fan. Anything I'm missing?

ETA: On an unrelated note, what browser does everyone run here? I've always used Chrome and prefer it to Firefox, but I'm getting kind of tired at it being a such a memory hog. Might look back into Firefox, have also considered giving Opera a shot. Anyone here not using Chrome and, if so, what's your go-to browser?
This post was edited on 9/23/15 at 3:34 pm
Posted by ILikeLSUToo
Central, LA
Member since Jan 2008
18018 posts
Posted on 9/23/15 at 3:57 pm to
quote:

Then just put the new mounting kit from the 212 on and mount the fan. Anything I'm missing?


The hyper 212 has its own rear bracket. Case makers have been pretty good about providing access behind the motherboard tray via a cut-out, but some cases aren't designed that way and require you to remove the motherboard to mount a new cooler. I had a cooler master Haf 932 full tower that had a mobo tray cutout, but it was off center from the motherboard socket, rendering the cutout useless.

quote:

what browser does everyone run here?


Chrome, but lately having to use Edge or Firefox for certain work-related functions like webmail, because Chrome removed silverlight support.
This post was edited on 9/23/15 at 3:59 pm
Posted by Tom288
Jacksonville
Member since Apr 2009
20986 posts
Posted on 9/23/15 at 4:12 pm to
I've got a Corsair 760t that gives me easy access to the rear bracket so I don't think it should give me any trouble.

I'm currently running the H100i in push/pull with 4 SP120's, then another fan as an exhaust in the rear and two SP140's as intake in the front. With the H100i running as an exhaust already, would there be any point to switching the rear exhaust into an intake? Or use the H100i as an intake when I get it back? I'm also thinking about getting rid of two of the fans and just using two SP120's with the cooler. I haven't overclocked the CPU or anything.

Basically, once I get a replacement unit, would you recommend leaving the setup as is, or making any changes to optimize cooling?

This is it currently as far as cooling setup is concerned:
Posted by ILikeLSUToo
Central, LA
Member since Jan 2008
18018 posts
Posted on 9/23/15 at 6:10 pm to
How dusty is the interior of the case? Since you aren't overclocking, dust reduction would be the only reason I'd change fan directions. If the case is well filtered, positive pressure is better for dust reduction.
Posted by Tom288
Jacksonville
Member since Apr 2009
20986 posts
Posted on 9/23/15 at 6:15 pm to
It's not dusty at all, I routinely go in and clean it out. However, with my current setup (H100i and the rear fan acting as an exhaust) doesn't that mean it's not in a positive pressure configuration? Wouldn't I need to either use the H100i or the rear fan as an intake to achieve positive pressure?

Also, my room stays relatively cool and the air that does come out of the exhausts is pretty cool? If that's the case would it not be better to use the H100i as an intake to get cool air flowing directly onto the components and leave the rear fan in the back of the case as an exhaust? Or use that as an intake and leave the H100i as an exhaust? I'd have to use one of them as an intake instead of an exhaust to achieve positive pressure, right?
Posted by oR33Do
Tuscaloosa
Member since Oct 2012
13561 posts
Posted on 9/23/15 at 6:32 pm to
Is that the case you use too? Kinda cool how the SSDs fit in there. I have the Corsair Spec-01 and all they offer is putting the SSDs in the 3.5in slot on the tray or buying an adapter. I bought a sabrent adapter off Amazon that will let me put two SSDs in one 3.5in slot.

Posted by Tom288
Jacksonville
Member since Apr 2009
20986 posts
Posted on 9/23/15 at 7:05 pm to
Yeah that's the case. My two SSD drives mount on the side and I removed the expansion cages at the bottom for more airflow since I don't have any traditional hard drives installed.
Posted by ILikeLSUToo
Central, LA
Member since Jan 2008
18018 posts
Posted on 9/23/15 at 7:39 pm to
quote:

Wouldn't I need to either use the H100i or the rear fan as an intake to achieve positive pressure?


Yeah, you are currently using negative pressure, which is why I asked about dust. Negative pressure tends to be a dust magnet because it pulls air from the cracks/vents/holes in the case, which aren't filtered. If your dust situation is fine, no big deal. I keep mine PC on the carpeted floor, so I use very positive pressure to keep the dust out. The drawback is I'm usually vacuuming my case filters once a week. Your environment might not be as dusty as mine.

quote:

Also, my room stays relatively cool and the air that does come out of the exhausts is pretty cool? If that's the case would it not be better to use the H100i as an intake to get cool air flowing directly onto the components and leave the rear fan in the back of the case as an exhaust? Or use that as an intake and leave the H100i as an exhaust?


Yes, outside air pulled through the radiator would probably result in a cooler CPU, but the few degree difference ultimately doesn't mean much for you since you're at stock. The drawback being that more warm air is dumped into your case faster, and may affect other components, but probably not in any meaningful way. If you want to go positive pressure, give it a shot. It's the generally preferred setup in a well-filtered system. But if you notice the dust buildup is worse with positive pressure, it wouldn't hurt to bring it back to negative pressure. Main thing you want to do is make sure dust doesn't build up between those radiator fins. I have to clean mine out every few months (or when I think about it) in my push-pull radiator.
Posted by Tom288
Jacksonville
Member since Apr 2009
20986 posts
Posted on 9/23/15 at 7:51 pm to
quote:

Yes, outside air pulled through the radiator would probably result in a cooler CPU, but the few degree difference ultimately doesn't mean much for you since you're at stock. The drawback being that more warm air is dumped into your case faster, and may affect other components, but probably not in any meaningful way. If you want to go positive pressure, give it a shot. It's the generally preferred setup in a well-filtered system. But if you notice the dust buildup is worse with positive pressure, it wouldn't hurt to bring it back to negative pressure. Main thing you want to do is make sure dust doesn't build up between those radiator fins. I have to clean mine out every few months (or when I think about it) in my push-pull radiator.


It's on a wood floor, but dust buildup hasn't been too bad. With that said, there was two or three good clumps of dust in between one of the fans and the radiator when I cleaned it. I may give positive pressure a try, this little incident has upped my focus on keeping my CPU cool. All of my other components are in the 20's, so I don't think they'd really be affected that much. If I do try positive pressure, or even if I stick with negative, you think I should stick with 4 fans running push/pull rather than going down to two?
Posted by ILikeLSUToo
Central, LA
Member since Jan 2008
18018 posts
Posted on 9/23/15 at 8:35 pm to
Since you aren't overclocking, 2 would be fine if you find that to be more manageable in terms of maintenance. I'm considering taking half the fans off my push-pull rad myself, to make it easier to blow out dust. Don't stress too much over CPU temps, especially idle temps (which are usually inaccurately read by software anyway). As long as load temps are under 80 (and it'll be considerably lower than that once you get a working cooler).
Posted by Ace Midnight
Between sanity and madness
Member since Dec 2006
89513 posts
Posted on 9/24/15 at 8:27 am to
ILike- I have everything but the CPU cooler and a spinner (if I'm even going to go there, initially) ordered.

I can't find a whole lot of early reports on cooling solutions. We've talked AIO and air - I'm leaning back towards an aircooler, like the Noctua 15. Having recently swapped in Hyper 212 Evo into an old build - how easy is the install on the Noctuas? And how many case fans do you recommend for the Fractal (I think it comes with 2)?

This will be my first case with a filter, so I'm already prepping for that chore.
Posted by ILikeLSUToo
Central, LA
Member since Jan 2008
18018 posts
Posted on 9/24/15 at 10:59 am to
If you can install a Hyper 212, you can install a noctua. They're all similar (in the sense that you'll be dealing with screws and brackets). NH-D15 is a good cooler, but just make sure you've got enough clearance for RAM. Watch some videos of the cooler being installed and you'll see what I'm talking about.

As for how many fans, that's up to you. See how your temps are with the stock fan configuration and go from there.
Posted by DoUrden
UnderDark
Member since Oct 2011
25965 posts
Posted on 9/24/15 at 11:08 am to
nVidia screwed up some older games with their driver updates a few months back and it seems they aren't going to fix it. I wanted to do another Bishock play and the game has no sound, after some research it's only with nVidia cards which doesn't make sense how a video card affects sound, but the Steam forums show that AMD card users have no issues.
first pageprev pagePage 1107 of 1887Next pagelast page

Back to top
logoFollow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News
Follow us on Twitter, Facebook and Instagram to get the latest updates on LSU Football and Recruiting.

FacebookTwitterInstagram