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re: Homebrewing: In-Process Thread
Posted on 1/22/16 at 9:25 am to AubieALUMdvm
Posted on 1/22/16 at 9:25 am to AubieALUMdvm
quote:
So this was my follow-up if you all had said racking was not necessary. So I would just toss the hops into the carboy, put my cap/airlock back on and just leave it? If that works I'll try it.
I think this is a big personal preference. I have heard that it is better to dry hop in primary where yeast can help drive off some of the O2. Then I had the owner of LA Homebrew tell me that it completely diminishes the taste of the hops to dry hop in primary. I have never felt that putting them in the primary was a problem. And since I am lazy and don't want to risk oxidation or bacteria infection, I just go straight in primary.
1
Posted on 1/22/16 at 9:35 am to Fratastic423
Well I'm sold - ill give it a try and compare it to the current batch that will be going to a secondary since I need my primary bucket on brew days.
Sorry, another question: now that I won't be using this bucket as a primary and will just leave my gallon batches in the 1 gallon jugs (until bottling) would it make sense for me to pitch my yeast into the kettle (after cooling of course) so I can get it really stirred up and then rack into the 1 gallon jug? It's just really easy to stir up that wort in an open container using a sanitized whisk.
Sorry, another question: now that I won't be using this bucket as a primary and will just leave my gallon batches in the 1 gallon jugs (until bottling) would it make sense for me to pitch my yeast into the kettle (after cooling of course) so I can get it really stirred up and then rack into the 1 gallon jug? It's just really easy to stir up that wort in an open container using a sanitized whisk.
This post was edited on 1/22/16 at 9:55 am
Posted on 1/22/16 at 9:42 am to AubieALUMdvm
I've always just pitched the rehydrated yeast / starter on top. I've never stirred it into the wort. It all gradually drops to the bottom anyway.
I assume you're using dry yeast since you are brewing 1 gallon batches? If so, I'd just dry pitch it on top of wort after racking to the carboy.
I assume you're using dry yeast since you are brewing 1 gallon batches? If so, I'd just dry pitch it on top of wort after racking to the carboy.
This post was edited on 1/22/16 at 9:43 am
Posted on 1/22/16 at 10:07 am to AubieALUMdvm
quote:
Sorry, another question
Do not be sorry that you have questions. That's what the board is for. Hell, many of us have been doing this for close to a decade and we still have questions.
I would just put the yeast into the fermentor. I would be worried that I would manage to leave yeast behind in the kettle if it didnt get incorporated.
Posted on 1/22/16 at 10:12 am to Fratastic423
quote:
Do not be sorry that you have questions. That's what the board is for. Hell, many of us have been doing this for close to a decade and we still have questions.
and it gives me something to do besides work.
Posted on 1/22/16 at 10:57 am to LSUGrad00
True story
Posted on 1/22/16 at 10:58 am to Fratastic423
I've read that a common mistake new brewers make is that they don't get the yeast started properly via aeration. I would think this is accomplished when you make your starter solution for the large batches but for my set up I'd be worried that they wouldn't get the oxygen if I just dumped it in and left it. Am I incorrect in my assumption that you really get the yeast kicking in the yeast rehydration process/start solution creation?
I observed a much slower start to airlock bubbling when I didn't whisk very much in the first batch. In my second batch I whisked the crap out of it and it was like a party in there after only 8-12 hours. Not sure if them being different recipes (amber vs IPA) made a difference.
I observed a much slower start to airlock bubbling when I didn't whisk very much in the first batch. In my second batch I whisked the crap out of it and it was like a party in there after only 8-12 hours. Not sure if them being different recipes (amber vs IPA) made a difference.
This post was edited on 1/22/16 at 11:01 am
Posted on 1/22/16 at 11:20 am to AubieALUMdvm
With dry yeast it is valuable to re-hydrate the yeast before pitching. that helps out a ton with how fast the beer takes off. Stirring certainly can add O2 however in order to make a big different you have to stir/shake for much longer than you would think. Adding O2 to wort aids in yeast propagation, which is what you are doing when making a starter. So if you do not make a starter (which for most beers is fine), then adding O2 is beneficial unless you pitch a ton of yeast. If you make a starter then adding O2 to your finished wort is unnecessary in my opinion.
Sanitation and fermentation temps are the two biggest flaws of new brewers that result in crappy beer.
Sanitation and fermentation temps are the two biggest flaws of new brewers that result in crappy beer.
This post was edited on 1/22/16 at 11:21 am
Posted on 1/22/16 at 11:24 am to AubieALUMdvm
I think you may be mixing/asking about two different concepts.
1) Rehydrating your dry yeast.
If using dry yeast, I always rehydrate. It may make zero difference in the finished beer, but when yeast cells are rehydrating they cannot control what crosses the cell membrane. When you rehydrate with warm water they rehydrate properly and are ready to go. When you simply pitch on top of the wort you lose approximately 50% of your yeast cells bc the influx of sugared water into the essentially acts as a toxin.
All that said, you are brewing 1 gallon batches and chances are that unless you severely under pitch, you won't notice much of a difference.
2) Aerating your wort?
I always aerate my wort after the boil. In my experience it will make a noticeable difference in both your FG and your fermentation start time.
I use bottled oxygen with a diffusion stone, others pour vigorously into the bucket or carboy, those who have great health insurance or just want to see blood shake full 6 gallon carboys.
If I were brewing 1 gallon batches, I would just shake the crap out of the carboy before pitching the yeast.
1) Rehydrating your dry yeast.
If using dry yeast, I always rehydrate. It may make zero difference in the finished beer, but when yeast cells are rehydrating they cannot control what crosses the cell membrane. When you rehydrate with warm water they rehydrate properly and are ready to go. When you simply pitch on top of the wort you lose approximately 50% of your yeast cells bc the influx of sugared water into the essentially acts as a toxin.
All that said, you are brewing 1 gallon batches and chances are that unless you severely under pitch, you won't notice much of a difference.
2) Aerating your wort?
I always aerate my wort after the boil. In my experience it will make a noticeable difference in both your FG and your fermentation start time.
I use bottled oxygen with a diffusion stone, others pour vigorously into the bucket or carboy, those who have great health insurance or just want to see blood shake full 6 gallon carboys.
If I were brewing 1 gallon batches, I would just shake the crap out of the carboy before pitching the yeast.
Posted on 1/22/16 at 11:31 am to AubieALUMdvm
quote:
now that I won't be using this bucket as a primary and will just leave my gallon batches in the 1 gallon jugs (until bottling) would it make sense for me to pitch my yeast into the kettle (after cooling of course) so I can get it really stirred up and then rack into the 1 gallon jug? It's just really easy to stir up that wort in an open container using a sanitized whisk.
Just bitch in the fermenter and shake it up. Get a funnel and pour it in the fermenter (i'm assuming a 1 gallon glass carboy) put some saran wrap with some starsan sprayed on it, on the opening and shake it up for a few seconds. You'll get some O2 in there as you shake it. My method is i pitch the yeast, saran wrap the top, shake the 6 gallon carboy (on a sturdy surface and not near the ledge) then take off the saran wrap. Let it sit a few seconds, and repeat a couple times, then put the airlock on.
I use yeast starters for every single batch i do. I've done so since batch #4 about 3 or 4 years ago. I'm now on batch 33 or 34. Ever since i went to starters, i've never worried about getting fermentation. Only time i was concerned was my first lager because of the increased pitching rates, and after 3 days it kicked off and finished at the target FG. I worry even less when i got my stir plate. Now for a 1 gallon batch, a starter really isn't necessary, but if you step up to 5 gallons, definitely do starters.
Oh, and if you are getting into brewing, look into getting beersmith.
This post was edited on 1/22/16 at 11:36 am
Posted on 1/22/16 at 11:38 am to Fratastic423
OK, this is helpful - thanks guys for the tips and clarification
I think I'm pretty good on sanitation. Since I've had to maintain sterility for surgery in my job the sanitation procedures have come naturally. My ferm temps are probably a bit lower than most (61 degrees right now) but my yeast packet says this is still in the appropriate range so hopefully they aren't going dormant on me
quote:
Sanitation and fermentation temps are the two biggest flaws of new brewers that result in crappy beer.
I think I'm pretty good on sanitation. Since I've had to maintain sterility for surgery in my job the sanitation procedures have come naturally. My ferm temps are probably a bit lower than most (61 degrees right now) but my yeast packet says this is still in the appropriate range so hopefully they aren't going dormant on me
Posted on 1/22/16 at 11:40 am to LSUGrad00
quote:
others pour vigorously into the bucket or carboy, those who have great health insurance or just want to see blood shake full 6 gallon carboys.
I don't recall seeing you at my house on brew day.
I open my ball valve on my kettle from a table, and let it pour into a wire mesh strainer and a plastic funnel with strainer into the carboy. It gets some good oxygenation at this step, then i tempt fate and shake the shite out of the carboy. Haven't murdered myself yet...
Posted on 1/22/16 at 11:50 am to AubieALUMdvm
quote:
My ferm temps are probably a bit lower than most (61 degrees right now) but my yeast packet says this is still in the appropriate range so hopefully they aren't going dormant on me
My take on it, is that healthy yeast is the most important factor in making beer. That being said, factors leading to healthy yeast are more than 1.
1) Pitching rates. Did i pitch enough yeast cells? If you're doing 1 gallon, you shouldn't have anything to worry about, as you yeast packets contain more than enough cells to ferment fully.
2) Wort oxygenation. Again with your batch sizes, simply shaking the fermenter will do.
3) Fermentation temps. Personally, the goal would be to be between 65-70 (depending on strain, but most ale yeast is happy in this range). If you are getting fermentation, great. But if you can, try to find a spot where you can boost your temps a little. Your yeast will be happier.
Also, i will say, you have to try really hard or be really careless to infect your beer. When i first started brewing i was paranoid by making sure EVERYTHING was clean and sanitized. To a point where it kinda sucked the fun out of brewing. I used to be concerned that if i touched the wort after the boil, that it would be infected. But i've made some mistakes and dropped some things in the wort after the boil (dropped a dirty dish rag in one) and never had an infection. I say that, now i'll probably get one.
Posted on 1/22/16 at 1:14 pm to BugAC
quote:
BugAC
quote:
I worry even less
Posted on 1/22/16 at 1:24 pm to BugAC
quote:
dropped a dirty dish rag in one
Might be taking developing a 'house flavor' a little far Bug.
Posted on 1/22/16 at 9:42 pm to AubieALUMdvm
I'll throw my 2 cents in and agree with just about all that's been said. Yeast health and sanitation are very important and shouldn't be overlooked. It's not hard to achieve either, it just takes a little forethought and planning. RDWHAHB is also something that's very important, a lot of "oh shite" moments don't turn out nearly as bad as you think they will.
On another note. The last 2 IPAs I've brewed have been less than stellar, not sure why but they've lacked the bitterness I want from an IPA, they've had the fruitiness I want but the bite just wasn't there. I'm going to break in my new Brew-Boss system tomorrow and brew this IPA, recipe has been pieced together from several different recipes and my own tweaking :
5 gallon batch
11 lbs 8.0 oz Pale Malt (2 Row)
1 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L
12.0 oz Cara-Pils
12.0 oz Munich Malt - 10L
4.0 oz Wheat, Torrified
2.25 oz Apollo
2.00 oz Amarillo whirlpool
2.00 oz Citra whirlpool
2.00 oz Simcoe whirlpool
1.00 oz Centennial whirlpool
1.50 oz Amarillo Dry Hop
1.50 oz Citra Dry Hop
1.50 oz Simcoe Dry Hop
Thoughts or ideas on that recipe? I know it's not a sour but figured y'all were still good for some input Beersmith has an IBU of 102, which I'm hoping will give me the bitterness I'm looking for. There's a total of almost 14 oz of hops, all hopefully giving that citrusy, fruity, juicy taste I want out of this recipe.
On another note. The last 2 IPAs I've brewed have been less than stellar, not sure why but they've lacked the bitterness I want from an IPA, they've had the fruitiness I want but the bite just wasn't there. I'm going to break in my new Brew-Boss system tomorrow and brew this IPA, recipe has been pieced together from several different recipes and my own tweaking :
5 gallon batch
11 lbs 8.0 oz Pale Malt (2 Row)
1 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L
12.0 oz Cara-Pils
12.0 oz Munich Malt - 10L
4.0 oz Wheat, Torrified
2.25 oz Apollo
2.00 oz Amarillo whirlpool
2.00 oz Citra whirlpool
2.00 oz Simcoe whirlpool
1.00 oz Centennial whirlpool
1.50 oz Amarillo Dry Hop
1.50 oz Citra Dry Hop
1.50 oz Simcoe Dry Hop
Thoughts or ideas on that recipe? I know it's not a sour but figured y'all were still good for some input
Beersmith has an IBU of 102, which I'm hoping will give me the bitterness I'm looking for. There's a total of almost 14 oz of hops, all hopefully giving that citrusy, fruity, juicy taste I want out of this recipe. Posted on 1/23/16 at 10:42 am to I_heart_beer
quote:
The last 2 IPAs I've brewed have been less than stellar, not sure why but they've lacked the bitterness I want from an IPA
Are you doing anything with your water?
That recipe looks good, but I get a better perceived bitterness when I bump my sulfates to over 100ppm.
Posted on 1/23/16 at 11:04 am to LSUGrad00
Wicked Weed's DIPA water
quote:
200ppm sulphates
50ppm chloride
100ppm calcium
Posted on 1/23/16 at 11:37 am to s14suspense
My last IPA I adjusted my water to:
Just under 100 ppm sulfates
45 ppm chloride
100 ppm calcium
I'll bump up sulfate this batch and hopefully that'll help. Thanks.
Just under 100 ppm sulfates
45 ppm chloride
100 ppm calcium
I'll bump up sulfate this batch and hopefully that'll help. Thanks.
Posted on 1/23/16 at 12:41 pm to I_heart_beer
Made adjustments in Bru'n Water to get to:
186 ppm sulfates
57 ppm chlorides
104 ppm calcium
We'll see how it turns out.
186 ppm sulfates
57 ppm chlorides
104 ppm calcium
We'll see how it turns out.
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