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Started By
Message
House is flooded, need advice for wood floors
Posted on 8/14/16 at 8:35 pm
Posted on 8/14/16 at 8:35 pm
We have a raised up house that was flooded. Hardwood floors haven't buckled but are covered in about a half inch of fine silty mud.
Does anyone have a good method for cleaning this out. Easiest would be to power wash it out, but I think this would ruin the floors. It's to hard to squeegee and shoveling would get some but leave a ton of behind, and also may further damage the floors.
Is there any preferred method or machine to clean this up? Thanks.
Does anyone have a good method for cleaning this out. Easiest would be to power wash it out, but I think this would ruin the floors. It's to hard to squeegee and shoveling would get some but leave a ton of behind, and also may further damage the floors.
Is there any preferred method or machine to clean this up? Thanks.
Posted on 8/14/16 at 8:38 pm to Creamer
Hopefully you have flood ins, let it go and install new.
Posted on 8/14/16 at 8:39 pm to Creamer
I can't imagine those will be salvageable
Posted on 8/14/16 at 8:39 pm to Creamer
I will be in same situation when I can get to my house.
I've already filed a claim.
I'm replacing everything
I've already filed a claim.
I'm replacing everything
Posted on 8/14/16 at 8:52 pm to Creamer
Your floor is gonna need to come up. Shovel mud out with a flat shovel
Posted on 8/14/16 at 9:00 pm to Creamer
I'm a builder. File and pull them up bud. Prayers.
Posted on 8/14/16 at 9:19 pm to Creamer
My reply will go against the adv ice of everyone else, but here goes.
The house I was living in during Katrina was my grandpa's old house in Lakeview (NOLA). It is a raised house built in the '20s with hardwood floors throughout.
The flood water stayed in the house for 2 weeks. And the floors never did buckle. They were sanded and revarnished, and no problems.
You might wait and see what they do.
Posted on 8/14/16 at 9:30 pm to Creamer
they are probably done for your primary residence
safe what you can for a camp or lake house - if they are think enough you can work with them
hope you have flood insurance
safe what you can for a camp or lake house - if they are think enough you can work with them
hope you have flood insurance
Posted on 8/14/16 at 11:02 pm to Creamer
If you're really trying to salvage them, get the heaters that Servpro uses. That did the trick on my folks house. They tore out everything but the hardwoods and they were fine afterwards.
This was from a water heater in the attic that had a rust ring and flooded their house (it was for sale at the time)
This was from a water heater in the attic that had a rust ring and flooded their house (it was for sale at the time)
Posted on 8/15/16 at 2:20 am to Creamer
I had polyurethaned plywood floors in my camp. Used an electric (lower pressure) pressure washer and a shop vac working in tandem with a buddy. Had a few bubbles (it was plywood) but when it dried completely you couldn't see where any bubbles had been. Believe me, I tried everything else we could think of. That fine silt is usually sticky when it dries, forget hoping you'll be able to sweep it out
Posted on 8/15/16 at 5:56 am to Creamer
If they are engineered floors, they are done and need replacing. If they are solid plank wood flooring, go the ServePro method with the heaters and dehumidifiers.
Posted on 8/15/16 at 7:56 am to Creamer
LMAO at the people who do not understand the difference between hardwood flooring and laminate or other engineered bullshite.
Wash them with a waterhose and mop or squeegee as not to split the grains and then allow to air dry if possible, if it is tounge and groove you mak have to add a few toe nails to aleviate buckling but dry it slowly as possible. By doing so too quickly (serve pro method) will cause to massive buckling and it will be ruined.
Type of wood is paramount as well.
Unfortunately I learned this the hard way.
Wash them with a waterhose and mop or squeegee as not to split the grains and then allow to air dry if possible, if it is tounge and groove you mak have to add a few toe nails to aleviate buckling but dry it slowly as possible. By doing so too quickly (serve pro method) will cause to massive buckling and it will be ruined.
Type of wood is paramount as well.
Unfortunately I learned this the hard way.
Posted on 8/15/16 at 8:24 am to Creamer
if you still have mud the floors are probably still wet. when it starts to dry out is when it will buckle. more than likely it will be a total loss
Posted on 8/15/16 at 10:09 am to Creamer
I think it will depend on the kind of wood and how much water damage there is.
My old house by City Park had heart pine floors and took a few inches of Katrina water. Insurance gave me enough for full replacement, but I just rented a floor sander and applied polyurethane. It had gotten slightly swollen/cupped on some of the edges, but the sander smoothed that right out. It hadn't buckled up and the old pine was dark enough to not even need stain.
If it's just silty, shop vac and mop a few times until you can determine if the finish is OK.
My old house by City Park had heart pine floors and took a few inches of Katrina water. Insurance gave me enough for full replacement, but I just rented a floor sander and applied polyurethane. It had gotten slightly swollen/cupped on some of the edges, but the sander smoothed that right out. It hadn't buckled up and the old pine was dark enough to not even need stain.
If it's just silty, shop vac and mop a few times until you can determine if the finish is OK.
Posted on 8/15/16 at 8:55 pm to Creamer
pull them out and replace. my wood floor had the prettiest green mold underneath them post Kitrina. Didn't get the smell out of the house until the wood floors were removed
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