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1
Posted on 5/3/15 at 9:42 pm to Old Sarge
It's almost impossible that it's low on freon but it's possible.
The symptoms you are describing sound like dirty coils though.
Is your compressor so hot that you can't touch it? Try cleaning your coils.
If you want more detailed answers email me at napoleontd@gmail I can give your more info. Especially if I have a model number. Being that its just barely out of range I would look at the coils first, the evap fan second.
The symptoms you are describing sound like dirty coils though.
Is your compressor so hot that you can't touch it? Try cleaning your coils.
If you want more detailed answers email me at napoleontd@gmail I can give your more info. Especially if I have a model number. Being that its just barely out of range I would look at the coils first, the evap fan second.
Posted on 5/3/15 at 9:43 pm to Old Sarge
quote:
As in put a clamp amp meter on it to see how many amps it's drawing?
this is a great way to see if your fridge is working too hard.'
Posted on 5/3/15 at 9:44 pm to East Coast Band
Check the back of the fridge to if the pathway from the freezer to the fridge is clogged (frozen) and the air isn't getting through. I have a bottom freezer/top fridge, and sometimes if a door gets left ajar then water will get into that duct/pathway and then freeze- thus blocking the cold air from getting into the fridge. If that's the case, defrost/unclog and you should be good.
Posted on 5/3/15 at 9:44 pm to canerow
quote:
. Did ur appliance guy check the freon cuz frozen coils is almost always low freon. My .02
NO.
No it's not
Frozen coils is always a failed defrost system.
A bad frost pattern on the coils is low freon, if they are all iced up I assure freon (r134a- automotive- same stuff) is not the culprit your defrost system is.
but check your coils excessive Frost (not ice, ice is always a drain issue, frost a defrost issue) push on the back wall or look for frost on the back wall, that would hurt circulation and cause the temp to rise. But generally in a defrost failure the fridge starts to fail while the freezer stays fine.
In a fan failure you have a very similar symptoms but you can't hear the fan. (many units you have to hold the door switch shut to get the fan on)
This post was edited on 5/3/15 at 9:54 pm
Posted on 5/3/15 at 9:45 pm to Old Sarge
quote:
Waiting list is 2 weeks to get a guy here,
Never call a large company, call an independent. We give longer warranties and actually lose money out of our pockets if our repair fails so we try harder the first time. (and usually have tons more training than Sears techs :lol)
Posted on 5/3/15 at 9:50 pm to Napoleon
a modern fridge only has 4 ounces of R134a (give or take) generally when there is a leak it's all gone rather quickly. (totally warm) then the compressor over heats and shuts down. If the compressor is overly hot or you are drawing too many amps then check the coils.
To add freon to your system the right way will cost a lot. (has to be vacuumed, filled with nitrogen, checked for leaks, pulled to a vacuum and filled to spec and the drier replaced)
BUT you CAN put a tap valve on the suction side and add Freon until your gauge gets to positive 5 psi on the suction side. this isn't something that is recommended, but IF it's low on freon that is the only fix that is economical.
I generally only do sealed system work on Vikings, Monograms Sub-zeros and the like as they cost so much to replace.
To add freon to your system the right way will cost a lot. (has to be vacuumed, filled with nitrogen, checked for leaks, pulled to a vacuum and filled to spec and the drier replaced)
BUT you CAN put a tap valve on the suction side and add Freon until your gauge gets to positive 5 psi on the suction side. this isn't something that is recommended, but IF it's low on freon that is the only fix that is economical.
I generally only do sealed system work on Vikings, Monograms Sub-zeros and the like as they cost so much to replace.
This post was edited on 5/3/15 at 9:51 pm
Posted on 5/3/15 at 10:44 pm to Napoleon
Thanks for chiming in Napoleon. First thing the appliance guy told me to do yesterday was inspect the coils in the freezer. They were coated in ice and the metal cover was covered in frost. The fan inside was running as well. So I defrosted them with a hair dryer and put it all back together. It is defrosting on it's own periodically but still not cooling like it should.
Just a few minutes ago I walked by it and thought the noise sounded different, kind of a louder hum. So I rolled it out and noticed that the compressor was running but the fan (outside) wasn't. I reached out and gave the fan a flick and it took off running. Would this be a bad fan motor or bad control board? As an experiment I left the cardboard off of the back and put a small house fan blowing into the bottom of the fridge. I'm wondering if the whole issue is the fan under the fridge crapping out.
Just a few minutes ago I walked by it and thought the noise sounded different, kind of a louder hum. So I rolled it out and noticed that the compressor was running but the fan (outside) wasn't. I reached out and gave the fan a flick and it took off running. Would this be a bad fan motor or bad control board? As an experiment I left the cardboard off of the back and put a small house fan blowing into the bottom of the fridge. I'm wondering if the whole issue is the fan under the fridge crapping out.
Posted on 5/4/15 at 12:30 am to Old Sarge
quote:
issue is the fan under the fridge crapping out.
EXACT problem I had with mine. You will also notice that the front face where the doors seal will be extra hot. This is because the heat from the high side is circulated to remove moisture at the seal. Mine was HOT!! The safety on the compressor would cycle, because there was no fan, it was over heating and kicking off.
Checked eBay, bought motor, replaced, all good. That's been a year ago, now I'm waiting on my replacement ice maker. Also had to replace the starter on the compressor, maybe from when it overheated.
Damn Kenmore.
ETA:
quote:
cardboard off of the back and put a small house fan blowing into the bottom
Also exactly the same thing I did, got me through till I got the motor in.
This post was edited on 5/4/15 at 12:33 am
Posted on 5/4/15 at 12:33 am to Old Sarge
Adjust your scope and move in closer.
Posted on 5/4/15 at 2:23 am to LSUsmartass
quote:this
Go up in the attic and make sure your drip pan isn't clogged, there is a kill switch when that pan gets full
Posted on 5/4/15 at 7:13 am to ChuckM
Well crap, put the fan on it all night and the temps inside are the same 22 in freezer and 45 in fridge.
No one has answered the question regarding the compressor, could it be going out but still limping along?
quote:
You will also notice that the front face where the doors seal will be extra hot. This is because the heat from the high side is circulated to remove moisture at the seal. Mine was HOT!!
Mine had been doing this for months. I may have missed my window of opportunity to save the compressor by not tying to figure this out months ago.
Posted on 5/4/15 at 7:40 am to Old Sarge
Bad fan motor. If you can spin start the fan it's always a bad fan.
Bad fans are much more common than bad motors unless your fridge is a GE. (GE boards seem to fail a good bit more)
That fan "crapping out" would cause the temperature in the condensor coils to get too hot and not disapate the heat correctly causing the operating temp to be higher in the unit.
BUT if that is the case, you shouldn't have a frost problem in the freezer as well.
does this fan have a plastic case or metal? WHat brand? (trying to determine if DC or AC fan)
That cardboard in the back being left off will in itself cause problems. It is needed for proper airflow.
Do you have a multimeter? really need to check the continuity of the heating element in the freezer and the defrost terminator on the return line. (that little cylinder thing with the brown and orange or orange and pink or blue and white wire coming from it, near the top of the coils. It's a $25 part but it's the weak link in the defrost system.
I'm thinking you have a two part problem. Also on some units the fans only run when they are needed (especially on dual evaporator models)
The fan not running is the bigger problem. If you spin started it then it is failing and HAS to be replaced or the problem will return.
Many lazys in my field will spin start and call it fixed and then just hope it doesn't stop again in their warranty period.
If you get me a model number I can get you any part number for the unit.
Also 9/10 buying prime from amazon next day is cheaper than retail from the appliance store.
BUT.. you can ask to open a "cash account" and this will give you wholesale pricing.
Bad fans are much more common than bad motors unless your fridge is a GE. (GE boards seem to fail a good bit more)
That fan "crapping out" would cause the temperature in the condensor coils to get too hot and not disapate the heat correctly causing the operating temp to be higher in the unit.
BUT if that is the case, you shouldn't have a frost problem in the freezer as well.
does this fan have a plastic case or metal? WHat brand? (trying to determine if DC or AC fan)
That cardboard in the back being left off will in itself cause problems. It is needed for proper airflow.
Do you have a multimeter? really need to check the continuity of the heating element in the freezer and the defrost terminator on the return line. (that little cylinder thing with the brown and orange or orange and pink or blue and white wire coming from it, near the top of the coils. It's a $25 part but it's the weak link in the defrost system.
I'm thinking you have a two part problem. Also on some units the fans only run when they are needed (especially on dual evaporator models)
The fan not running is the bigger problem. If you spin started it then it is failing and HAS to be replaced or the problem will return.
Many lazys in my field will spin start and call it fixed and then just hope it doesn't stop again in their warranty period.
If you get me a model number I can get you any part number for the unit.
Also 9/10 buying prime from amazon next day is cheaper than retail from the appliance store.
BUT.. you can ask to open a "cash account" and this will give you wholesale pricing.
Posted on 5/4/15 at 7:43 am to ChuckM
quote:
Damn Kenmore.
Don't blame them, blame electrolux, Kenmore hasn't built an appliance since the 70's. Their washers and dryers are usually whirlpool, the fridges can be whirlpool or frigidaire. The ovens can be those two as well.
the first three numbers in a Kenmore model number tell you who built it.
LINK
Posted on 5/4/15 at 7:45 am to Old Sarge
quote:
No one has answered the question regarding the compressor, could it be going out but still limping along?
I kinda skirted it. If it gets too hot, it shuts off.
You most likely have frost in the air dampner at the top or the air return at the bottom of the freezer. without circulation your food will not get to the right temperature.
A fridge doesn't cool food, it removes the heat from food, so you have to have good circulation of air and coolant. With a failing fan and frosted coils you had neither.
Posted on 5/4/15 at 7:49 am to Old Sarge
quote:
Mine had been doing this for months. I may have missed my window of opportunity to save the compressor by not tying to figure this out months ago.
That isn't always a tell tale. Some brands have an electric heater where the doors meet rather than route a line through it.
If you have temps below room temperature your compressor is working. You might need to replace the relay on it or even the capacitor. Hell a failed capacitor can cause a compressor to work to hard.
If you are a do it your selfer, buy a new condesnor fan motor, a new relay/overload kit (you can use a generic 3 in 1 it's fine) and a defrost terminator and you should still be out of pocket less than a service call for an appliance repairman. (self defeating advice, lol)
Posted on 5/4/15 at 8:00 am to Napoleon
Ok, just took the inside cover off again.
Coils inside fridge are clean, frost is only on the very bottom line where it is exposed. The defrost is working and the inside fan is working.
Starting to think the compressor must be going out. Had the house fan blowing under the fridge all night and the temps inside the fridge didn't get any better.
Coils inside fridge are clean, frost is only on the very bottom line where it is exposed. The defrost is working and the inside fan is working.
Starting to think the compressor must be going out. Had the house fan blowing under the fridge all night and the temps inside the fridge didn't get any better.
Posted on 5/4/15 at 8:02 am to Old Sarge
quote:
Coils inside fridge are clean, frost is only on the very bottom line where it is exposed. The defrost is working and the inside fan is working.
like this?
Posted on 5/4/15 at 8:06 am to Napoleon
again. it's not your compressor. the windings may start to go out, but IF the motor inside is pumping its doing it's job.
A compressor works or it doesn't. If it was failing you would not have below 32* temps in the freezer.
If you really want specialized forum help go to Appliantology.org or ApplianceJunk.com
It's full of people who forgot more than I ever learned in the industry.
generally a failing compressor gets harder for the pump to turn to fix that you put a "hard start kit" on it and can usually get a few more years out of the compressor.
A compressor works or it doesn't. If it was failing you would not have below 32* temps in the freezer.
If you really want specialized forum help go to Appliantology.org or ApplianceJunk.com
It's full of people who forgot more than I ever learned in the industry.
generally a failing compressor gets harder for the pump to turn to fix that you put a "hard start kit" on it and can usually get a few more years out of the compressor.
Posted on 5/4/15 at 8:07 am to Old Sarge
quote:
The defrost is working and the inside fan is working.
If you just defrosted yesterday, there hasn't been enough door openings (yes this facotrs in) and run time to turn the defrost system on.
The house fan doesn't really replicate the airflow properly. You draw air into a fridge from the floor and expel it through the part of the cardboard with the vents. If you are just blowing the air at it, it's not going over the coils properly, so that test doesn't really mean much.
Quick question.
Is this a GE fridge?
This post was edited on 5/4/15 at 8:09 am
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