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re: General home brewing thread: Ask questions and get answers..
Posted on 1/7/13 at 9:34 am to LoneStarTiger
Posted on 1/7/13 at 9:34 am to LoneStarTiger
quote:
I'm never switching from extract
You can do it!
It really wasn't bad. Read up a little on it and had a little trial and error but I feel the next one will go MUCH smoother.
2
Posted on 1/7/13 at 9:38 am to s14suspense
Yeah, I'm all about the all-grain these days. I've had varying success with mash efficiency and stuck sparges. My first attempt at all-grain was actually the most efficient, close to 80%, which probably meant my strike water was a little too cool. No off flavors though that I could pick up.
The second batch was about 65%, and I think I had the strike water too high, but again the beer tastes fine.
The second batch was about 65%, and I think I had the strike water too high, but again the beer tastes fine.
Posted on 1/7/13 at 9:39 am to BugAC
Since this is now a general homebrewing thread.
I bottled my Bourbon Barrel Imperial Stout Friday. ABV was 9%. If some of you recall, i brewed this beer with 17.5 lbs of grains. I had a mash efficiency of about 80% i think. I primary fermented for about 10 days, and secondaried to my oak whiskey barrel for 3-4 weeks with 8 oz. of Woodford Reserve. I took a sample as i was bottling. It tastes pretty damned good. It's definitely not a fast drinker. Perfect for a cold night. There is a definite bourbon presence to the taste, but it is very smooth. The oak does a good job of mellowing it out and gives it hints of vanilla. Then the imperial stout comes through with some sweetness and maltiness. I bottled and came out with less than i thought i'd get, but at 9.2%, you don't need many to do the job.
I bottled my Bourbon Barrel Imperial Stout Friday. ABV was 9%. If some of you recall, i brewed this beer with 17.5 lbs of grains. I had a mash efficiency of about 80% i think. I primary fermented for about 10 days, and secondaried to my oak whiskey barrel for 3-4 weeks with 8 oz. of Woodford Reserve. I took a sample as i was bottling. It tastes pretty damned good. It's definitely not a fast drinker. Perfect for a cold night. There is a definite bourbon presence to the taste, but it is very smooth. The oak does a good job of mellowing it out and gives it hints of vanilla. Then the imperial stout comes through with some sweetness and maltiness. I bottled and came out with less than i thought i'd get, but at 9.2%, you don't need many to do the job.
Posted on 1/7/13 at 9:39 am to s14suspense
quote:
s14suspense
We can chat about it on Wednesday.
Posted on 1/7/13 at 9:41 am to BugAC
quote:
There is a definite bourbon presence to the taste, but it is very smooth. The oak does a good job of mellowing it out and gives it hints of vanilla. Then the imperial stout comes through with some sweetness and maltiness.
Sounds pretty good to me. Drink them up in this weather.
quote:
Yeah, I'm all about the all-grain these days. I've had varying success with mash efficiency and stuck sparges. My first attempt at all-grain was actually the most efficient, close to 80%, which probably meant my strike water was a little too cool. No off flavors though that I could pick up.
Yeah, I preheated the mash tun but I think I let the lid off for too long and let it cool off too much. Had to add a gallon of water at 193 to get it back up to 152. Then it held it there for the full 60 minutes no problem at all.
This post was edited on 1/7/13 at 9:44 am
Posted on 1/7/13 at 9:42 am to s14suspense
quote:
I'm talking about mashing in by adding my grains to my cooler full of water.
Then sparge with another 4 gallons after I've drained my initial mash water.
Ok. Well like i've said, everything i've read says to always add the water to the grains, never grains to water. I believe i read it in how to brew and also in brew your own magazine. But also, Frat is the home brew buddha on this board, so i wouldn't question him if he says it's fine. I've only done 3 all grain brews, so i too, am still learning my way around it.
I have noticed one thing. All-grain brewing is very easy. As long as you know your system; what temps to raise your water too, heat loss, etc... then it's a piece of cake. When i made my bourbon stout i was surprised myself with the simplicity. The only pain is that it is a full day of brewing (with cleaning). I believe for my next batch i will try mashing one day, and brewing the next to break up my brew day and make it more manageable.
This post was edited on 1/7/13 at 9:45 am
Posted on 1/7/13 at 9:44 am to s14suspense
quote:
ounds pretty good to me. Drink them up in this weather.
Yup. Got a minimum of 2 weeks before i pop the first top. Just hope the cold weather holds up for a month or 2. I will definitely age some of them.
Out of my brew i got about 7 bombers and a case of 12 oz. bottled. So roughly 38 12 oz. bottles, out of a typical 42-44 i usually get.
Posted on 1/7/13 at 9:53 am to BugAC
quote:
Well like i've said, everything i've read says to always add the water to the grains, never grains to water. I believe i read it in how to brew and also in brew your own magazine. But also, Frat is the home brew buddha on this board, so i wouldn't question him if he says it's fine. I've only done 3 all grain brews, so i too, am still learning my way around it.
I'm still learning as well. One advantage for me to add the water first is that the 10-gallon cooler had marks on the side so I'll know when I've added enough water!
Posted on 1/7/13 at 9:55 am to LSUBoo
quote:
3. Pour in about 1 gallon of your strike water into the Mash Tun and stir in the crushed grain. This is the doughing-in stage. Mix the water and grist together gradually to avoid shocking the enzymes. Stir it to make sure all the grain is fully wetted,
I think I'll try that next time. From Palmer.
Posted on 1/7/13 at 10:03 am to s14suspense
So you should add a gallon to the mash tun, and then add the grain to get it started... then slowly add the rest of the strike water?
I'll have to try that as well.
I'll have to try that as well.
Posted on 1/7/13 at 10:05 am to LSUBoo
quote:
So you should add a gallon to the mash tun, and then add the grain to get it started... then slowly add the rest of the strike water?
That's what it sounds like.
Frat? Zappa? Bottomland?
Posted on 1/7/13 at 10:05 am to s14suspense
quote:
3. Pour in about 1 gallon of your strike water into the Mash Tun and stir in the crushed grain. This is the doughing-in stage. Mix the water and grist together gradually to avoid shocking the enzymes. Stir it to make sure all the grain is fully wetted,
Have i been reading this wrong? I thought i was supposed to be adding water to grain. But only at 1 gallon at a time, not the other way around. Again i use the 2-10 gallon water cooler system, maybe it's different.
Posted on 1/7/13 at 10:08 am to s14suspense
quote:
Frat?
I don't do that. There are apparently many ways to skin a cat.
I add my water to the mash tun a little warm to account for the mash tun taking some of the heat. I then dump the grains in and go to town with my giant mash paddle to get rid of all the dough balls. I have added the grains first but have trouble not splashing the grains all over the place when I add my water since I just dump it in not use a hose and slowly add it.
I really do not think that it matters, but I am sure there are other things that I do wrong.
Posted on 1/7/13 at 10:11 am to Fratastic423
quote:
There are apparently many ways to skin a cat.
I agree...
Think I'll either try the 1 gallon the grain then rest of water or make sure my false bottom is sitting flush/sealed against the walls of the cooler.
Posted on 1/7/13 at 10:53 am to Fratastic423
quote:
I add my water to the mash tun a little warm to account for the mash tun taking some of the heat.
I typically boil water and throw it in the mash tun about 15 minutes before adding my grain to let the tun heat up. I then pour out the water, add my grain, then add my mash water 1 gallon at a time, mixing after each water addition.
Posted on 1/7/13 at 11:01 am to BugAC
quote:
I typically boil water and throw it in the mash tun about 15 minutes before adding my grain to let the tun heat up.
I did that too and the inside of the cooler warped a little. I was like WTF?
Posted on 1/7/13 at 11:03 am to s14suspense
quote:
I did that too and the inside of the cooler warped a little. I was like WTF?
Mine hasn't done that yet. I also only boil about 1 gallon and slosh it around. But i think backing it down to 190 degrees would be sufficient.
What kind of cooler do you use?
Posted on 1/7/13 at 11:15 am to BugAC
quote:
What kind of cooler do you use?
Orange Home Depot 10 gallon cooler. I threw pretty hot water in there and closed it up immediately. I probably shouldn't have shut it up so soon.
Posted on 1/7/13 at 11:57 am to s14suspense
Another General Homebrew Question:
What are the advantages of boiling the wort 90 minutes, as opposed to 60 minutes?
What are the advantages of boiling the wort 90 minutes, as opposed to 60 minutes?
Posted on 1/7/13 at 12:01 pm to BugAC
quote:
What are the advantages of boiling the wort 90 minutes, as opposed to 60 minutes?
Not real sure but I'll take a stab at it... Driving off DMS in some styles more prone to it?
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