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olympic national park july 2023 review

Posted on 7/18/23 at 1:59 pm
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
38854 posts
Posted on 7/18/23 at 1:59 pm
visited olympic 7/11- 14 as part of a longer trip. first time visitor. we came in from the east from north cascades via the coupeville ferry to port townsend

below is the route map for the week



olympic is well documented in pictures, this will be a news-you-can-use review mainly for people who've never been there before. plus, my wife took all the pix

DAY 1:
8:45am ferry from coupeville to port townsend, takes about an hour. we had planned to go straight to hurricane ridge, but...since the visitors center there burned down, evidently they dont have enough bathrooms there so they are closing the road for the day once a certain number of cars have entered. so, we couldnt go as they are filling up by 8:30am every morning. it was a clear day too. if hurricane ridge is on your list, make sure you are at the road checkpoint by 7am.

so we continued on. if it's your thing, in sequim is the nicest dispensary i've ever been to, on the indian reservation right on 101, called cedar greens. well supplied, we stopped in port angeles to get trail snacks and go to the visitors center. next stop once in the park was marymere falls (skip it) and a nice forest hike down part of the barnes creek trail at storm king trailhead (highly recommend). by that time it was late afternoon so we headed to sol duc hot springs resort for the next 2 nites.

after check-in, we made a cocktail and hiked to sol duc falls (don't miss) and about 2 miles down the sol duc river trail. beautiful forest, definitely take this hike.

the resort is nice, cabins are nice, dinner was way better than it needed to be, and the hot springs pool soak was great

DAY 2:
woke up crack of dawn and made it to hoh rainforest trailhead by 6:30am. this is the crown jewel of the park, words (or pictures) don't do it justice. everyone should see this at least once. absolutely spellbinding. we walked both short loops before the crowds go there, pretty much had it to ourselves. after that we walked 4 miles out and back down the hoh river trail, even better than the loops. by the time we got back, it was tourista armageddon, massive crowds and a line of cars waiting to get in many miles long. so, get there early

from there we drove to forks (cool town), had lunch at a burger drive-in, and headed to rialto beach to catch low tide. definitely get a tide chart for beach visits. it was crowded but once in and on the beach you can get separation. we hiked to split rock and hole-in-the-wall, and low tide revealed amazing tidepools. unbelievably beautiful.

back to sol duc for dinner and a hot spring soak.

DAY 3:
got up early again and drove up to cape flattery (NW-most point of CONUS) thru sekiu and neah beach. we didnt know what to expect but this was a major highlight of the visit. if you have the time, don't miss it. we caught the Strait of Juan de Fuca beaches at low tide (on accident), and theres tons of pull-offs on the highway where you can walk down to the beaches and have them all to yourselves. again, words can't describe how cool this area is.

in neah bay you enter the makah reservation, and you need to pay for a visitor permit to go up to the cape. crowded but not like the park, theres a short hike to the lookout thru another beautiful forest. we saw massive sea lions down below and the view is not to be missed.

from there we drove to ruby beach. i thought rialto beach was going to be the best beach...i was wrong. definitely go see rialto beach, but if you want to spend a beach day (especially with kids), do it at ruby beach. much less crowded, twice as pretty, and it's a kid's dream come true. you could spend all day here and they'd never get bored. there were kids making rafts out of driftwood and paddling them around in a big inside tidepool . we caught it at low tide and again there were tidepools and rocks to climb all over. don't miss

from ruby beach we headed down the coast to kalaloch lodge for the night. in hindsight i would have done 2 nites there instead of sol duc. got dinner (very good) then headed to the beach for a stroll and to watch the sunset. built a big ole fire in the fireplace in the room that night.

DAY 4:
we had intended a leisurely departure but united cancelled our 1pm flight at 5:30 in the morning, so we scrambled to get packed and raced the three hours to sea-tac to catch an 11:30am flight to SF. that sucked, but we made it with just a few minutes to spare

general notes:
we needed one more day. 4 nights would have been perfect. we didnt get to hurricane ridge, ozette or quinault. highway 101 runs around the park mostly, and its a commercial state highway so be careful. forks is cool and you can get gas, groceries, supplies, etc all there as needed. if your kids read the twilight books, this is where they are set. get to the main attractions EARLY. all the trails we hiked are easy and flat, very kid-friendly. if you want to do a backpacking trip, this is the place to do it.

easily top-5 of any place we've ever been, and we will be back
Posted by notiger1997
Metairie
Member since May 2009
58205 posts
Posted on 7/18/23 at 2:10 pm to
Great review. Thanks for posting.
Posted by Nole Man
Somewhere In Tennessee!
Member since May 2011
7199 posts
Posted on 7/18/23 at 2:12 pm to
Excellent review! One of the great areas of the country to visit. Lake Crescent Lodge was a favorite.
Posted by longhorn22
Nicholls St. Fan
Member since Jan 2007
42303 posts
Posted on 7/18/23 at 3:44 pm to
Bookmarking for sure.

This sounds great.

Share some pics
Posted by Santiago_Dunbar
Atlanta, GA
Member since Feb 2021
214 posts
Posted on 7/18/23 at 8:30 pm to
Hit the nail on the head. Hoh is a madhouse if you’re not in there early to get out in front of the crowds. The Hoh River Trail is one of those hikes that you never want to make the call to turn around on.

Next time I’ll make it a 2-3 day and go all the way to Glacier Meadows

Posted by specchaser
lafayette
Member since Feb 2008
2592 posts
Posted on 7/18/23 at 9:53 pm to
hate to hear about the crowds, went in 2018 pre-covid and it wasn't crowded. other folks on the trail but room to spread out. the beaches were even less crowded. ONP is my favorite park, it has everything.
Posted by JoeBobRuby
Member since Sep 2005
5921 posts
Posted on 7/19/23 at 6:25 am to
Great review thank you! I'm going next week and was on the fence about going up toward Cape Flattery. Your message was received and I'm making it a priority!
Posted by UncleRuckus
Member since Feb 2013
7659 posts
Posted on 7/19/23 at 6:28 am to
We did this trip about a month ago, absolutely loved it. All of the hikes are easy and it’s a beautiful park.
Posted by tigers33
Mountains
Member since Oct 2007
720 posts
Posted on 7/19/23 at 7:05 am to
Olympic is a beautiful park. I went on a backpacking trip there around a decade ago now. There is a small diner in Forks that I still maintain has the best bacon I’ve ever eaten.

quote:

Next time I’ll make it a 2-3 day and go all the way to Glacier Meadows


This is what we did. Looking out over Blue Glacier is something else.
Posted by UncleRuckus
Member since Feb 2013
7659 posts
Posted on 7/19/23 at 7:40 am to
quote:

on the fence about going up toward Cape Flattery.

It’s a decent drive but I would strongly recommend doing it.
Posted by Jolla
Houston, TX
Member since Dec 2018
285 posts
Posted on 7/19/23 at 7:42 am to
Awesome review. Was trying to put this and Cascades in one trip but couldn't swing it, but this will definitely be a priority for next year.

How long did it take to get to Cape Flattery from Sol Duc?
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
38854 posts
Posted on 7/19/23 at 8:34 am to
about 2hrs but we stopped a lot. 1.5hrs if you don’t stop. You go out the same way you came so you can stop on the way out if you want. When you get into Neah Bay there’s a store at the marina you can get a permit at

bring binoculars

a couple other random notes
-no cell signal at sol duc but we got a signal everywhere else
-second beach is highly recommended by books and guides but we didn’t have time to hike to it. You get to it from la push.
-we caught beautiful weather but bring a raincoat
-there’s lots of places to stay in forks if the lodges are full and tons of campgrounds in the park
-we only did a drive by at lake crescent but it’s equally beautiful you could spend a day there also
Posted by longhorn22
Nicholls St. Fan
Member since Jan 2007
42303 posts
Posted on 7/19/23 at 8:51 am to
Fly into Seattle? Did yall save any time to do Seattle or was the trip specifically built around Olympic National Park?

I'm very intrigued as this caught my attention on Aerial America.... happy this thread came along since this was something I'd love to dive more into.
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
38854 posts
Posted on 7/19/23 at 9:16 am to
we drove to north cascades NP first from Idaho then to Olympic and dropped the rental off in Seattle and flew out from there

entire trip was Boulder/Stanley/the gorge/north cascades/Olympic/SF/home

a fantastic two week trip would be all in Washington catching cascades/Olympic/mt rainier in and out of Seattle. Seattle itself does nothing for me though, just an airport
Posted by JYD
Pineville
Member since Oct 2003
7747 posts
Posted on 8/25/23 at 12:22 pm to
Very useful info here!

Heading up that way on 10/14 for a week. I have the following on our itinerary, but it's probably going to be a little too ambitious and will have to omit some stops:

Day 1 after arriving @ around 11 am PST:
• Snoqualmie Falls - Fall City WA
• Mount Rainier NP

Day 2:
• Mount Rainier NP

Day 3:
• Mount Saint Helens
• Cape Disappointment State Park

Day 4:
• Kalaloch Beach 1
• Kalaloch Beach 4
• Ruby Beach
• Rialto Beach
• Shi Shi Beach
• Cape Flattery

Day 5 & 6:
• Olympic NP

Day 7:
• Ferry Ride To Victoria BC from Port Angeles WA
• High Steel Bridge - Shelton WA
• Space Needle
• Chiluly Garden & Glass


Posted by Funky Tide 8
Tittleman's Crest
Member since Feb 2009
52745 posts
Posted on 8/25/23 at 2:29 pm to
quote:

if it's your thing, in sequim is the nicest dispensary i've ever been to, on the indian reservation right on 101, called cedar greens.


Went there on a week ago on our way back to Seattle and stocked up on edibles before we flew back. Very cool store, and nice staff. Hella deals.


quote:

got up early again and drove up to cape flattery (NW-most point of CONUS) thru sekiu and neah beach. we didnt know what to expect but this was a major highlight of the visit. if you have the time, don't miss it. we caught the Strait of Juan de Fuca beaches at low tide (on accident), and theres tons of pull-offs on the highway where you can walk down to the beaches and have them all to yourselves. again, words can't describe how cool this area is.



We went there two Thursdays ago. Stunning scenery.

We stopped into a store in Neah Bay, and I noticed an eagle flying towards the water, so I went down there and there were about 5 or 6 eagles just hanging out on the beach, and flying around. Was incredible. We got really close to a yearling that was hanging out on a rock.




























sorry to highjack your thread

This post was edited on 8/25/23 at 2:33 pm
Posted by nctiger71
North Carolina
Member since Oct 2017
1325 posts
Posted on 8/25/23 at 2:32 pm to
Thanks for the report. We hope to get there next year. Very helpful information.
Posted by Funky Tide 8
Tittleman's Crest
Member since Feb 2009
52745 posts
Posted on 8/25/23 at 2:32 pm to
quote:

we drove to north cascades NP first from Idaho then to Olympic and dropped the rental off in Seattle and flew out from there



How was the smoke? We had planned to do NCNP but the fires scared us off, so we did Olympic instead.
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
38854 posts
Posted on 8/25/23 at 5:35 pm to
we were there before the fires I guess because it was clear as a bell on the days it wasnt raining

great pix of the eagles. That stretch of shore is stunning
Posted by Funky Tide 8
Tittleman's Crest
Member since Feb 2009
52745 posts
Posted on 8/25/23 at 6:43 pm to
Ahh I see that y'all were there mid July. No fires then.
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