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Posted on 2/29/16 at 1:09 pm to Ziggy
Ygm
Posted on 2/29/16 at 8:54 pm to CAD703X
Thanks buddy. Shot you a reply.
Posted on 2/29/16 at 9:55 pm to CAD703X
quote:
CAD703X
Cyanogenmod on your phone? That is my go to ROM when it is available for my phone.
The humidity detection is only from the main unit, as the remote sensors do not detect it.
Posted on 3/1/16 at 10:10 am to LSUJay13
Anyone up for a $60 zwave controller to make your 'dumb' blinds smart?
IBlinds
They lost me at 10 months until release.
I mean..zwave is just a damn switch (on/off) and i assume blind motors have been around for awhile so what is taking so damn long to ship this?
IBlinds
quote:
The Kit includes an intelligent blind motor to close or tilt the blinds, special adapters for all tilt rod sizes and a rechargeable battery that can be charged using a USB adapter or a solar panel.
A user can install the intelligent motor inside the blind rail in about 10 minutes, without the need for any tools, messy remodeling or professional programming.
iBlinds uses the Z-wave wireless technology to securely integrate with your home automation network. There are nearly a 1000 different Z-wave products that all work together so you can choose the products that are right for your home and control them all with a single app.
The iBlinds kit is made for homeowners and landlords who would like to save time and money on energy bills and to have an automated solution which makes their lives more comfortable and secure. It is also very helpful for seniors and people with a limited mobility.
The Kickstarter project will run until March 31, 2016 by visiting the project’s page at https://www.kickstarter.com, during which time early-adopters have an opportunity to pre-order the kit, starting at $60 with an estimated delivery date scheduled for December of 2016.
They lost me at 10 months until release.
I mean..zwave is just a damn switch (on/off) and i assume blind motors have been around for awhile so what is taking so damn long to ship this?
This post was edited on 3/1/16 at 10:15 am
Posted on 3/1/16 at 11:05 am to CAD703X
I'd want to know just how easy the installation actually is and how long the battery lasted.
Posted on 3/1/16 at 11:13 am to CAD703X
quote:
10 months until release.
Well that just made my decision easy on my next smart home purchase. WeMo Smart Crock-Pot it is for $120.
Posted on 3/1/16 at 12:33 pm to CAD703X
Looking for a little technical assistance… I bought a new Leviton smart switch to work with my Wink hub. The problem is all the wiring on the old switch is black and nothing is labeled. I’m no electrician and have no clue how match up the old switch wiring with the new switch. Do we have any know-how on the board who can offer up some guidance? Thanks in advance!
old switch
new switch
old switch
new switch
Posted on 3/1/16 at 12:38 pm to runforrestrun
I'm no expert and i ran into the same problem. Neither my line nor load were labeled. I just guessed. Got it wrong and flipped them and it worked.
Posted on 3/1/16 at 12:40 pm to runforrestrun
You need a LINE (hot) LOAD (usually red) and NEUTRAL (white and generally pigtailed in the wall behind the switch)
First: is this a 3-way or single pole (one switch/one light)?
Second: if you connect the wires wrong, the switch wont work so you can always change the wires around and if you get the LED to work and the light to work, you've got the correct wires in the right places.
you aren't showing us the electrical box so i can't tell you what wire is doing what but the way that switch is configured, it appears this is a 2-gang box and that line is wrapped around the screw to pass the power on to the next switch.
that is definitely NOT a neutral from that configuration.
ETA ignore the YL (its got a red sticker over it) unless this is a 3-way switch which i'm 99% sure it isn't.
First: is this a 3-way or single pole (one switch/one light)?
Second: if you connect the wires wrong, the switch wont work so you can always change the wires around and if you get the LED to work and the light to work, you've got the correct wires in the right places.
you aren't showing us the electrical box so i can't tell you what wire is doing what but the way that switch is configured, it appears this is a 2-gang box and that line is wrapped around the screw to pass the power on to the next switch.
that is definitely NOT a neutral from that configuration.
ETA ignore the YL (its got a red sticker over it) unless this is a 3-way switch which i'm 99% sure it isn't.
This post was edited on 3/1/16 at 12:43 pm
Posted on 3/1/16 at 12:41 pm to bbap
quote:yup
Got it wrong and flipped them and it worked
only trick is that switch is likely wired to a second switch in the same box so he needs to take a better pic showing us the inside of the box.
Posted on 3/1/16 at 12:44 pm to CAD703X
quote:
only trick is that switch is likely wired to a second switch in the same box so he needs to take a better pic showing us the inside of the box.
agreed. mine was too (fan and light in a 2 switch gangbox). i know now i could have easily figured out the line was the one that also ran to the next switch. I didn't know that at the time though.
Posted on 3/1/16 at 12:46 pm to CAD703X
quote:
you aren't showing us the electrical box so i can't tell you what wire is doing what but the way that switch is configured, it appears this is a 2-gang box and that line is wrapped around the screw to pass the power on to the next switch.
This is in our condo about 5 hours away. I snapped this picture last month as I was leaving in hopes of an easy answer. I might have to bite the bullet and get an electrician over there.
ETA
quote:
First: is this a 3-way or single pole (one switch/one light)?
It's a single pole.
This post was edited on 3/1/16 at 12:53 pm
Posted on 3/1/16 at 12:55 pm to runforrestrun
quote:
I might have to bite the bullet and get an electrician over there.
nah. you can do this and the more you DIY the more confidence you'll have when doing the next one.
i'm 99% sure your neutrals are in the box all pigtailed together with a cap. buy a little white wire to use as a pigtail (if not in the box with the leviton already) so you'll be prepared to wire the neutral.
installing it is beyond easy; i dont even bother turning the power off
yeah i know..i'm lazy and its going to bite me in the arse one day. WHITE you'll unscrew the cap on the white neutrals and hold the pigtail against them and screw it back on. MAKE TRIPLE DAMN SURE THAT CAP IS TIGHT AND YOUR NEW WIRE WON'T PULL OUT. just keep on turning that cap until it wont turn anymore then gently yank on the white pigtail to make sure it doesn't pull loose. if it does, unscrew the cap and do it again.
BLACK once thats done, insert the TOP black into the black hole. turning the screw will tighten them into the hole. don't make the mistake of trying to wrap the thick gauge wire around the screw. unecessary because the leviton has that cool feature that turning the screw tightens down the holes.
RED eta shite, almost forgot you'll need to make sure that other line passes the power along, good thing the leviton has TWO holes for just such a purpose. INSERT the *TWO* black wires at the bottom of your first switch into the 2 holes by the RD screw in the leviton pic.
make sense?
make sure you can shove everything back into the box and get the new FAT switch in there first before trying out the switch.
eta
quote:
single pole
yeah you got this. just remember those 2 blacks at the bottom will both need to be inserted into the holes by the red label on the leviton.
eta2 if somehow this is wrong, the only thing you will need to change is move the 2 black wires to the BLACK holes and the top black wire to the RED hole.
DO NOT FORGET WHICH BLACK WIRE WAS ALONE!! put a mark on it or something when you disconnect it from the original switch.
This post was edited on 3/1/16 at 1:03 pm
Posted on 3/1/16 at 1:06 pm to CAD703X
Makes sense CAD, thanks a million. I head back that way in a few weeks.
If you want a nice, cheap place to stay in Destin, hit me up! This assumes I don't burn it down when I attempt this :-)
If you want a nice, cheap place to stay in Destin, hit me up! This assumes I don't burn it down when I attempt this :-)
Posted on 3/1/16 at 1:20 pm to CAD703X
quote:
installing it is beyond easy; i dont even bother turning the power off yeah i know..i'm lazy and its going to bite me in the arse one day.
whoa
Posted on 3/1/16 at 2:05 pm to bbap
quote:
whoa
i know i know. the neutral does 'spark' a bit when you push it in but i always hold it by the plastic when inserting it.
Posted on 3/1/16 at 2:22 pm to CAD703X
quote:
BLACK once thats done, insert the TOP black into the black hole. turning the screw will tighten them into the hole. don't make the mistake of trying to wrap the thick gauge wire around the screw. unecessary because the leviton has that cool feature that turning the screw tightens down the holes.
Whoa...something doesn't make sense here. Why would he be putting the two blacks to the load side? This is most likely power, so it should go to black
Posted on 3/1/16 at 2:29 pm to mctiger1985
quote:
Whoa...something doesn't make sense here. Why would he be putting the two blacks to the load side? This is most likely power, so it should go to black
all the wire are black. did i get that reversed? should the 2 wires (at the bottom..they're the load right?) in the first pic at the bottom go to the black holes in the leviton and not the red?
and the one at the top in the first pic goes to..red (line?)
i just do it both ways when wires are the same color and if it doesnt work one way i try the other.
This post was edited on 3/1/16 at 2:38 pm
Posted on 3/1/16 at 2:33 pm to CAD703X
quote:
all the wire are black. did i get that reversed? should the 2 wires (at the bottom) in the first pic at the bottom go to the black holes in the leviton and not the red?
i think you did get it reversed.
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