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Message
Braid vrs Mono Pro's Con's ?
Posted on 2/15/15 at 1:41 pm
Posted on 2/15/15 at 1:41 pm
I've got a bass fishing trip next weekend and just bought Trileane 50lb 12 lb test dia Braid.
I've never used this stuff but broke off last year on a couple of nice fish so I thought I would try it.
Will be fishing mostly soft plastics.
Senko's, Crawworms, Jigs etc
I've never used this stuff but broke off last year on a couple of nice fish so I thought I would try it.
Will be fishing mostly soft plastics.
Senko's, Crawworms, Jigs etc
7
Posted on 2/15/15 at 2:01 pm to The Torch
Stronger
Not invisible
Not invisible
Posted on 2/15/15 at 2:16 pm to The Torch
quote:
Trileane 50lb 12 lb test dia Braid.
Is it 50 or 12?
I've found that very light (less than 20#) braid tangles very easily. Kinda like fishing with thread.
I use 20# Powerpro. Works for me. All salt fishing though.
Breaking off is rare, but fish with teeth can cut it.
Supposedly you need to use a palomar knot, else it may cut itself.
ETA: You will immediately notice the increased sensitivity, because it doesn't stretch like braid.
This post was edited on 2/15/15 at 2:19 pm
Posted on 2/15/15 at 2:30 pm to Grassy1
I'd think 50lb test is overkill unless you will be fishing a lot of weeds or brush.
30lbs is more than enough on most all occasions.
Also use a 3-5 ft flouro leader in 25-30 lbs test if the water is clear.
30lbs is more than enough on most all occasions.
Also use a 3-5 ft flouro leader in 25-30 lbs test if the water is clear.
Posted on 2/15/15 at 2:52 pm to The Torch
Braid on top water (frogs) and heavy cover (jigs and punching rigs). It floats and no stretch so also most sensitive, but easier for fish to see.
Fluorocarbon on hard plastics (crank baits, rat-l-traps) and flipping rigs (beavers and crawfish) and weightless soft plastics (senkos and flukes). It sinks the best, less visible, and less stretch, but will fray and weaken over time with hook set/catches.
Mono is on one of my rod and reels but I don't know what was tied on last. Usually a spinnerbait, chatter bait, crankbait, pop-r, or swim bait. It's on a rod that's not really used often and that bait gets changed throughout the day most of the time. Pretty much mono is a good bait if you don't have a dedicated style on that rod and reel setup.
ETA - fixing typos
Fluorocarbon on hard plastics (crank baits, rat-l-traps) and flipping rigs (beavers and crawfish) and weightless soft plastics (senkos and flukes). It sinks the best, less visible, and less stretch, but will fray and weaken over time with hook set/catches.
Mono is on one of my rod and reels but I don't know what was tied on last. Usually a spinnerbait, chatter bait, crankbait, pop-r, or swim bait. It's on a rod that's not really used often and that bait gets changed throughout the day most of the time. Pretty much mono is a good bait if you don't have a dedicated style on that rod and reel setup.
ETA - fixing typos
This post was edited on 2/15/15 at 2:54 pm
Posted on 2/15/15 at 3:04 pm to Citica8
quote:
Is it 50 or 12?
50 lb test with the diameter of 12 lb mono I assume
That's what the box says :)
I've used Mono all my life, not sure why I bought this other than I had a 6 lb plus bass break me off last year due to not re tying after multiple catches/bites.
Posted on 2/15/15 at 3:21 pm to The Torch
mono user. only time I have broken off when was using 6lb test on ultra light rod. bass was probably about a 5 pounder. it hit a topwater bait, waited a second, set the hook and snap.
Use Trilene XL 14lb for freshwater, 17lb for inshore saltwater
Use Trilene XL 14lb for freshwater, 17lb for inshore saltwater
Posted on 2/15/15 at 4:32 pm to joeleblanc
Trilene XT 14lb low vis green mono on almost all of my reels. I use 17 with a Carolina rig. 50lb power pro on my punching set up.
My bream/crappie ultralights have 4 or 6lb mono.
Fluorocarbon is good for certain applications. Especially in ultra clear water, or when you need the line to sink. I keep some in the box, but rarely have I used it.
ETA: I should specify that on the 4# and 6# mono I use for my ultralights, I use Trilene XL. XT on my baitcasters (bass). XT is more abrasion resistent than XL, and it's slightly stiffer. But no where near as stiff as flouro. XL is much better on spinning reels. Less memory. If you want something in between those 2, Trilene Big Game is a good choice.
My bream/crappie ultralights have 4 or 6lb mono.
Fluorocarbon is good for certain applications. Especially in ultra clear water, or when you need the line to sink. I keep some in the box, but rarely have I used it.
ETA: I should specify that on the 4# and 6# mono I use for my ultralights, I use Trilene XL. XT on my baitcasters (bass). XT is more abrasion resistent than XL, and it's slightly stiffer. But no where near as stiff as flouro. XL is much better on spinning reels. Less memory. If you want something in between those 2, Trilene Big Game is a good choice.
This post was edited on 2/15/15 at 6:19 pm
Posted on 2/15/15 at 5:48 pm to Citica8
quote:Except I use mono for all cranks except DEEP crank with flouro because it sinks and Square bills with braid for the action ricocheting off stumps. The mono stretches and helps prevent from a fishing pulling the treble hooks out.
Braid on top water (frogs) and heavy cover (jigs and punching rigs). It floats and no stretch so also most sensitive, but easier for fish to see.
Fluorocarbon on hard plastics (crank baits, rat-l-traps) and flipping rigs (beavers and crawfish) and weightless soft plastics (senkos and flukes). It sinks the best, less visible, and less stretch, but will fray and weaken over time with hook set/catches.
Mono is on one of my rod and reels but I don't know what was tied on last. Usually a spinnerbait, chatter bait, crankbait, pop-r, or swim bait. It's on a rod that's not really used often and that bait gets changed throughout the day most of the time. Pretty much mono is a good bait if you don't have a dedicated style on that rod and reel setup.
Posted on 2/15/15 at 6:11 pm to 007mag
I've never used braid on square bills, but to be honest I don't throw them often enough. I'm usually fishing soft plastics, and I spend to much time trying to hit every cypress tree then covering water and moving without getting bites.
Most of the places I fish are shallow though, so I don't throw my "5-6XDs" very often.
Most of the places I fish are shallow though, so I don't throw my "5-6XDs" very often.
Posted on 2/15/15 at 6:20 pm to Citica8
I fish Bandit 100 and 200 on mono. When a fish bites I just notice the vibration stop and feel the rod load up. I also use medium action rod to absorb that surge right at the boat and keep the trebles hooked up.
Posted on 2/15/15 at 6:51 pm to 007mag
I like the sensitivity of braid but I can't get a good knot with it.
I use flouro on almost every thing except spinner baits, which I use mono for the stretch.
I use flouro on almost every thing except spinner baits, which I use mono for the stretch.
Posted on 2/15/15 at 7:04 pm to The Torch
I've gone back to almost 100% mono. I'll use a fluoro leader from tome to time, but refuse to cast it. Braid now only if I go frogging.
Posted on 2/15/15 at 7:36 pm to The Torch
I use 30 and 50 lb orange or yellow braid on my flipping rods. take a black sharpie and color the line from the bait up about two feet. been using braid for several years .
use braid on jig poles for perch too
use braid on jig poles for perch too
Posted on 2/15/15 at 7:53 pm to Kashmir
quote:
ake a black sharpie and color the line from the bait up about two feet.
I am going with no fluoro leader on my 50# braid this year. Heavy rod used for frogs 99% of the time along with the occasional jig.
I have been reading about using sharpie on the line. Is it to break up the way the line looks?
Posted on 2/15/15 at 8:34 pm to SportTiger1
quote:
I like the sensitivity of braid but I can't get a good knot with it
Never had that problem with braid. Don't cinch it down so tight. Use a Palomer or snell knot. Only time it's a PITA is when I have bait keeper hook
Posted on 2/15/15 at 10:42 pm to Polar Pop
yeah, just to darken the brightness of the line I use
Posted on 2/15/15 at 10:47 pm to The Torch
I only use braid on frogs or fishing real heavy cover and it's usually 65lb.
Posted on 2/16/15 at 4:30 am to Citica8
quote:
Braid on top water (frogs) and heavy cover (jigs and punching rigs). It floats and no stretch so also most sensitive, but easier for fish to see.
Fluorocarbon on hard plastics (crank baits, rat-l-traps) and flipping rigs (beavers and crawfish) and weightless soft plastics (senkos and flukes). It sinks the best, less visible, and less stretch, but will fray and weaken over time with hook set/catches.
This is why I love these threads. Why is that, Sheriff? Well, Barney, because there are no absolutes in fishing.
Very important to retie knots on baits from time to time, regardless of type of line.
Wow, I have lost several huge bass (in my mind one was at least a 10 pounder) on Toledo (Slaughter Creek area) years ago because I failed to retie. Again, in my mind that's what I blamed the broken line and lost bass on each time.
Topwater fishing - frogs over grass = braid, IMO. Visibility or sensitivity = mox nix. 30 or 50 lb. test = a must (6/30 or 12/50 braid). Same with other baits in heavy cover (bottom, otherwise).
Conversely, frogs over open water = mono, IMO. Same with stop-n-go floating topwaters. Braid may be too visible. Mono or fluoro not so much.
Faster moving baits (crank baits, floater/divers) do not need to have completely invisible line tied to them, IMO. Braid would work just fine. So would mono or fluoro.
Braid definitely works for jigs and Texas or Carolina rigged plastics, since it gives you a great feel just before you need to set the hook.
Still, mono or fluoro would work for these bottom rigs almost as well, especially with carbon fiber rods. I think many people forget just how much more sensitive carbon fiber rods are compared to fiberglass rods (used in my era), regardless of braid, mono or fluoro line...
Slow sinking Senkos or similar - clear mono or fluoro is the choice, IMO, since line visibility is critical.
So many choice. So many choices. I grew up on mono. As AlxTgr posted, mono works for almost everything.
Good fishing.
Posted on 2/16/15 at 6:20 am to TaserTiger
quote:IMO mono is like a bungee cord as a mainline for Carolina rig. On a carolina rig I prefer Heavy braid for my main line then a flouro leader if I want the soft plastic dragging on bottom or a mono leader if I want it floating and fluttering a few inches above bottom. The braid mainline is sensitive enough to feel bites on long cast and strong enough to get my expensive arse 1/2-3/4oz Tunsgsten sinker back if I hang up.
Braid definitely works for jigs and Texas or Carolina rigged plastics,....Still, mono or fluoro would work for these bottom rigs
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