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Started By
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Anyone ever rebuild a drill battery pack?
Posted on 8/6/14 at 9:02 am
Posted on 8/6/14 at 9:02 am
I have my Dewalt pack torn down and it looks pretty simple to do if i could buy those thin flat strips of metal to solder all the batteries together with. Also,these things are the size of c cell batteries but way shorter. Any idea what class of batteries these are? I'm pretty sure they're NICAD OR NIHMI.
This post was edited on 8/6/14 at 9:04 am
3
Posted on 8/6/14 at 9:48 am to meauxjeaux2
I wouldn't say that I've "rebuilt" one, but I did have a pack that stopped working because one of the strips came loose. I just soldered it back down and the pack worked again.
Not sure what class the cells are or if they can even be purchased.
Not sure what class the cells are or if they can even be purchased.
Posted on 8/6/14 at 9:50 am to meauxjeaux2
The battery pack should say what they are. They could be NIMH, or maybe LiFe.
Really though... battery packs are just not that expensive man.
Really though... battery packs are just not that expensive man.
This post was edited on 8/6/14 at 9:51 am
Posted on 8/6/14 at 9:53 am to SG_Geaux
quote:this pac,refurb is around 35-40$. I can get an arse load of those batteries new for like $20
Really though... battery packs are just not that expensive man.
Posted on 8/6/14 at 9:55 am to meauxjeaux2
Ah, so you're wanting to get into the pack refurb business, I take it?
Posted on 8/6/14 at 10:24 am to meauxjeaux2
It is probably NiCad. Just buy new batteries. They ain't expensive anymore. I moved up to lithium 
Posted on 8/6/14 at 1:31 pm to Hu_Flung_Pu
I got some cheap Black and Decker 18 volt tools. I buy the Harbor Freight 18 volt battery for $10. The batteries in the Harbor Freight battery fit nicely in the B&D battery housing with just a couple of solder joints.
Posted on 8/6/14 at 4:24 pm to meauxjeaux2
meaux what I have done is verify the polarity with a multi meter and flash charge them with a normal battery charger set on a high amp setting. After doing this, recharge as normal. I am not getting into it too deep here but you can find videos online. Just make sure to wear glasses if you try this out.
Posted on 8/6/14 at 4:29 pm to meauxjeaux2
You plan on using this to power your wife's new sex toy?
Might want her to work on her kegel between sessions .
This post was edited on 8/6/14 at 4:30 pm
Posted on 8/6/14 at 4:32 pm to junkfunky
i've been afraid to actually try this..considering upgrading my dewalt from the shitty 18v nicads to 20v lion instead of trying to coax a nicad back to life and probably blow myself up in the process.
so i've budgeted going to 20v lion once my last 18v battery bites the dust instead of trying to ebay a refurb or actually take it apart
so i've budgeted going to 20v lion once my last 18v battery bites the dust instead of trying to ebay a refurb or actually take it apart
Posted on 8/8/14 at 10:21 am to ckhelm
dumb question..but can you buy an aftermarket 20v LION that will work with an 18v NICAD dewalt drill?
i mean..is the juice a function of the battery or electronics in the drill itself?
i mean..is the juice a function of the battery or electronics in the drill itself?
Posted on 8/8/14 at 10:37 am to CAD703X
Pretty sure the pack is going to supply the voltage it's capable of, and I don't think the drill will like a voltage it's not designed for.
I'm not an electrician or ee or anything, but I believe supplying too LOW a voltage can result in a device drawing more amps than it's designed for in order to reach the desired wattage. This can result in overheating and failure.
If you supply too HIGH a voltage, I think this can push too many amps, also resulting in overheating and failure.
Or, more likely, the drill checks the voltage and will refuse to work. I think.
Anybody smarter than me around to correct me?
I'm not an electrician or ee or anything, but I believe supplying too LOW a voltage can result in a device drawing more amps than it's designed for in order to reach the desired wattage. This can result in overheating and failure.
If you supply too HIGH a voltage, I think this can push too many amps, also resulting in overheating and failure.
Or, more likely, the drill checks the voltage and will refuse to work. I think.
Anybody smarter than me around to correct me?
Posted on 8/8/14 at 11:02 am to Korkstand
quote:
Or, more likely, the drill checks the voltage and will refuse to work. I think.
or i destroy my drill.
ok, so i need to suck it up and go for a 20v lion.
when i bought this last drillset it was > $200 and i remember being frustrated that there wasn't an LION option at the time..i knew damn good & well the NIMH/NICAD shite would die over time.
Posted on 8/8/14 at 11:15 am to CAD703X
quote:do not use Lithium in a drill not designed for it. They have circuitry built in to shut off before the battery discharges too much.That is what kills lithium,discharging too much.
dumb question..but can you buy an aftermarket 20v LION that will work with an 18v NICAD dewalt drill?
i mean..is the juice a function of the battery or electronics in the drill itself?
Posted on 8/8/14 at 1:06 pm to meauxjeaux2
You can't use it anyway. The nicads go in vertically, the lithiums go in horizontally. They did it on purpose.
Go to Costco and get their 20v max dewalt set it's 229 and it's dewalts top drills. Amazing drill.
I paid 299 at Lowes for the same set.
Go to Costco and get their 20v max dewalt set it's 229 and it's dewalts top drills. Amazing drill.
I paid 299 at Lowes for the same set.
This post was edited on 8/8/14 at 1:07 pm
Posted on 8/8/14 at 1:09 pm to Hu_Flung_Pu
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