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Mechanical Help 2003 Chevy Silverado 1500HD
Posted on 5/12/14 at 4:03 pm
Posted on 5/12/14 at 4:03 pm
Need the following done on my truck. Anyone have any recommendations on a good Mechanic in Lafayette, and preferably one that has a cash discount policy.
Replace Lower and upper fron ball joints
Replace Left and right inner tie rod ends
Replace both front idler arms and pitman arms.
I was quoted roughly $2300 by Firestone.
Any help appreciated
Replace Lower and upper fron ball joints
Replace Left and right inner tie rod ends
Replace both front idler arms and pitman arms.
I was quoted roughly $2300 by Firestone.
Any help appreciated
11
Posted on 5/12/14 at 4:08 pm to ThatsAFactJack
That's a lot of fricking work. So it doesn't sound like a horrible price imo
Posted on 5/12/14 at 4:11 pm to ThatsAFactJack
Changing factory ball joints is kind of a bitch.
The rivets have to be drilled out, the heads chiseled off, and the rest punched out with an air hammer. It can be a major problem.
The pitman arm can be a pain in the arse as well if it doesn't cooperate.
That whole job is a bitch. Tie rod ends is the only easy part.
The rivets have to be drilled out, the heads chiseled off, and the rest punched out with an air hammer. It can be a major problem.
The pitman arm can be a pain in the arse as well if it doesn't cooperate.
That whole job is a bitch. Tie rod ends is the only easy part.
This post was edited on 5/12/14 at 4:14 pm
Posted on 5/12/14 at 4:12 pm to ThatsAFactJack
quote:
Replace Lower and upper fron ball joints
if Im not mistaken, these are an extreme PITA on the silverados.
GL with the fix, Im replacing a trans in a 10' tahoe currently
Posted on 5/12/14 at 4:13 pm to Broke
Yes it is alot of work. $1k in labor expenses. It is obvious this is the issue also because I have new tires (less then 3 months old) and the inner 1/4 on the front tires are worn down to 5/32 already bc of the sagging in the front. My options are keep replaciing tires every 6 months or get it fixed. I like not having a truck note so buying a new truck is not an option today. Truck has 123k miles and no other issues ever. Want to get to 200k before considering another note.
More or less want to make sure Firestone isnt overpricing me.
More or less want to make sure Firestone isnt overpricing me.
Posted on 5/12/14 at 4:18 pm to ThatsAFactJack
IMO the best route to go is to buy all moog parts yourself and bring them to the place and have them changed. You'll avoid the parts markup and definitely have good shite when the job is done.
Just say you bought them to do it yourself and decided to not frick with it. It's not THAT bad but it does take a while.
ETA: That price is definitely high though. Should be about $500 of parts and 4-5 hours of work with a lift and air tools.
Just say you bought them to do it yourself and decided to not frick with it. It's not THAT bad but it does take a while.
ETA: That price is definitely high though. Should be about $500 of parts and 4-5 hours of work with a lift and air tools.
This post was edited on 5/12/14 at 4:20 pm
Posted on 5/12/14 at 4:21 pm to ThatsAFactJack
quote:That price really doesn't sound too far out of line.
I was quoted roughly $2300 by Firestone.
Think of it this way: How many months truck and full coverage insurance payments would equal $2300?
Posted on 5/12/14 at 4:21 pm to ThatsAFactJack
quote:
I was quoted roughly $2300 by Firestone.
That's a relatively easy DIY job by the way. Basic tools and a few rentals from Autozone/Advanced/Pepboys/etc and maybe 3 - 4 hours if you take your time. I did upper/lower ball joints and sway bar links on my beater truck (Ranger) and the inner/outer tie rod ends on the gf's Silverado in the same afternoon. Probably spent less than $300 on both trucks.
GM needs to learn to stop putting compact truck tie-rods in their full sizes. Did outer tie-rods and new ball joints on a friends 2500 4x4 and the OEM parts are pathetic compared to Ford, Dodge, and the replacement Moog parts.
Posted on 5/12/14 at 4:27 pm to ThatsAFactJack
Damn so far I am more unsure. Half the responses are sounds about right and half are do it yourself for alot less in a few hours.
I have no mechanical skills so I wouldnt even know what parts to order to begin with.
I have no mechanical skills so I wouldnt even know what parts to order to begin with.
Posted on 5/12/14 at 4:28 pm to ThatsAFactJack
quote:
I have no mechanical skills so I wouldnt even know what parts to order to begin with.
You pretty much listed them already.
Posted on 5/12/14 at 4:29 pm to Clames
Doing the ball joints makes it take a good while longer. 8 big arse rivets per side.
This post was edited on 5/12/14 at 4:29 pm
Posted on 5/12/14 at 4:31 pm to ThatsAFactJack
Anyone have recommendations of a good mechanic in lafayette that has cash "discounts"?
Thanks.
Thanks.
Posted on 5/12/14 at 4:32 pm to ThatsAFactJack
quote:
I have no mechanical skills so I wouldnt even know what parts to order to begin with.
All moog brand:
Idler arm
Pittman arm
Two upper ball joints
Two lower ball joints
Two inner tie rod ends
Two outter tie rod ends
Tools you need:
Assortment of good drill bits
Drill
Cutting fluid
Air chisel
Air hammer
Pittman arm puller
Ball joint separator
Sockets/wrenches/pliers/beer/etc
Jacks and jack stands
Grease gun and chassis grease
Pretty sure that's what you need.
Posted on 5/12/14 at 4:35 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
All moog brand:
Idler arm
Pittman arm
Two upper ball joints
Two lower ball joints
Two inner tie rod ends
Two outter tie rod ends
Tools you need:
Assortment of good drill bits
Drill
Cutting fluid
Air chisel
Air hammer
Pittman arm puller
Ball joint separator
Sockets/wrenches/pliers/beer/etc
Jacks and jack stands
Grease gun and chassis grease
Pretty sure that's what you need
Downshift I appreciate all your info. however, I have zero confidence I could do this myself and not frick it up or kill myself. At this point I just am looking for any suggestions for a good mechanic in Lafayette that has cash prices, bc Firestone and the National chains don't.
Again thanks for the information. I just don't see myself doing it.
Posted on 5/12/14 at 4:38 pm to ThatsAFactJack
I've done it myself once and don't see myself doing it again.
Maybe you can haggle a little bit on the labor price since you know what's involved though.
Pretty much any car shop with a lift and air compressor can do the job. I'd get a directory and get a quote from every one of them. I'd say about $1000-$1250 is a fair price for the job depending on part markup.
If you plan on keeping the truck, request that they get all moog parts. It will cost more but you will likely never have to do it again.
Maybe you can haggle a little bit on the labor price since you know what's involved though.
Pretty much any car shop with a lift and air compressor can do the job. I'd get a directory and get a quote from every one of them. I'd say about $1000-$1250 is a fair price for the job depending on part markup.
If you plan on keeping the truck, request that they get all moog parts. It will cost more but you will likely never have to do it again.
Posted on 5/12/14 at 4:44 pm to ThatsAFactJack
Definitely shop around 2300 dollars is about twice what it should cost.
If you need me to I can look up the hours on the labor guide and tell you what it should be
If you need me to I can look up the hours on the labor guide and tell you what it should be
Posted on 5/12/14 at 5:21 pm to ThatsAFactJack
I did it on a Tahoe, and the parts were only like $400 from AutoZone. They all have a lifetime warranty on them. I had one outer tie rod that took a shite after a month and swapped it out for free. Only easy thing was tie rods. I drank beer and had my ex change them. Dumb broad said she wanted to work on it
Getting the ball joints separated and maneuvering to get the pitman arm out were a bitch
$2300 is ridiculous. Most shops get their parts from AutoZone, Napa, etc, and mark them up significantly. I think their quote just for tie rods was something like $800. I had it done in my driveway for under $100
Getting the ball joints separated and maneuvering to get the pitman arm out were a bitch
$2300 is ridiculous. Most shops get their parts from AutoZone, Napa, etc, and mark them up significantly. I think their quote just for tie rods was something like $800. I had it done in my driveway for under $100
Posted on 5/13/14 at 8:01 am to greasemonkey
quote:
greasemonkey
quote:
Definitely shop around 2300 dollars is about twice what it should cost.
If you need me to I can look up the hours on the labor guide and tell you what it should be
Can you look up the hours on the labor guide for the following:
Remove and replace Front ball joint lower, both
remove and replace front control arm upper, one side
remove and replace tie rod end outer both
remove and replace tie rod end inner both
remove and replace pitman arm
remove and replace idler arm
Firestone is quoting me $1002.90 for labor and it says based on menu items of a predetermined amount or the flat rate charged per Mitchell Labor Manual @ 90/hr
Posted on 5/13/14 at 9:17 am to ThatsAFactJack
I have received 2 more quotes:
National Discount Tire $1850
Allied Tire $1600
That seems more in line to whay other are saying that $2300 was too high.
Thanks to all for the input.
National Discount Tire $1850
Allied Tire $1600
That seems more in line to whay other are saying that $2300 was too high.
Thanks to all for the input.
Posted on 5/13/14 at 9:28 am to ThatsAFactJack
I dont believe firestone allows outside parts as well
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