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Random thoughts about the Napa Valley wine scene
Posted on 6/25/13 at 1:45 pm
Posted on 6/25/13 at 1:45 pm
I visited Napa Valley twice this year, in early February and again in late May. I spent a total of 5 days there on both trips, visited 15 wineries or tasting rooms, and sampled a little over 80 wines. Here are some random impressions:
1. The wines, on the whole, were better than I expected. The last time I visited Napa Valley was in 2005, and I came away disappointed back then. So generally speaking, while I wasn’t blown away by Napa Valley this year, the wines were better than I remembered them from 2005.
2. I don’t like the current trend in Napa regarding Chardonnay. The trend, according to the wineries, is toward a more Burgundian style of Chardonnay, meaning picking the grapes earlier, less secondary fermentation, less time in oak. The problem with that is that Napa Valley is not Burgundy. The soil is different, the climate is different, and the fruit is different. I think what the vintners are doing is an over-reaction to the over-oaked, overly-manipulated wines of earlier times in Napa, but they've gone too far IMO. I tasted a lot of bad chardonnay on these trips. Why not just make the wines the vineyard gives you?
3. My favorite winery, of the ones I visited, was Frank Family in Calistoga. From start to finish the wines were outstanding. And their tasting room experience is second to none. Second place goes to Cliff Lede in Yountville. This is a relatively new winery in Napa Valley, but they are making some exceptional wines. I particularly liked their Claret and their Sauvignon Blanc. The Cliff Lede 2009 Cinnamon Rhapsody was one of my favorite wines from the trip, but is a bit pricey at right around $100. Other wineries that received high marks were Plump Jack, Spring Mountain, and Chateau Montelena (although I thought the wines at Montelena were overpriced).
4. Biggest disappointment goes to Stags Leap Wine Cellars. I tasted 6 wines there, 5 cabs and one chardonnay. There was not a single wine in the lineup that I enjoyed, and that includes their $250 a bottle Cask 23 Cabernet Sauvignon.
5. While I’m not as down on Napa as I was before, I still think Sonoma is California’s best wine district right now, with the Central Coast area of California (Paso Robles, Santa Ynez, Santa Rita Hills, Happy Canyon, etc.) a close second.
1. The wines, on the whole, were better than I expected. The last time I visited Napa Valley was in 2005, and I came away disappointed back then. So generally speaking, while I wasn’t blown away by Napa Valley this year, the wines were better than I remembered them from 2005.
2. I don’t like the current trend in Napa regarding Chardonnay. The trend, according to the wineries, is toward a more Burgundian style of Chardonnay, meaning picking the grapes earlier, less secondary fermentation, less time in oak. The problem with that is that Napa Valley is not Burgundy. The soil is different, the climate is different, and the fruit is different. I think what the vintners are doing is an over-reaction to the over-oaked, overly-manipulated wines of earlier times in Napa, but they've gone too far IMO. I tasted a lot of bad chardonnay on these trips. Why not just make the wines the vineyard gives you?
3. My favorite winery, of the ones I visited, was Frank Family in Calistoga. From start to finish the wines were outstanding. And their tasting room experience is second to none. Second place goes to Cliff Lede in Yountville. This is a relatively new winery in Napa Valley, but they are making some exceptional wines. I particularly liked their Claret and their Sauvignon Blanc. The Cliff Lede 2009 Cinnamon Rhapsody was one of my favorite wines from the trip, but is a bit pricey at right around $100. Other wineries that received high marks were Plump Jack, Spring Mountain, and Chateau Montelena (although I thought the wines at Montelena were overpriced).
4. Biggest disappointment goes to Stags Leap Wine Cellars. I tasted 6 wines there, 5 cabs and one chardonnay. There was not a single wine in the lineup that I enjoyed, and that includes their $250 a bottle Cask 23 Cabernet Sauvignon.
5. While I’m not as down on Napa as I was before, I still think Sonoma is California’s best wine district right now, with the Central Coast area of California (Paso Robles, Santa Ynez, Santa Rita Hills, Happy Canyon, etc.) a close second.
This post was edited on 6/25/13 at 6:23 pm
Posted on 6/25/13 at 1:52 pm to L.A.
I enjoyed sonoma...we hit Twomey (a silver oak winery in healdsburg) first. it was nice. also hit Jacuzzi. it was very enjoyable and a fun place...still neigher topped Russian River brewerey
Posted on 6/25/13 at 1:56 pm to Tiger Ryno
Frank Family winery has done an outstanding job the last several years. Have yet to taste any of their wines/vintages that I didn't really like.
Posted on 6/25/13 at 2:00 pm to L.A.
Interesting thought about the backlash to the backlash re chardonnay. I personally dont drink enough California wines as I should, but nothing really excites me. The pinot noirs are too Syrah filled and the Cabs too alcoholic and heavy handed. This is a generalization that I know is wrong.
I do like Pres'quile from Paso Robles.
I do like Pres'quile from Paso Robles.
Posted on 6/25/13 at 2:03 pm to L.A.
Good post
While I'm not nearly the connoisuer that you are, a friend introduced me to the Frank Family Cabernet a few years ago, and fell in love. But at $47 a bottle, it's just not going to be my daily drinker.
Haven't had Stagg's Leap since around 2003. It was a great cab in the late 90's too, as I recall. Why do you think they are putting out disappointing products currently?
While I'm not nearly the connoisuer that you are, a friend introduced me to the Frank Family Cabernet a few years ago, and fell in love. But at $47 a bottle, it's just not going to be my daily drinker.
Haven't had Stagg's Leap since around 2003. It was a great cab in the late 90's too, as I recall. Why do you think they are putting out disappointing products currently?
Posted on 6/25/13 at 2:09 pm to G Vice
quote:I'm stumped. Back in the day this was one of the great wineries of Napa Valley. Of course former owner and winemaker Warren Winiarski is gone, having sold the winery in 2007 for $185 million to a conglomerate, so that's the logical explanation.
Haven't had Stagg's Leap since around 2003. It was a great cab in the late 90's too, as I recall. Why do you think they are putting out disappointing products currently?
This post was edited on 6/25/13 at 2:11 pm
Posted on 6/25/13 at 2:12 pm to L.A.
Posted on 6/25/13 at 2:14 pm to L.A.
quote:
3. My favorite winery, of the ones I visited, was Frank Family in Calistoga. From start to finish the wines were outstanding. And their tasting room experience is second to none.
Agree 100% - I went to Napa for my first time in January and am very new to wine in general. I enjoyed everything I tasted here - even the Chardonnay - which I did not care for anywhere else.
Wife and I joined their wine club as well and have been happy with what we've received thus far.
Caymus Zinfandel was also one of my favorites and at around $30 a bottle at the winery was not crazy expensive like their cabs.
Posted on 6/25/13 at 2:16 pm to sapo504
quote:Same here. I thought their chardonnay was excellent and very much aganst the current trend in Napa Valley.
I enjoyed everything I tasted here - even the Chardonnay - which I did not care for anywhere else
Posted on 6/25/13 at 2:19 pm to L.A.
quote:
Sonoma Valley
I prefer the Lagunitas brewpub and Russian River brewery to the wine scene over there. The food scene is pretty sweet in Napa though.
Posted on 6/25/13 at 2:22 pm to L.A.
quote:
Central Coast area of California (Paso Robles, Santa Ynez, Santa Rita Hills, Happy Canyon, etc.) a close second.
Done this twice and had a great time both trips. I can't compare to Sonoma or Napa, but the Central Coast puts out some really good stuff.
Posted on 6/25/13 at 2:24 pm to L.A.
Napa doesn't have the diversity of soil to plant the amount of varietals Sonoma does, especially Pinot noir. Secondly the real estate in napa is very expensive. Of the wineries you've enjoyed, I would say there is much more to napa than hwy 29 or the silverado trail. Off the beaten path is where you'll find some of the best tasting rooms.
Secondly, the Burgundian driven trend is meant to be less oak usage and less malo-lactic fermentation, this wines are more food friendly and the norm for drinkers now is to go to other varietals lacking that buttery custard essence. Chardonnay was hot that way to the 50-80 year old range but the younger groups are being more adventurous with their choices and a leaner Chardonnay is a nice way to compete. You might have had some bad examples but I really enjoy quite a few made in that style. Oddly enough if you make a wine with a grapes the vineyard gave you, genuinely you would add no oak, use the native yeast, and not allow malo lactic fermentation resulting in the pure essence of the grape.
In regards to frank, they are great people especially Dennis. Stags leap wine cellars makes wine based off their name and is horrible early on. With age, those wines are great but that's not what most people expect to drink.
Finally, I live both napa and Sonoma, but if I could choose I would live in healdsburg in a second. The town center is awesome and a great place to waste a day.
Secondly, the Burgundian driven trend is meant to be less oak usage and less malo-lactic fermentation, this wines are more food friendly and the norm for drinkers now is to go to other varietals lacking that buttery custard essence. Chardonnay was hot that way to the 50-80 year old range but the younger groups are being more adventurous with their choices and a leaner Chardonnay is a nice way to compete. You might have had some bad examples but I really enjoy quite a few made in that style. Oddly enough if you make a wine with a grapes the vineyard gave you, genuinely you would add no oak, use the native yeast, and not allow malo lactic fermentation resulting in the pure essence of the grape.
In regards to frank, they are great people especially Dennis. Stags leap wine cellars makes wine based off their name and is horrible early on. With age, those wines are great but that's not what most people expect to drink.
Finally, I live both napa and Sonoma, but if I could choose I would live in healdsburg in a second. The town center is awesome and a great place to waste a day.
Posted on 6/25/13 at 2:26 pm to Burt Reynolds
quote:I've actually been to Mendoza and to me it's one of the world's great wine regions. And when you had the quality-to-price ratio into the equation, nobody is doing it better than Mendoza IMO.
Mendoza ftw
Posted on 6/25/13 at 2:30 pm to L.A.
Might be going with the family to San Fran/Wine country between Christmas and new years. Thanks for the post.
Posted on 6/25/13 at 2:30 pm to lilwineman
quote:I said that in the OP.
Secondly, the Burgundian driven trend is meant to be less oak usage and less malo-lactic fermentation,
quote:Not my point. As I said in the OP, Napa is not Burgundy. Take the fruit nature gives you and make the best wine you can make with it. Stop trying to emulate another region, especially when their terroir is competely different from yours.
Oddly enough if you make a wine with a grapes the vineyard gave you, genuinely you would add no oak, use the native yeast, and not allow malo lactic fermentation resulting in the pure essence of the grape.
Posted on 6/25/13 at 2:42 pm to CreoleGumbo
quote:
Orin Swift
Good recommendation.
You ever try The Prisoner?
Posted on 6/25/13 at 3:21 pm to L.A.
quote:
Napa is not Burgundy. Take the fruit nature gives you and make the best wine you can make with it. Stop trying to emulate another region, especially when their terroir is competely different from yours.
You'd be surprised at the number of micro-climates in the Napa Valley, along with the incredible variety in the soils from valley floor to hillsides up to Howell Mountain. The closer you get to San Pablo Bay, the cooler it is. They can do all sorts of things there, which is why the winemakers produce such an incredible variety of quality wines of different varietals. Plus there's a ton of UC Davis Oenology grads just around the corner ready to experiment.
Posted on 6/25/13 at 3:28 pm to Mung
quote:I've been drinking wines from Napa, reading about wines from Napa, and visiting wineries in Napa since 1978. Why would I be surprised?
You'd be surprised at the number of micro-climates in the Napa Valley, along with the incredible variety in the soils from valley floor to hillsides up to Howell Mountain
This post was edited on 6/25/13 at 3:31 pm
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