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Started By
Message
re: Wild Hog Round Up. pics and descriptions of traps and pigs inside.
Posted on 4/22/12 at 12:05 am to Bleeding purple
Posted on 4/22/12 at 12:05 am to Bleeding purple
That sounds like a hell of a good time to me.
1
Posted on 4/22/12 at 12:10 pm to faxis
It was a really good time. My wife killed her first animal larger than a squirrel and really enjoyed the process.
I will post some more pics later and if there is intrest will post some more info on the the traps and how we built them and what we learned.
faxis- did you ever kill the ninja pig?
I will post some more pics later and if there is intrest will post some more info on the the traps and how we built them and what we learned.
faxis- did you ever kill the ninja pig?
Posted on 4/22/12 at 3:29 pm to Bleeding purple
What was the total number of pigs taken out by the entire competition?
Posted on 4/22/12 at 3:43 pm to SteveLSU35
BP... I am in my third generation of hog traps and not really pleased with the results of any of them. Please post more info on your design especially the door. I have had little luck with a single door which it appears you are using.
Sounds like ya'll whacked em' pretty good though. Been fun following this thread!
Sounds like ya'll whacked em' pretty good though. Been fun following this thread!
Posted on 4/22/12 at 6:42 pm to Bleeding purple
makes me hungry .... 
Posted on 4/22/12 at 7:47 pm to Bleeding purple
Congratulations, BP.
Post those other photos.
Post those other photos.
Posted on 4/22/12 at 7:48 pm to Bleeding purple
4th place
Posted on 4/22/12 at 8:55 pm to SteveLSU35
Total # of pigs were 750
Posted on 4/22/12 at 8:57 pm to Bleeding purple
quote:
Total # of pigs were 750
Awesome.
Any luck getting us that helicopter?
Posted on 4/22/12 at 10:33 pm to Da Hammer
So the modifications on our traps as promised:
On all of the traps that were build with welded wire, we re-lined the traps with cattle panels on the inside making sure to tie the cattle panel down in 4 spots. Three ties spaced on each successive horizontal wire at the bottom and one tie at the top.
On the 4 field fence traps we made different modifications after they began lifting it between the T-posts and spreading the wire slightly to let the lil ones slip out. On one we simply lined it on the inside with cattle panel, on one we staked the bottom wire of the field fence wire down between every T post with metal stakes and added extra ties for the first 4 horizontal wires up on each T post, and we combined two traps by lining the inside of one with the field fence of the other being careful to overlap the gaps and added extra ties on each post.
On all traps that had trees as support we went back and wired the cattle panel or field fence to the trees instead of relying on the wire staples. We also added extra wire staples too.
Most of our traps were rigged with a re-entry door that would allow more pigs to push in after it had been triggered and shut. Some were single closure doors that dropped downward. All of the re-entry doors were rigged with trip wire triggers and all of the drop doors were root stick triggers. We found that braided brick layers nylon string worked ok for the root sticks but for the trip wires they it was to stretchy. We switched to thin solid wire with 10lb break strength and that worked well. We rigged the trip wires with a slip clip also as a second method of trigger incase the wire would not break. None of the trip wires were set off in appropriately by coons or varmints. Multiple times the root bars were set off inappropriately.
We then lost a few small piglets out of the cattle panel gaps even on the traps with 2 x 4 welded wire on the outside of the trap. Once they got through the cattle panel they could bend the other wire outward to escape. So we lined the traps with 36" high chicken wire on the inside of the traps which prevented small hog loss.
Based on this contest alone all future coral traps will be made of cattle panel with chicken wire laced on the inside or simply the more expensive utility panel which has 4" x 4" holes with T posts every 4 ft on the outside.
The one thing we are planning on adding next year to all traps on areas with cattle is barb wire across the doors so they won’t get in the trap. Once the dumb things trigger the trap they freak out and tear the traps apart.
On all of the traps that were build with welded wire, we re-lined the traps with cattle panels on the inside making sure to tie the cattle panel down in 4 spots. Three ties spaced on each successive horizontal wire at the bottom and one tie at the top.
On the 4 field fence traps we made different modifications after they began lifting it between the T-posts and spreading the wire slightly to let the lil ones slip out. On one we simply lined it on the inside with cattle panel, on one we staked the bottom wire of the field fence wire down between every T post with metal stakes and added extra ties for the first 4 horizontal wires up on each T post, and we combined two traps by lining the inside of one with the field fence of the other being careful to overlap the gaps and added extra ties on each post.
On all traps that had trees as support we went back and wired the cattle panel or field fence to the trees instead of relying on the wire staples. We also added extra wire staples too.
Most of our traps were rigged with a re-entry door that would allow more pigs to push in after it had been triggered and shut. Some were single closure doors that dropped downward. All of the re-entry doors were rigged with trip wire triggers and all of the drop doors were root stick triggers. We found that braided brick layers nylon string worked ok for the root sticks but for the trip wires they it was to stretchy. We switched to thin solid wire with 10lb break strength and that worked well. We rigged the trip wires with a slip clip also as a second method of trigger incase the wire would not break. None of the trip wires were set off in appropriately by coons or varmints. Multiple times the root bars were set off inappropriately.
We then lost a few small piglets out of the cattle panel gaps even on the traps with 2 x 4 welded wire on the outside of the trap. Once they got through the cattle panel they could bend the other wire outward to escape. So we lined the traps with 36" high chicken wire on the inside of the traps which prevented small hog loss.
Based on this contest alone all future coral traps will be made of cattle panel with chicken wire laced on the inside or simply the more expensive utility panel which has 4" x 4" holes with T posts every 4 ft on the outside.
The one thing we are planning on adding next year to all traps on areas with cattle is barb wire across the doors so they won’t get in the trap. Once the dumb things trigger the trap they freak out and tear the traps apart.
Posted on 4/22/12 at 11:57 pm to Bleeding purple
Trap doors
We had three different trap door designs on our coral traps.
The cheapest was a simple guillotine door made of 2x4 and 3/4" plywood. The only other things needed were some screws and a screw in eye bolt.
Materials
2x4 ft piece of 3/4" plywood
3/8" drill bit
2 1/4" wood screws
5- 2x4x8's
4- 1x4x8's
The white are 2x4 verticals.
The blue is the plywood
The red are 2x4 screwed on front and on back in same position
The pink is 1x4 screwed on front and back in same position.
Black dots are holes to tie the support rope too and to tie door to the T posts
The green dot is a hole drilled for a pin to keep the door open
The eyebolt lag goes at the top for the string to run through to the trigger.
The trigger mechanism is a simple root trigger built with sticks
We had three different trap door designs on our coral traps.
The cheapest was a simple guillotine door made of 2x4 and 3/4" plywood. The only other things needed were some screws and a screw in eye bolt.
Materials
2x4 ft piece of 3/4" plywood
3/8" drill bit
2 1/4" wood screws
5- 2x4x8's
4- 1x4x8's
The white are 2x4 verticals.
The blue is the plywood
The red are 2x4 screwed on front and on back in same position
The pink is 1x4 screwed on front and back in same position.
Black dots are holes to tie the support rope too and to tie door to the T posts
The green dot is a hole drilled for a pin to keep the door open
The eyebolt lag goes at the top for the string to run through to the trigger.
The trigger mechanism is a simple root trigger built with sticks
This post was edited on 4/23/12 at 12:29 am
Posted on 4/23/12 at 10:19 am to Bleeding purple
some updated pictures
I'll post some more later
I'll post some more later
This post was edited on 4/23/12 at 12:22 pm
Posted on 4/23/12 at 12:56 pm to Bleeding purple
quote:
Bleeding purple
Good to see you back.
Heading down to our place next month for a hog-fest.
Posted on 4/23/12 at 1:35 pm to ccomeaux
Glad to be back,
Here are the plans for the other two trap door designs I built for our corals.
This is the walk through door design that I liked the most. It allows for the door to be propped open and then triggered by a trip wire. After it closes the pigs can still push in but not push out.
I made them out of some discount shelving I found really cheap at Lowes and some cattle panel welded on. Really though it is a pretty simple design consisting of a short wall with hinged door in the center. The outside of the door is blocked with angle iron at the top and the bottom to prevent it from being pushed outward. The springs that close the door are from a trampoline the neighbor had.
In the first drawing the red represents the hinges and the angle iron at the top and the bottom of the frame. Note, the angle iron is only welded to the two side walls not the swinging door as indicated by the thin red lines. The blue represents the spring which is attached to the left side wall and then the door like a standard fence gate. There is a side view so you can see that the spring is on the outside of the door and the hinges on the inside. The door swings to the inside of the trap.
The second is a picture of the actual door with the hinges marked with red arrows, the spring with a blue arrow, the trip wire in pink, and the bottom angle iron with a green arrow.
We drove a stake in the ground to prevent the door from opening beyond 90 degrees. This was so the trip wire had a ridged endpoint to pull against. We tied the trip wire (10 lb load solid wire) to one of these:
and slipped it on to the wire of the cattle panel at the top of the door. then it was routed through a welded ring at two different T posts each progressively lower than the first
and finally tied to a T post at 3" above the ground so that there was space between the wall of the corral and the last segment of the trip wire. We bait heavy under and behind the wire and spread the corn out all over the coral otherwise. The idea was that they would pull the clip off the door with the trip wire but in reality we found they just snap the trip wire. It is good to have a fail safe if the wire does not snap though. DO NOT BAIT DIRECTLY BEHIND THE DOOR OF THE TRAP. a pig will come in and root the door closed before others get in large numbers.
If you want to hold the door open for pre- baiting or when you are not running the trap (remember they could push in and get trapped even if you don't intend them to) you need to wire it up high were the pigs can not get to the wire.
The last design is a simple root door the works on the same premise. It allows for the door to be propped open and then triggered by a trip wire. After it closes the pigs can still push in but not push out.
I will add descriptions and pics in a lil bit.
Here are the plans for the other two trap door designs I built for our corals.
This is the walk through door design that I liked the most. It allows for the door to be propped open and then triggered by a trip wire. After it closes the pigs can still push in but not push out.
I made them out of some discount shelving I found really cheap at Lowes and some cattle panel welded on. Really though it is a pretty simple design consisting of a short wall with hinged door in the center. The outside of the door is blocked with angle iron at the top and the bottom to prevent it from being pushed outward. The springs that close the door are from a trampoline the neighbor had.
In the first drawing the red represents the hinges and the angle iron at the top and the bottom of the frame. Note, the angle iron is only welded to the two side walls not the swinging door as indicated by the thin red lines. The blue represents the spring which is attached to the left side wall and then the door like a standard fence gate. There is a side view so you can see that the spring is on the outside of the door and the hinges on the inside. The door swings to the inside of the trap.
The second is a picture of the actual door with the hinges marked with red arrows, the spring with a blue arrow, the trip wire in pink, and the bottom angle iron with a green arrow.
We drove a stake in the ground to prevent the door from opening beyond 90 degrees. This was so the trip wire had a ridged endpoint to pull against. We tied the trip wire (10 lb load solid wire) to one of these:
and slipped it on to the wire of the cattle panel at the top of the door. then it was routed through a welded ring at two different T posts each progressively lower than the first
and finally tied to a T post at 3" above the ground so that there was space between the wall of the corral and the last segment of the trip wire. We bait heavy under and behind the wire and spread the corn out all over the coral otherwise. The idea was that they would pull the clip off the door with the trip wire but in reality we found they just snap the trip wire. It is good to have a fail safe if the wire does not snap though. DO NOT BAIT DIRECTLY BEHIND THE DOOR OF THE TRAP. a pig will come in and root the door closed before others get in large numbers.
If you want to hold the door open for pre- baiting or when you are not running the trap (remember they could push in and get trapped even if you don't intend them to) you need to wire it up high were the pigs can not get to the wire.
The last design is a simple root door the works on the same premise. It allows for the door to be propped open and then triggered by a trip wire. After it closes the pigs can still push in but not push out.
I will add descriptions and pics in a lil bit.
This post was edited on 4/23/12 at 3:45 pm
Posted on 4/23/12 at 3:00 pm to Bleeding purple
quote:
I will post some more pics later and if there is intrest will post some more info on the the traps and how we built them and what we learned.
there is definitely interest, post away
Posted on 4/23/12 at 6:19 pm to TexasTiger34
ok last style of door and the one I like the least at 6'5" tall.
the balck all solid metal. I used old road sign poles for the verticals and old angle iron for the horizontals. I used an old realtor sign made of square tubing for the the door. I had a bar welded on top of it for an axle and put two small lengths of pipe on each vertical for the pipe to hinge in (red). The gray is cattle panel.
The green on the bottom is the angle iron that stops the door from going forward. the green on the side view is the angle iron at the bottom again and the door stop that keeps the door from opening too far so the trip wire or root stick has a solid endpoint to pull against. In retrospect if using a root stick you don't need the door stop and it would have been easier to get in and out of the trap if I could have pulled the door all the way up to lock it open.
The pink is the wire going to the root stick.
Here is picture of the door laying on the ground prior to welding with the top of the door to the right. You can see the silver looking pipe used as a hinge on each side. to the left you can see the angle iron and how it is used to stop the door from going forward.
the balck all solid metal. I used old road sign poles for the verticals and old angle iron for the horizontals. I used an old realtor sign made of square tubing for the the door. I had a bar welded on top of it for an axle and put two small lengths of pipe on each vertical for the pipe to hinge in (red). The gray is cattle panel.
The green on the bottom is the angle iron that stops the door from going forward. the green on the side view is the angle iron at the bottom again and the door stop that keeps the door from opening too far so the trip wire or root stick has a solid endpoint to pull against. In retrospect if using a root stick you don't need the door stop and it would have been easier to get in and out of the trap if I could have pulled the door all the way up to lock it open.
The pink is the wire going to the root stick.
Here is picture of the door laying on the ground prior to welding with the top of the door to the right. You can see the silver looking pipe used as a hinge on each side. to the left you can see the angle iron and how it is used to stop the door from going forward.
This post was edited on 4/24/12 at 11:28 am
Posted on 4/24/12 at 11:35 am to Bleeding purple
The last shameless bump for those that wanted to know more about the traps.
Posted on 4/24/12 at 11:47 am to Bleeding purple
the drop doors are what I grew up using. Trying to get my Dad to start using the swing doors to allow bigger catches but he still wants to build the old school board fence small-corral type with drop doors.
Posted on 4/24/12 at 11:55 am to TigerDeacon
Nice. What was the best bait?
Posted on 4/24/12 at 12:20 pm to Nawlens Gator
We used a variety of baits.
dry deer corn
soured corn (just corn submerged in water in a plastic barrel for a few days in the sun)
and two different fruity attractants
Walmart discount brand version of Dr Pepper with strawberry jello packets mixed in, and cheap pinnapple flavored soda with rasberry jello packets mixed in. Get the sugar free jello or you will have a Mentos experiment type explosion when you add it to the soda. The pinnapple rasberry combo tasted so good I didn't really mind the one mistake explosion. 
All seemed to work well except the Dr.P imitation stuff. We started all traps with corn and soured corn but if a trap hit and then there was no activity for a few days we would add the fruit flavors.
I did try the apple flavored corn from Atwoods but saw nof difference other than price even after soaking it in apple flavored soda for a day.
I like to have some hard corn in the trap as the sound of them grinding it up can be heard for quite a distance and it seems to attract them well.
Including prebaiting and the 10 days of the contest we went through about 2000 lbs of corn
dry deer corn
soured corn (just corn submerged in water in a plastic barrel for a few days in the sun)
and two different fruity attractants
Walmart discount brand version of Dr Pepper with strawberry jello packets mixed in, and cheap pinnapple flavored soda with rasberry jello packets mixed in. Get the sugar free jello or you will have a Mentos experiment type explosion when you add it to the soda.
The pinnapple rasberry combo tasted so good I didn't really mind the one mistake explosion. All seemed to work well except the Dr.P imitation stuff. We started all traps with corn and soured corn but if a trap hit and then there was no activity for a few days we would add the fruit flavors.
I did try the apple flavored corn from Atwoods but saw nof difference other than price even after soaking it in apple flavored soda for a day.
I like to have some hard corn in the trap as the sound of them grinding it up can be heard for quite a distance and it seems to attract them well.
Including prebaiting and the 10 days of the contest we went through about 2000 lbs of corn
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