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Started By
Message
7
Posted on 9/5/11 at 10:44 pm to jthib07
Cause it is not just a leveling kit, it's also a suspension lift.
A one inch front lift would be a leveling kit. This raises the front 3" and the rear 2"
quote:
3"+ 2" Lift Leveling Kit
A one inch front lift would be a leveling kit. This raises the front 3" and the rear 2"
Posted on 9/5/11 at 10:45 pm to jthib07
Because the leveling kit will fix the stance of the truck while there isn't a trailor attached.
Once you put a trailor on, the back end of the truck will "settle," which will give the apppearance that the truck's front end is high.
Once you put a trailor on, the back end of the truck will "settle," which will give the apppearance that the truck's front end is high.
This post was edited on 9/5/11 at 10:47 pm
Posted on 9/5/11 at 10:53 pm to jthib07
I'm not a fan of the ones that come with a rear lift, seems to defeat the purpose of leveling it.
a 1.5" or 2" lift on the front only should make your truck sit pretty level. IMO.
a 1.5" or 2" lift on the front only should make your truck sit pretty level. IMO.
Posted on 9/5/11 at 10:55 pm to jthib07
Posted on 9/5/11 at 11:14 pm to zmoney2613
3" in the front would be too much?
Posted on 9/5/11 at 11:18 pm to zmoney2613
On my 2011 F150 I will be using a 2.5" front with a 1" rear. It levels the front almost level but raises the back a bit for towing. I could use a 2" front and be perfectly level but I want the extra height without losing my towing capacity.
Posted on 9/5/11 at 11:21 pm to jthib07
quote:
3" in the front would be too much?
I put a 3" on my 2wd F150 and it was too much, I needed to add a block to the rear because it squatted too much. It works for the 4x4 Fords because they have a rear block (1" I believe) from the factory.
Posted on 9/6/11 at 12:18 am to Boats n Hose
Be careful. When you raise the front end of a vehicle with simple spacers or blocks you will move the center of the front weheels slightly toward the rear of the vehicle. The more your go up the closer the front and rear wheels get to each other without mroe advanced lift kits which compensate for this by replacing the swing arms with longer versions and usually adding torsion bars.
Why does this matter?
The wheel well is designed to be centered on the wheels. When the wheels move backward it may limit the size tire you can place on the wheels since the wheelwell in now forward of center on the wheel.
I opted for no leveling kit on my Dodge due to this.
Why does this matter?
The wheel well is designed to be centered on the wheels. When the wheels move backward it may limit the size tire you can place on the wheels since the wheelwell in now forward of center on the wheel.
I opted for no leveling kit on my Dodge due to this.
Posted on 9/6/11 at 6:17 am to Bleeding purple
I got a 2008 Gmc 4x4 with a 2.5 front level kit and it sits perject. I got 20'' stock rims with 275/60 copper zeon ltz tires and they fill it out nicely.
Posted on 9/6/11 at 7:17 am to jthib07
quote:
3" in the front would be too much?
Way too much. The 2.5 kit makes your truck really level, the only bad thing is if you put something behind there the front end is going way up. The one I put, the front end still goes down but its not bad at all. When I load up my bike the front end doesn't come up too bad. I'll take a pic at lunch and put it up.
Posted on 9/6/11 at 7:53 am to jthib07
BP, I think the particular issue you are talking about is only true with straight axle front ends. I'm not positive though.
They come with a rear lift because it is a suspension lift kit. If you just want to level it, get a set of those 2" coil spacers.
They come with a rear lift because it is a suspension lift kit. If you just want to level it, get a set of those 2" coil spacers.
Posted on 9/6/11 at 8:00 am to jthib07
I have a 2-1/2" ready lift leveling kit on my 2008 2500HD. 
Running 285/75/16 Goodyear Duratracs on stock wheels. I do have rubbing at full lock on the drivers side.
Running 285/75/16 Goodyear Duratracs on stock wheels. I do have rubbing at full lock on the drivers side.Posted on 9/6/11 at 9:47 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
BP, I think the particular issue you are talking about is only true with straight axle front ends. I'm not positive though
no it has to do with the attachment point of the wheel support structures. Most trucks either straight axle or independent will have the support structures attach at a pivot point essentially under the firewall of the engine bay. with a shock and spring vertical over the wheel.
If you raise the front with a spring spacer (the most common type) then you are pushing the wheel down and back based on that pivot point.
Posted on 9/6/11 at 9:50 am to Bleeding purple
I have a straight axle on my Jeep, and used to have 2.5" spacers (now have 3" coils) and it shifted my entire axle to the drivers side just a little, which affected driveline angles and tire wear. The solution for my jeep was an Adjustable trac bar that realigned the front it. Good as new now.
Posted on 9/6/11 at 10:00 am to Bleeding purple
I figured since the A-arms on an IFS setup are hooked directly to the frame behind the wheel, that they would only move up and down, and not front to back, since They're rotating in a plane perpendicular to the tire rather than parallel to it like on a straight axle setup. I could see how they would rotate back if the arms were not square with the frame though. I've never looked that close at them. I just figured the were square.
Posted on 9/6/11 at 10:12 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
I just figured the were square.
I did too about 6 months ago but learned that, on my dodge at least which is not a solid front axle, the attachement to the frame is slightly behind the center of the wheel. Im sure each make/model is different.
Posted on 9/6/11 at 10:12 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
I'm not sure. My toe in/toe out was all jacked up and I had to get a $120 set of adjustable camber bolts to get it aligned right after I installed it. Right now I have 285/70r17 Destination AT's, and it's only rubbed a couple times when I turned the wheel hard right and stomped it while on an incline.
Posted on 9/6/11 at 10:13 am to Ice Cream Sammich
quote:
On my 2011 F150 I will be using a 2.5" front with a 1" rear. It levels the front almost level but raises the back a bit for towing. I could use a 2" front and be perfectly level but I want the extra height without losing my towing capacity.
Let us know how that works out. What kind of kit are you planning on using?
Posted on 9/6/11 at 10:16 am to Bleeding purple
Well I'll be damned. I wonder why it's like that. I'll have to do some internet research on ifs geometry later today.
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