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re: Wood working question- Update: Finished pics on page 3
Posted on 6/19/14 at 12:22 pm to Shexter
Posted on 6/19/14 at 12:22 pm to Shexter
How has no one mentioned the most dangerous saw in wood shop?
The radial arm saw.
They make very nice sliding miter saws now that combine the precision of a compound miter saw and the capacity of a radial arm saw and they even come with cut mark lazer indicators that reduce the chance of cutting your arm off. You will need to take a 7x9" block in to assure capacity though.
The radial arm saw.
They make very nice sliding miter saws now that combine the precision of a compound miter saw and the capacity of a radial arm saw and they even come with cut mark lazer indicators that reduce the chance of cutting your arm off. You will need to take a 7x9" block in to assure capacity though.
1
Posted on 6/19/14 at 12:33 pm to Bleeding purple
Thanks for all the responses. Got several ideas I'm going to try out see which works the best. Got the beams milled today down to 6x8. My miter saw should be able to handle that. The length of the beams is an issue cause they are heavy. Rigged up a stand with some rollers that will help roll the beams into place after each cut.
I am going to need to find some quality blades cause this stuff is hard. Couldn't cut thru it with a sawzall.
I'll take pictures of my progress and post them up when I get finished.
I am going to need to find some quality blades cause this stuff is hard. Couldn't cut thru it with a sawzall.
I'll take pictures of my progress and post them up when I get finished.
Posted on 6/19/14 at 1:26 pm to GoldenSombrero
quote:
The length of the beams is an issue cause they are heavy.
If you cut them in half, they will probably weigh about half the weight...
Posted on 6/19/14 at 1:35 pm to Shexter
No crap, a radial arm saw is what you need.
Using a band saw would be a bitch.
Using a band saw would be a bitch.
Posted on 6/19/14 at 4:03 pm to poochie
Just use your miter saw. Sliding miter saw would be better. Just use a stop on the fence that's the thickness that you need. Slide the wood to the srop, cut, flip and cut again.
But you really need a stop on your fence to keep the thickness the same every cut.
But you really need a stop on your fence to keep the thickness the same every cut.
Posted on 6/19/14 at 11:38 pm to bbvdd
In case anyone was wondering the biggest DeWalt miter saw they have at Lowes won't cut clear thru a 6x8 beam. 
On to plan B
On to plan B
This post was edited on 6/19/14 at 11:51 pm
Posted on 6/20/14 at 6:52 am to GoldenSombrero
How thick do you plan on the final tiles being? Sanding growth rings is a major pain in the arse. If those tiles are not thick enough they will break apart due to lack of cohesion between the rings.
Posted on 6/20/14 at 7:03 am to Creamer
I wouldn't sand shite until after install. Belt sander and heavy coats of urathane after.
Posted on 6/20/14 at 7:40 am to Creamer
quote:
How thick do you plan on the final tiles being? Sanding growth rings is a major pain in the arse. If those tiles are not thick enough they will break apart due to lack of cohesion between the rings.
1/2" thick. They will be sanded on the floor after gluing down. That should keep them together, hopefully.
Posted on 6/20/14 at 7:55 am to GoldenSombrero
Makita 16" beam saw, I think they are $700 though 
might be able to rent one
might be able to rent one
Posted on 6/20/14 at 8:59 am to GoldenSombrero
I would do a small test section before you try the whole floor. Just use a skill saw to cut a few and finish them. Use it as a doormat for a couple of weeks to see how it holds up.
Posted on 6/20/14 at 9:06 am to GoldenSombrero
I'd check to see if an abrasive, metal cutoff saw has enough capacity. Just replace the blade. I have a Harbor Freight model that was around $100 and it has at least a 14" blade. There are also masonry cutting chop saws that will cut cinder blocks, but those are probably expensive.
Posted on 6/20/14 at 9:41 am to GoldenSombrero
This is something I would not do.
I worke din a saw mill/ lumber yard for quite a while. When you start getting into the board, you will start seeing splits and stuff that are going to make you regret this. SAnding is going to be too much work if it doesnt rip the wood apart. If I were you I would go have tounge and groove made out of it or Philly strips. You can have that run through a planer and the size will be uniform and ready to glue and tack down.
I worke din a saw mill/ lumber yard for quite a while. When you start getting into the board, you will start seeing splits and stuff that are going to make you regret this. SAnding is going to be too much work if it doesnt rip the wood apart. If I were you I would go have tounge and groove made out of it or Philly strips. You can have that run through a planer and the size will be uniform and ready to glue and tack down.
Posted on 6/20/14 at 9:46 am to hardhead
quote:
I worke din a saw mill/ lumber yard for quite a while. When you start getting into the board, you will start seeing splits and stuff that are going to make you regret this. SAnding is going to be too much work if it doesnt rip the wood apart. If I were you I would go have tounge and groove made out of it or Philly strips. You can have that run through a planer and the size will be uniform and ready to glue and tack down.
I agree, this has cluster frick written all over it...
Posted on 6/20/14 at 9:52 am to GoldenSombrero
Als looking at the grain, you will get some pretty awesome tiger stripe looking features so the floor will look really good. You will see a lot of quartersawn features in those pieces of lumber.
the cracks worry me though, how many sq ft are you looking to cover?
the cracks worry me though, how many sq ft are you looking to cover?
Posted on 6/20/14 at 10:43 am to hardhead
quote:
the cracks worry me though, how many sq ft are you looking to cover?
Yeah there will be some cracks. I'm going to fill the cracks and joints with a mixture of sawdust and wood glue to make a grout. I'm only doing 120 sqft so not too much.
I've seen it done before and looks awesome so hopefully it turns out. Old factories use to use end grain blocks for flooring because of its strength.
Posted on 6/20/14 at 10:49 am to GoldenSombrero
One thing you have going for you is the age of the beams. They should be stable so less cracking...
Posted on 6/20/14 at 12:20 pm to GoldenSombrero
quote:
I'm going to fill the cracks and joints with a mixture of sawdust and wood glue to make a grout.
Epoxy would work much, much better.
Posted on 6/20/14 at 4:51 pm to bbvdd
I agree, but I also agree with Headhead.
This post was edited on 6/20/14 at 4:53 pm
Posted on 6/20/14 at 7:36 pm to Sparkplug#1
Do not attempt to do this those beams are already checking the tiles will fall apart that is a shite pile of work for a floor that is not that stable
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