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Suppressor? Direct thread or ....?
Posted on 4/25/24 at 2:17 pm
Posted on 4/25/24 at 2:17 pm
Just got approved for my first one, going to pick it up this weekend. Putting it on a bolt action rifle, but may want to switch back and forth to another gun. Should i just direct thread it or is there a reason to do something else?
10
Posted on 4/25/24 at 2:28 pm to nolaks
I have QD on all of mine except .22 cans and my newest which will live on my AR with a thermal.
If I had it to do all over again, not sure which way I'd lean. Might just get direct thread.
If I had it to do all over again, not sure which way I'd lean. Might just get direct thread.
Posted on 4/25/24 at 2:49 pm to nolaks
SilencerCo Bravo / ASR mount is what i have
This post was edited on 4/25/24 at 2:50 pm
Posted on 4/25/24 at 4:38 pm to nolaks
For my Silencerco Omegas I use a Plan B adapter and Rearden muzzle breaks. The plan B system is one of the best. Easy on and easy off.
Posted on 4/25/24 at 6:14 pm to nolaks
I didn’t want the extra weight. Direct thread.
Posted on 4/25/24 at 6:45 pm to nolaks
I like direct thread because I am not switching from gun to gun at a fast pace. Easy enough to twist it off and twist it on another one.
Posted on 4/25/24 at 6:56 pm to nolaks
For those of y'all who thread on/off, do y'all use crush washers/shims or just crank it tight?
Posted on 4/25/24 at 7:39 pm to nolaks
I like quick detach for my ARs and such because they double as a muzzle brake or flash hider.
I've got the area 419 system for my bolt guns barrels. That way I can put one of their brakes on the rifle or take it off and use the silencer.
I've got the area 419 system for my bolt guns barrels. That way I can put one of their brakes on the rifle or take it off and use the silencer.
Posted on 4/25/24 at 11:58 pm to MoarKilometers
quote:
For those of y'all who thread on/off, do y'all use crush washers/shims or just crank it tight?
Crush washer if the firearm has one, if not, tighten it down.
Posted on 4/26/24 at 11:38 am to MoarKilometers
quote:
For those of y'all who thread on/off, do y'all use crush washers/shims or just crank it tight?
Why would you need a crush washer? They're for proper positioning a flash hider.
Only ever seen to torque to 20-30ft lbs
Posted on 4/26/24 at 12:29 pm to nolaks
quote:
I like quick detach for my ARs and such because they double as a muzzle brake or flash hider.
This, but I found out quickly , swapping a red hot can from gun to gun is not fun, better have hightemp gloves and space age glue on your ASR.
Posted on 4/26/24 at 12:39 pm to nolaks
Direct thread is the best option for most people. Lighter, cheaper, repeatable, very secure if you torque it down, less tolerance stacking.
Never ever use a crush washer with a silencer. Recipe for baffle strike.
Never ever use a crush washer with a silencer. Recipe for baffle strike.
Posted on 4/26/24 at 2:26 pm to nolaks
When I first started running a suppressor, I used direct thread to use a SilencerCo Harvester on 3 different guns on prairie dog hunts. Attaching and reattaching wasn't that big a deal. I use direct thread for 2 rimfire cans. I just picked up my third centerfire can (Yankee Hill Turbo RK). I shot it for the first time last night and attached it to the factory muzzle break. I still use direct thread for everything else. I attached it to the factory muzzle break as it looked like there was info suggesting doing so might decrease wear and tear on the suppressor. I'm not convinced there's much to the argument. Generally, I still favor direct thread.
Posted on 4/26/24 at 2:38 pm to MoarKilometers
quote:
For those of y'all who thread on/off, do y'all use crush washers/shims or just crank it tight?
I’ve always been told never use a crush washer because the muzzle device will come loose.
Shims are fine for properly clocking a muzzle brake because you’re still torquing the brake.
3 or 4 prong flash hiders don’t need clocking so shims aren’t necessary. Torque the flash hider down tight and run it.
ETA: most people use rocksette as a thread locker as well. It’s better than red loctite because it only requires boiled water for removal. Some muzzle device suppliers supply it with their kits, i.e. silencerco.
This post was edited on 4/26/24 at 2:41 pm
Posted on 4/26/24 at 5:49 pm to finchmeister08
quote:
I’ve always been told never use a crush washer because the muzzle device will come loose.
A muzzle device actually stays on with a crush washer as the pressure from the tension of the washer pushing up keeps forward pressure on the shoulder of the muzzle device. The problem with crush washers is that they dont crush evenly and you introduce an angle from the shoulder to the exit of the bore of the muzzle device. On something short with a large bore like a flash hider or brake, it wont matter. On something long with a tighter bore, the angle is more pronounced as you get closer to the end of the silencer and you can induce a baffle strike.
Posted on 4/26/24 at 6:16 pm to ChatRabbit77
This just happened to me with an out of square jam nut. Was barely grazing the end cap but poi was off with the can by a ton and on without. I removed the jam nut and tightened brake to manufacture specs and now it’s on with both.
Posted on 4/26/24 at 6:43 pm to Success
Ya, always use a peel washer when it comes to that stuff and if you can find someone to check it with an alignment rod.
Posted on 4/26/24 at 7:28 pm to kengel2
I disagree. Peel washers are a pain in the arse. Precision Armament Accuwashers or Forward Controls Nautilus.
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