re: Savage B-MAG .17WSM

I think the Savage is one of 2 models offered. The others a $1500 single shot.

I have a Ruger 77/17 in the 17 HMR. I like it. I wish ruger made the WSM.

ST,
Just curious, but did the rings in the first pic come w/ the rifle? The scope sure is close to the barrel in the front and the bolt at the rear. I have a Ruger 77/22 whose factory supplied rings were so low that bolt hit the rear ocular of the Simmons 4-14X scope I mounted on it. I ended up having to buy a set of high rings to properly mount the scope.

Yeah, thought it looked pretty close.... Let us know how it shoots. I'm really thinking about getting one at some point. If you have any accuracy issues, you might think about a higher set of rings, just in case you're getting any vibration of the barrel into the rings after the shot. I've read of that lately, but haven't read of it elsewhere to know whether it's real or not (although it does sound plausible....).

our walmart is stocked with the ammo and has plenty every time i go in

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It's my understanding, as I was told long ago, that the scope should be as physically close to the gun as clearance allows. This puts it more online with the barrel and minimizes the window(at near targets especially)where scope and barrel are not on the same plane.

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AUTimbo,
That's always been my understanding, as well. Consequently, I've always mount my scopes very close to the barrel/receiver.

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Of course I would imagine receiver harmonics at the shot could be an issue here but other than possibly loosening screws/rings, etc. it should have no impact on the shot itself

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I don't think I explained very well the theory I'd recently read. IIRC, the idea of the author was that if the scope is mounted too close to the barrel, w/ the shot, the natural harmonic motion of the barrel may allow the barrel to impact the objective bell of the scope; if so, this would alter the natural harmonics of the barrel and be bad for accuracy. I don't recall where I read this and I don't really know if it's true. I was reminded of the theory by the OP's pic. May not be anything to worry about, but thought I'd mention it as a possibility if the gun ends up not shooting as well as hoped for.

Makes sense in that respect

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The clearance is at least 3/8 inch.

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You should be ok. Let us know how it shoots when you get it up and running.

Will do. This is the first scoped rifle I have owned. I am familiar with the workings of adjusting the scope "cross hairs" having friends who have owned scopes. However, if I want a 100 yd zero, should I start at 100 yds? Scope is bore sighted. Or start at say 50 yds or less, just to be sure I am hitting the target? I am an old iron sights shooter and that is how I zero my groupings. Zeroed my Mossberg 590A-1, with ghost ring sights, similar to that-25 then 50 yds. At the bench with 1 oz slugs, it will blow away the center at 50 yds. Again, never have zeroed a scoped weapon. Appreciate any advice.

definately start at 25 yards and with a vice if available. i would try and get it on paper at 25, not so much dead nuts dialed in, but if you must, try and be around a 1/2 inch low to dead center.

let the gun rest for a little while,(depending upon schedule)say 15 mins.
then back it up to 50. by looking at the ballistic chart for the 20 grain 17wsm, a 50 yard shot is pretty damn close to the same at 100. it says to be .2 in low to achieve a 100 yard zero, which is kind of splitting hairs.

once you get this, let it rest again for a few. at this point you should be pretty damn close to your 100 yard zero. see what the wind is doing. try and pick a time where its not too windy. i wouldnt go to screwing too much with the left/right at 100, so long as you are grouping tight. If you have to move it over or up/down, check the setting on your scope and notate the moa per click(usually .25 inches at 100 yards). shoot 3 shots at a fresh target before you adjust your scope to account for the possibility of human error.

once you have this down and you feel comfortable you should memorize or print out ballistics for all shots over 100 yards if you intend on making these type shots. example:
150 yards is a 1.2 inch holdover
200 yards is 4 inch
300 yards is 16 inch

I do not own this rifle/caliber, but i am extremely intrigued of the velocity and energy it is capable of, even at the heavier 25 grain bullet.

Good advice about zeroing it. I'd start at 25 yds. Since the rounds are roughly 3000 fps, dead on at 25 yds will prolly put it bout 3" high at 100. Don't fine tune it at 25 or 50 yds. You'll prolly want it 1.5-2" high at 100 yds. Be sure there's NO wind or you'll burn ammo needlessly and get VERY frustrated. 17's are VERY susceptible to the wind. The main thing.........go shoot it and enjoy it!!