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Posted on 3/30/14 at 1:25 am to Hammertime
quote:
Costs $15 and can tell you if something is wrong with your engine internally by just sending them a little vile full of used oil. That information could help prevent a catastrophic failure
And what...if they find heightened oevels of wear metals....are you really going to pull the motor down to change the main bearings...or mereky wait until it grenades and rebuid.
If your head gasket is beginning to go and they detect coolant...how many people pull the heads and swap gaskets before a blowout?
If they detect higher levels of silicon...whoops ran a k&n filter and sand got in.
Sorry...people who do maintenance dont need used oil analysis or oil flushes. There is simply no need, no matter what the self appointed high post count oligarchs may preach on bobistheoilguy.
The problems the oil analysis finds are never simple fixes.
I realize we have a difference of opinion here...but I do my own work...and a used oil analysis would tell me absolutely nothing that I didnt already know from any sounds, vibration, exhaust smell, blowby, power loss, or compression/leak down test.
As for auto rx, be it a motor with a known history, or a motor with definite sludge... I prefer the slow cleaning of good oil to that of solvents. Oil rings can actually GET coked up if the deposits bounce into the wrong area.
Posted on 3/30/14 at 6:31 am to SuzukiGoat
quote:
And what...if they find heightened oevels of wear metals....are you really going to pull the motor down to change the main bearings...or mereky wait until it grenades and rebuid.
If your head gasket is beginning to go and they detect coolant...how many people pull the heads and swap gaskets before a blowout?
If they detect higher levels of silicon...whoops ran a k&n filter and sand got in.
Sorry...people who do maintenance dont need used oil analysis or oil flushes. There is simply no need, no matter what the self appointed high post count oligarchs may preach on bobistheoilguy.
The problems the oil analysis finds are never simple fixes.
I like this post. One thing I would like to add is that oil analysis isn't very useful without having them run over the lifespan of the engine. You need baseline data to trend off of. Having one done now won't really tell you a whole hell of a lot and I bet you'll think your engine is on the fringes of exploding (whether it really is or not).
If you're tearing apart engines before the rest of the truck falls apart these days, you're having severe issues with your right foot.
Posted on 3/30/14 at 6:47 am to LSUTOM07
Perfectly fine to flush that transmission at 140k. Some here still hold to practices that are decades out of date but transmissions and their fluids are much more robust than they used to be. Your truck uses a late spec fluid and probably has at least one auxiliary fluid cooler for the transmission, nothing to worry about unless you tow a lot or idle in traffic for hours in the summer.
Posted on 3/30/14 at 7:08 am to Clames
quote:
Perfectly fine to flush that transmission at 140k. Some here still hold to practices that are decades out of date but transmissions and their fluids are much more robust than they
we fix transmissions all the time because of flushing.
I would never flush a 4l60.
OP.
sevice the rear differential and use amsoil or another synthetic gear lube.
And if you will do the fuel filter every twenty thousand miles you will never have a fuel pump go out.
Don't wash your engine unless you want to replace knock sensor soon
Posted on 3/30/14 at 12:44 pm to SuzukiGoat
The whole point of one is to detect smaller problems before they become serious problems and you have to replace an entire engine
The Auto-rx stuff works over a period of 1500mi. Run it for that long, then swap oil, run the new oil for the same interval, and swap again
The Auto-rx stuff works over a period of 1500mi. Run it for that long, then swap oil, run the new oil for the same interval, and swap again
Posted on 3/30/14 at 12:58 pm to Hammertime
Im interested in this Auto RX for my tahoe. Can you buy it at most stores (advance auto, auto zone)?
Do you fill with 5qt as usual and add, then run for the 1500mi, change with just regular oil?
Do you fill with 5qt as usual and add, then run for the 1500mi, change with just regular oil?
Posted on 3/30/14 at 1:58 pm to greasemonkey
quote:
we fix transmissions all the time because of flushing. I would never flush a 4l60
That also depends on the who and how components more than the fact it was flushed. Properly done, no issues.
Posted on 3/30/14 at 2:38 pm to Polar Pop
Have to buy it online, and you pour it in before you put the oil is so you don't overfill. I think it might be 1/2qt, but I can't remember. I used the oil they suggested just to make sure it worked like it was supposed to, then the next fill was with some cheaper stuff to wash all of the cleaner out, and then continued with my usual oil
I also completely flushed my coolant system with stuff made for diesels and put new t-stats in. One cleaned out rust, and the other cleaned out the rest of the stuff. Took an entire afternoon and 30gal of distilled water though. I have 7gal of coolant, so obviously it wouldn't be that much for a gasoline car, but there are special detergents for them also. Mixing coolants causes it to basically turn into jelly in my engine, so I had to flush everything and refill with stuff that is better than what Ford uses
I also completely flushed my coolant system with stuff made for diesels and put new t-stats in. One cleaned out rust, and the other cleaned out the rest of the stuff. Took an entire afternoon and 30gal of distilled water though. I have 7gal of coolant, so obviously it wouldn't be that much for a gasoline car, but there are special detergents for them also. Mixing coolants causes it to basically turn into jelly in my engine, so I had to flush everything and refill with stuff that is better than what Ford uses
Posted on 3/30/14 at 3:15 pm to Clames
I am not a fan of flushing a high mileage transmission.
The friction plates, o-rings and paper gaskets are very susceptible to the solvents in trans flushes.
You run the risk of opening up a can of worms. Just change the fluid & filter.
The friction plates, o-rings and paper gaskets are very susceptible to the solvents in trans flushes.
You run the risk of opening up a can of worms. Just change the fluid & filter.
Posted on 3/30/14 at 4:02 pm to Hammertime
Thanks 
Right now I have 110k on my Tahoe with a few minor problems.
I am interested in running the Auto RX for the engine, flushing the coolant system and something for the transmission.
I plan on replacing the stat and waterpump soon, I can smell coolant and have a slow leak so Im sure it is on its way out.
My main concern is the buildup and burning smell of something inside the rear passenger wheel. I think it might be brake fluid related but dont even know where to start looking.
After all that, I need to address the service 4wd light and the traction control on/off random light
My "dream" z71 tahoe turned into a fricking nightmare.
Right now I have 110k on my Tahoe with a few minor problems.
I am interested in running the Auto RX for the engine, flushing the coolant system and something for the transmission.
I plan on replacing the stat and waterpump soon, I can smell coolant and have a slow leak so Im sure it is on its way out.
My main concern is the buildup and burning smell of something inside the rear passenger wheel. I think it might be brake fluid related but dont even know where to start looking.
After all that, I need to address the service 4wd light and the traction control on/off random light
My "dream" z71 tahoe turned into a fricking nightmare.
Posted on 3/30/14 at 4:04 pm to Polar Pop
quote:
I am interested in running the Auto RX for the engine, flushing the coolant system and something for the transmission.
Don't kick a sleeping dog.
Posted on 3/30/14 at 4:09 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
You do have a valid point...
Posted on 3/30/14 at 4:21 pm to Hammertime
quote:
Then Auto-rx with clean oil
I always that it was snake oil. I've purchased probably 5 bottles of that back in 2003-2004. I just used my last bottle about 2 years ago. Never really noticed any of the stuff it claimed, nor did it hurt my engine.
Posted on 3/30/14 at 4:29 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
Your driving habits combined with routine maintenance habits are the biggest influences on vehicle live.
My truck is fricked in that case.
I need another 8 years or so out of it too
It's lasted me 7 already.
Posted on 3/30/14 at 5:39 pm to PSU2LSU
The only way to truly tell how much it helps would be to pull the engine apart and look inside.
I have seen a few people actually do it, and the results made me want to run it. IIRC, it was only like $15, and even if it cleaned some of the sludge out, it would be worth it. I did it at 50k intervals
Another thing that people think is snake oil would be that Lucas HD stabilizer. I'll be the first one to say that it is absolutely not. I have used it with success on multiple vehicles(only one of mine) and it quiets them down every time
I have seen a few people actually do it, and the results made me want to run it. IIRC, it was only like $15, and even if it cleaned some of the sludge out, it would be worth it. I did it at 50k intervals
Another thing that people think is snake oil would be that Lucas HD stabilizer. I'll be the first one to say that it is absolutely not. I have used it with success on multiple vehicles(only one of mine) and it quiets them down every time
This post was edited on 3/30/14 at 5:54 pm
Posted on 3/30/14 at 5:59 pm to Hammertime
quote:
Another thing that people think is snake oil would be that Lucas HD stabilizer.
Before anyone believes this...Id suggest taking a glance at the tests conducted concerning oil viscosities with and without.
The newer oils do not need "viscosity improvers" and do better without them.
As for the noise issue...if I were to pour light cane syrup into your engine while it was running, it would likely run quieter...that does not mean it would help the oil lubricate better.
Ive pulled down engines that ran lucas at every oil change...and were given oil changes at suggested intervals. SLUDGE. Thicker isnt better. Not anymore.
This post was edited on 3/30/14 at 6:01 pm
Posted on 3/30/14 at 6:33 pm to SuzukiGoat
quote:
.if I were to pour light cane syrup into your engine while it was running, it would likely run quieter
That's why it works well I haven't ever used it in an engine with less than 150k, and frankly wouldn't use it from brand new. Sort of a band-aid, but it works
Posted on 3/30/14 at 7:04 pm to SuzukiGoat
i use lucas and can say it definitely makes a difference.it makes oil pressure higher. some would say thats probably because its thicker, and thats true but it also lowered my oil temperature by 15 degrees compared to what it was running before i started using it.
This post was edited on 3/30/14 at 7:06 pm
Posted on 3/30/14 at 7:18 pm to Polar Pop
quote:I have had coolant leak in one place or another for the past 10k miles, and I'm not talking about a small amount. Mine have been a gallon every 100 miles. Past two times have been hoses, and it is this time again. I just can't see it to replace the damn thing. Frustrating as hell
I can smell coolant and have a slow leak so Im sure it is on its way out.
quote:Levels been decreasing?
I think it might be brake fluid related but dont even know where to start looking.
quote:Both are very common. Look for your EVAP canister above the spare to go out soon, and PCV will probably need to be replaced soon too. Both of those are 15 minute jobs each. In my experience, the 5.3's throttle bodies get carbon buildup pretty badly and quickly too.
After all that, I need to address the service 4wd light and the traction control on/off random light
I did plugs and wires on mine at like 140k, and it was a PITA, but ran much better afterwards. Replaced shocks and that helped the ride a bunch
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