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Started By
Message
OB Construction: Free standing deck cover
Posted on 3/24/15 at 9:07 am
Posted on 3/24/15 at 9:07 am
(no message)
This post was edited on 9/28/22 at 9:59 am
Posted on 3/24/15 at 9:16 am to Papercutninja
I have stacked, 20' long by 10' wide porches with no middle support beams. I put treated 4"x12" or a little bigger beam on the lower porch and a laminated beam on the upper porch.
Lower:
Upper:
Lower:
Upper:
This post was edited on 3/24/15 at 9:17 am
Posted on 3/24/15 at 9:35 am to wickowick
(no message)
This post was edited on 9/28/22 at 9:58 am
Posted on 3/24/15 at 9:42 am to Papercutninja
A 2 x 10 isn't going to get it done. I don't know what size will, perhaps one of our engineers can give some options...
Posted on 3/24/15 at 9:47 am to Papercutninja
quote:
2 x 10 would give me enough support
no
You need to consult basic construction regs for load bearing areas and allowable maximum deflection under load. Also need to consider the lift that the tin roof will put on the posts due to having open sides in the event of high wind. Make sure you check out local building codes too if applicable.
For that distance you have 3 options with only corner posts
steel cross beam
large likely minimum of 4x12 solid wood beam
and laminated beam likely in 4x12 or larger.
Posted on 3/24/15 at 10:07 am to Papercutninja
At a minimum I would double up a couple of 4 x 12 lvls
Posted on 3/24/15 at 10:07 am to wickowick
your best option will be a glu-lam beam engineered for the load. the glu-lam manufacturer will design the beam around the span/load info you give them. They aren't that expensive
Posted on 3/24/15 at 10:31 am to Bleeding purple
(no message)
This post was edited on 9/28/22 at 9:58 am
Posted on 3/24/15 at 10:41 am to Papercutninja
quote:
Glad my ignorance is entertaining.
Don't be insulted, ignorance is correctable, stupidity is not.
Not to be an arse, but there is difference in sinking a post in concrete like people do for a common fence post and properly connecting a supporting post to a concrete footing. Also may need to use hurricane ties on the post header joint and the header roof joist connections to assure they stay firm and meet code. One way to get plenty of long lasting strength is to use steel poles with welded on flanges to set the wood beam in and then bolt through. Then you cover the post with a hollow box of wood made to look like the wooden post you were going to put in. That way if there is damage to the wood post later you are not stuck jacking up the roof to replace it. Simply take off the faux post and replace while the steel support remains in place.
FWIW moving your posts in from the corners slightly like wickowick did above reduces the span that the beam must carry the load. Even 4 ft of reduction can make significant differences in size of beam needed.
Posted on 3/24/15 at 10:53 am to Bleeding purple
(no message)
This post was edited on 9/28/22 at 9:58 am
Posted on 3/24/15 at 11:08 am to Bleeding purple
quote:
FWIW moving your posts in from the corners slightly like wickowick did
There is only around 16" between mine, not sure how much that helps...
Posted on 3/24/15 at 11:52 am to Papercutninja
quote:
I am also curious if there is a way to tie into an exposed portion of the rafter on the side closest to the house to support the deck cover on that side, then I would only need a colum in the middle on the outside run.
You'll need to remove the exterior finish, attach a ledger to the existing stud wall, repair/replace the finish and provide flashing.
Just to get you an idea of the size you'll need I did a quick analysis and it will take a substantial beam to support 15 pounds of dead and live load per square foot. I usually deal with commercial loads but I think this is about right for residential. I didn't take into account the wind loads but I don't think they'll get up to applying 30 pounds of pressure per foot and if they do it won't be by much. Using the 30 pound load I came up with a 5 1/8"x13 1/2" glulam with higher section properties than average (mostly has to do with compressive strength) and about 25% reserve capacity.
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