re: DIY Sprinkler system - Advice

OK, I was perfectly content to just continue to lurk here, but I am looking at installing a very similar DIY system and would like to keep the discussion going to make sure I'm not missing anything.

I have the same three outlet timer, and plan to use 3/4" polyetheline tubing with perma-loc connectors. I will run a total of six Rain Bird 32SA rotors (with about 20-30 ft. spray radius) on my front lawn which measures about 80 by 100 ft. I plan on putting three rotors on a single outlet (zone). I'm also using 50 PSI pressure reducers to protect the lines and rotors. I measured my hose bib and it puts out 10 GPM at around 75 PSI. After bouncing the idea off a few professional landscapers, they all agree it should work.

I plan on mocking it up above ground first to make sure, but worst case scenario, I will have to use three zones(2 rotors per outlet) instead of two.

I called Rain Bird and they also think it will work.

The whole enchilada will cost right at $200 assuming I don't have to rent a trencher. This will be perfect for those short summer droughts that always seem to kill my centipede.

Can anyone see a reason why this wouldn't work?

I have did my own intstall it was easy use 1. In pipe I like the hunter products much better than the others. Go to their website they have plenty of info.

Biggest mistake people make is in the spring and wash any pre emergant off that they used on their lawn, use it sparingly until you are in the growing season

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The controller shown is for a very small, low flow area. You need a real system. Use the Rainbird website. They have a design service where they design it for you. They have videos of how to do everything. I've done a few. It's not rocket science just labor intensive.

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This is good advice. Rainbird will provide you with a professionally designed plan and an item list to complete your project.

Also trenching machines suck in clay. The teeth get packed and stop cutting. And wheels just spin if the clay is wet.

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DIY Sprinkler system - Advice

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My advice is that this is definitely something you don't want to do yourself.

When you are paying someone who is licensed, you are not only paying them to install it, you are paying them for their expertise to know what you really need, to fix things when things break at first, being able to be on their list when something breaks, freezes, etc, and their insurance if something goes bad. Plus, it is on them if they cut something installing the system.

If you do install it yourself, be sure to call to have all the underground lines marked.

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My advice is that this is definitely something you don't want to do yourself.

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Seems like a common theme. The problem is, i'm cheaper than I am smart.

I had my wife in the yard with me yesterday marking areas for the rotors. Once she realized i was doing all this myself, she dropped the tape measure and went back inside. So supportive.

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SportTiger1

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Your idea will work as long as the water source puts out enough flow (GPM) and pressure to accommodate the rotors and you don't need more zones than you have outlets on the controller. Rain Bird publishes the flow rates for their rotors with each nozzle size. Make sure you have some additional flow left over to account for friction and other inefficiency. The larger lines should minimize this.

For example, if your rotor uses 3 GPM at 50 psi, and your hose bib puts out 8 GPM at 50 psi, don't put more than 2 rotors on each outlet (zone). As long as you run each zone one at a time, it should work.

If you want to do a sophisticated scheme to water your entire lawn and landscaping, hire a pro.

ETA: measure your flow with the timer installed. It will reduce your flow rate some.

Anyone have any experience with lawn belt products?

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Seems like the pipe is good quality and they had issues with the sprayer connections but have been fixed by increasing the thickness of the plastic. Got 1/2 acre to water and this looks pretty tempting