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Message
re: Complete Backyard Makeover - Zoysia or St. Augustine
Posted on 7/25/17 at 1:20 pm to AFtigerFan
Posted on 7/25/17 at 1:20 pm to AFtigerFan
I bag the emerald, without exception. Only sometimes do I bag the zenith, and it isn't near as bad. Emerald zoysia grows incredibly dense and it takes a really long time for any dead parts of the plant to decay. For reference, I don't tend the compost pile to help speed it along. I just spread it out in the woods in the back. My clippings from last year are still there. This year's clippings/thatch removed will still be there next year. With that slow of a decay process, and even bagging the clippings, the normal living/dying process is such that thatch accumulates. As previously stated, the more you encourage the living cycle (feed/water), the more dying cycle you get, and the quicker thatch accumulates. Last year, I just didn't have time to keep up with it. In fact, I didn't fertilize or water the last two years, and still built up a lot of thatch that thinned growth, and as a result, got a proliferation of weeds I'm fighting with this year.
Now that I have my own power rake and I don't have to contend with the inconveniences of out of town rentals/returns, I should be able to manage a lot better.
This is all with the Emerald. The Zenith is much less work.
This is the info I went off of, from LSU AG. My revisions to it would be the once a year dethatching was inadequate for me/emerald, and a low thatch culture means you settle for lower quality than what you plant zoysia for in the first place. The other addition would be the impracticality of maintaining a reel mower. If those statements would have been made clearly, I probably wouldn't have gotten emerald.
With newer, improved varieties on the market now, some of this is outdated, but in principle it's true.
:
Now that I have my own power rake and I don't have to contend with the inconveniences of out of town rentals/returns, I should be able to manage a lot better.
This is all with the Emerald. The Zenith is much less work.
This is the info I went off of, from LSU AG. My revisions to it would be the once a year dethatching was inadequate for me/emerald, and a low thatch culture means you settle for lower quality than what you plant zoysia for in the first place. The other addition would be the impracticality of maintaining a reel mower. If those statements would have been made clearly, I probably wouldn't have gotten emerald.
With newer, improved varieties on the market now, some of this is outdated, but in principle it's true.
:
quote:
Zoysia grasses are fine to medium fine in texture and make the highest quality lawns. They grow slowly and are slow to establish, but they are extremely aggressive and will invade other grass areas. The tendency of this grass to thatch (build up a dead, spongy base) is much greater than that of St. Augustine and Bermuda. The thatching problem often requires replacement of this type of grass after five to seven years because homeowners do not dethatch and maintain a low thatching culture. This is especially true for Zoysia lawns in south Louisiana. Those who grow Zoysia should not grow it in total full sun or under high fertility. It is a high maintenance turf. Homeowners who plant Zoysia should plan on having a reel mower that will catch grass clippings and rent a vertical mower (dethatcher) once a year. This grass may be a little more practical in extreme north Louisiana where generally lower temperatures will help limit growth. The fine-leaved Emerald hybrid and similar Matrella selection should make the best lawns. The thatch-prone Emerald does have good salt and shade tolerance. Meyer Z52 (japonica) variety is coarser, less shade-tolerant and grows faster than the other two Zoysias. El Toro is similar to Meyer but faster spreading and more stress-tolerant. Palisades, JaMur and Crowne are also good choices.
Posted on 7/25/17 at 1:23 pm to Tiger-Striped-Bass
Posted on 7/25/17 at 1:39 pm to Tiger-Striped-Bass
Thanks! I enjoy learning new things about lawns.
I'm in the process of trying to get control of mine from all the weeds. I live in the Dayton, Ohio area, and I swear I had more weeds than grass when I moved in a few months ago. It's a long process, but so far it is getting better. The yard was overrun with dandelions, creeping charlie, clover, henbit, lespedeza, thistle... you name it, I had it. After a two cycles of Scott's weed-n-feed, and 1 spot treatment, the yard is looking much better. I'm going to keep up with my lawn care schedule and plant some grass seed this fall. I think my yard will look pretty good next year (it's a mix of fescue/bluegrass from what I can tell).
I'm in the process of trying to get control of mine from all the weeds. I live in the Dayton, Ohio area, and I swear I had more weeds than grass when I moved in a few months ago. It's a long process, but so far it is getting better. The yard was overrun with dandelions, creeping charlie, clover, henbit, lespedeza, thistle... you name it, I had it. After a two cycles of Scott's weed-n-feed, and 1 spot treatment, the yard is looking much better. I'm going to keep up with my lawn care schedule and plant some grass seed this fall. I think my yard will look pretty good next year (it's a mix of fescue/bluegrass from what I can tell).
Posted on 8/7/17 at 3:52 pm to Yaboylaroy
quote:
Something that will get a darker green. This is about as dark as I can get my centipede. It was a few weeks after I hit it with milorganite.
Maybe try some 4-3-4 to green it up
Posted on 8/7/17 at 8:31 pm to Yaboylaroy
quote:
(if I get a hard rain for 20+ minutes I cant cut the yard for over a week).
So u havn't cut your grass since March.
Posted on 8/9/17 at 6:06 pm to AFtigerFan
Thatch has nothing to do with clippings. Thatch is dead stems, not leaves. St. Aug can develop thatch the same as Zoysia. The reason people relate thatch to fertilizer is because excessive fertilizer causes excessive growth of leaves AND stems. The stem (stolons and rhizomes) grow at a rate which is faster than they can break down. Over the years, a thick layer of thatch develops and the grass basically grows above the thatch layer, with little to no contact with the soil. That's why dethatching needs to be done every couple of years.
Posted on 8/10/17 at 7:57 am to AFtigerFan
quote:
I was under the impression that it has nothing to do with mulching. I thought it had to do with over-watering your lawn.
Thatch is the over build up of grass clippings, when I said mulch what I meant was using the mulch setting on a mower and not bagging. Or using a reel mower that doesn't bag. So if you bag your grass, thatch should not be an issue. Bagging obviously isn't an option for some, and it's a bigger pita. But for your normal 1/4-1/2 acre suburban lawn it's not that big of deal.
I believe people relate it to overwatering because the grass grows faster than is necessary when over watered.
This post was edited on 8/10/17 at 7:58 am
Posted on 8/10/17 at 11:01 am to jimbeam
quote:
I wouldn't count out centipede as it grows slower than st aug.
I have enjoyed my centipede. It's done a good job of blocking out weeds, which was my number one fear since it grows slow.
Only issue i have with it, it turns yellow/brown at the first sign of cold weather. My neighbors bermuda just looks the regular tan dormant color...mine stands out like a sore thumb in the early winter.
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