- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
:Clames: :Propagandalf: AR help
Posted on 8/26/15 at 7:41 pm
Posted on 8/26/15 at 7:41 pm
maybe :deore: too
i accidentally posted this on OT instead of here yesterday and the mods wont frickin move it, so ill just post it again
Bought a new Geissele MK8 MLOK rail to put on my 8.5" 300blk upper (I moved my KMR to my 10.3" 5.56).
I'm very pleased with the design. Very robust construction with a 2" barrel nut, two crossbolts, and two anti-rotation tabs that slip over the receiver that are buffed by two set screws.
When I slide the handguard over the barrel nut, this happens...
The culprit: The anti-rotation tabs.
The receiver doesn't have the taper on the front end like standard mil-spec receivers do (something I've never noticed on the Noveskes). See my Daniel receiver below. I spoke with VLTOR today and they said that the Noveske-marked MURs are cut differently to Jonh Noveske's specs in order to be tougher and give a better appearance with the NSR rail.
Geissele told me to file the tabs down on the handguard. I'm gonna caliper them tomorrow and see how much I'd have to file, but I'm kinda nervous to. As much work I do on these, I've never done any hg filing, AND I'd hate to be stuck with a "proprietary" handguard in case I ever had to sell it. any of you guys wanna do it? should i even bother? I may just send it back to Geissele and get an 8" SLR. What do yall think?
i accidentally posted this on OT instead of here yesterday and the mods wont frickin move it, so ill just post it again
Bought a new Geissele MK8 MLOK rail to put on my 8.5" 300blk upper (I moved my KMR to my 10.3" 5.56).
I'm very pleased with the design. Very robust construction with a 2" barrel nut, two crossbolts, and two anti-rotation tabs that slip over the receiver that are buffed by two set screws.
When I slide the handguard over the barrel nut, this happens...
The culprit: The anti-rotation tabs.
The receiver doesn't have the taper on the front end like standard mil-spec receivers do (something I've never noticed on the Noveskes). See my Daniel receiver below. I spoke with VLTOR today and they said that the Noveske-marked MURs are cut differently to Jonh Noveske's specs in order to be tougher and give a better appearance with the NSR rail.
Geissele told me to file the tabs down on the handguard. I'm gonna caliper them tomorrow and see how much I'd have to file, but I'm kinda nervous to. As much work I do on these, I've never done any hg filing, AND I'd hate to be stuck with a "proprietary" handguard in case I ever had to sell it. any of you guys wanna do it? should i even bother? I may just send it back to Geissele and get an 8" SLR. What do yall think?
This post was edited on 8/26/15 at 10:55 pm
6
Posted on 8/26/15 at 8:48 pm to eyepooted
i kinda want to. they seemed pretty apathetic about it and just recommended a machine shop in Ohio 
i found an forum post from a few months ago where the same thing happened to a guy and Geissele offered to modify the handguard for him, and then if he ever wanted to sell it, they would exchange his modified one for a new one that he could sell. all i was told was "we dont do modifications here"
Ill definitely be pushing CMC triggers over Geisseles now
i found an forum post from a few months ago where the same thing happened to a guy and Geissele offered to modify the handguard for him, and then if he ever wanted to sell it, they would exchange his modified one for a new one that he could sell. all i was told was "we dont do modifications here"
Ill definitely be pushing CMC triggers over Geisseles now
Posted on 8/26/15 at 9:06 pm to Carson123987
I would post this on reddit on the sub r/ar15. Those guys could probably give you several solutions. You could also xpost to r/guns.
Posted on 8/26/15 at 9:22 pm to Carson123987
Hate to say it but you should have realized the vltor upper has different outside dimensions than a standard upper. It's obvious just by looking at it.
Check with local smiths or machinist, they can easily get the hand guard shaped to fit. Alumi black (the right name if I remember correctly) can be used to black the bare aluminum after cutting.
Check with local smiths or machinist, they can easily get the hand guard shaped to fit. Alumi black (the right name if I remember correctly) can be used to black the bare aluminum after cutting.
Posted on 8/26/15 at 9:26 pm to H.M. Murdock
quote:
Hate to say it but you should have realized the vltor upper has different outside dimensions than a standard upper. It's obvious just by looking at it.
idk why i never noticed. when i initially put the KMR on, I didnt even see it. I deal with standard VLTOR uppers all the time (which are cut normally) and I guess I just assumed the Noveske-marked MUR would be the same deal
quote:
Alumi black (the right name if I remember correctly) can be used to black the bare aluminum after cutting.
yeah i use it all the time. got tons of it
This post was edited on 8/26/15 at 9:28 pm
Posted on 8/26/15 at 10:10 pm to Carson123987
The earlier SLR's had the same issue on non-standard uppers. I had to do a similar, but more complex mod to get it to fit my mega upper. It's easily done with a metal cutting wheel on a dremel.
Posted on 8/26/15 at 10:20 pm to Carson123987
I'd help, but I never got an email.
Posted on 8/26/15 at 10:28 pm to Ice Cream Sammich
frick dude, I know. I remember checking them out, pitching it to our buyers, then had my surgery and totally forgot
Our head buyer just got fired so I'll have to repitch
Gleaux, that's what I figured. I'll probably bust out the dremel at work tomorrow
Our head buyer just got fired so I'll have to repitch
Gleaux, that's what I figured. I'll probably bust out the dremel at work tomorrow
This post was edited on 8/26/15 at 10:32 pm
Posted on 8/26/15 at 10:37 pm to Carson123987
If I wasn't so far away I'd be happy to file those tabs. It's not difficult with a good set of files and holders. Can touch it up with the right stuff and it would look just fine. Just the nature of the beast when doing these kinds of builds. Those tabs taper so the actual amount of material you have to trim isn't much, just chase those threads out after and you'll be fine. A set of fine mill files (Stihl has excellent small mill files for chainsaw work) and some making tape and it looks to be a 15 minute job.
Posted on 8/26/15 at 10:52 pm to Clames
My man. I appreciate it. Always assumed you were local. I'll give it a try tomorrow if we're slow at work.
Thanks again
Thanks again
Posted on 8/26/15 at 11:04 pm to Carson123987
My HOR is Shreveport, I'll be in the area visiting early next month. It's good that it's a surface you won't see unless you take it apart. I'm not a fan of the set screws going straight to the receiver though, might take a pin drill and make some divots so the screws have something to go into a little. It's going to scuff up the finish on the receiver anyway. Take time to make lots of test fits, better it fits snug and scuffs the finish than relying on the set screws too much. Looks like something that will have to be checked a few times as the rifle heat cycles too.
ETA: How much clearance do you have between the top of those tabs and the major width of the receiver in that area? Might have to relieve the tabs a bit on top to clear, hard to tell without seeing how much taper there is.
ETA: How much clearance do you have between the top of those tabs and the major width of the receiver in that area? Might have to relieve the tabs a bit on top to clear, hard to tell without seeing how much taper there is.
This post was edited on 8/26/15 at 11:15 pm
Posted on 8/26/15 at 11:18 pm to Clames
quote:
My HOR is Shreveport, I'll be in the area visiting early next month. It's good that it's a surface you won't see unless you take it apart. I'm not a fan of the set screws going straight to the receiver though, might take a pin drill and make some divots so the screws have something to go into a little. It's going to scuff up the finish on the receiver anyway. Take time to make lots of test fits, better it fits snug and scuffs the finish than relying on the set screws too much. Looks like something that will have to be checked a few times as the rifle heat cycles too.
Didn't know you were military. Always thought you were some type of engineer. I was planning on dimpling the receiver with a pin drill, similar to dimpling a barrel for gas block set screws.
I'll definitely have to run some tests. I'll keep yall posted
If you're ever in BR, be sure to stop at Bowie Outfitters and I'll show you the works
Posted on 8/27/15 at 8:04 am to Carson123987
Posted on 8/27/15 at 11:09 am to Ice Cream Sammich
my bad bro
Posted on 8/27/15 at 12:04 pm to Carson123987
A little electrical tape to cover what you don't want scratched up. Some calipers to make sure both sides are even. A beer to lube up the internals. Throw in some good files and it shouldn't be too hard to get it to fit.
I personally wouldn't use a dremel. I'm pretty Anal retentive and would be too afraid of the bit jumping and marking up stuff I didn't want marked up.
A double cut file should remove material pretty quicky though with the aluminum. Scribe a line where you need to stop. Use a double cut file to rough it in. Single cut with light pressure to smooth it out using the calipers to even out both sides o the same dimensions and get the gap the the right size. Can't imagine it would take more than 15-20 minutes. 30 tops if you take your time.
I personally wouldn't use a dremel. I'm pretty Anal retentive and would be too afraid of the bit jumping and marking up stuff I didn't want marked up.
A double cut file should remove material pretty quicky though with the aluminum. Scribe a line where you need to stop. Use a double cut file to rough it in. Single cut with light pressure to smooth it out using the calipers to even out both sides o the same dimensions and get the gap the the right size. Can't imagine it would take more than 15-20 minutes. 30 tops if you take your time.
Posted on 8/27/15 at 6:49 pm to Carson123987
Don't sweat it. Believe me, I found other stuff to buy in the mean time.
Posted on 8/27/15 at 8:28 pm to Carson123987
Id send it back and pick one of the other million rails that will work. I really dont dig rails that use proprietary barrel nuts as well.
But filing it wouldnt be to bad if you have the right files and the patience for it. For me Id let someone else do it, because Id just break out the dremel and spray paint.
But filing it wouldnt be to bad if you have the right files and the patience for it. For me Id let someone else do it, because Id just break out the dremel and spray paint.
Page 1 of 1
Popular
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News