re: Anybody own a ford with the ecoboost

I'm going to be buying this truck new and I don't want to kick myself for buying something and then someone saying "you should've gotten the one with...". So what's the best gear option, and what not. I've never really paid attention to all that. My plan is to put at least 33's on it. I want it to be quick as well. So what options should I go with. I'm pretty much set on getting the ecoboost. Like I said though, I'm not concerned with gas mileage, my Chevy gets like 12mpg(when it runs), if I wanted good mpg i wouldn't put bigger tires.

What do gears affect? Why get lower or higher?

So if I want it to be fast go with the 3.73 and not the 3.55?

There's not enough difference between a 3.55 and a 3.73 ratio to spend too much time thinking about it, especially with an automatic transmission involved. Whatever small advantage the 3.73's have over the 3.55's is lost when you up the tire size anyway. Something else to keep in mind, the turbos will spool up sooner with the smaller ratio.

The ECU will only allow so much before it opens the wastegate so unless you plan on doing a few more bolt-ons the difference is really only academic.

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Except the Ecoboost is built more like a turbo diesel than a typical gasser

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I don't think so. It's got more bore than stroke and not much compression ratio considering it's direct injection. Diesels almost always have more stroke than bore as far as I know. The longer stroke does lead to higher piston speeds for a given RPM but they tend to make torque easier at lower RPM. I highly doubt any of that matters a whole lot between the ecoboost and 6.2 reliability though.

My main concern with the ecoboost's durability is just with the components in it. I'm not sure it's built to be worked hard very much. There's a reason the 6.2 is offered in heavy duty trucks and not the ecoboost.

I'm not sure why direct injection gas engines are still running such low compression ratios.

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Pistons are a hybrid build with steel inserts supporting the top ring (technique sometimes found in heavy-duty turbo diesel applications) and are much tougher than the V8 pistons, forged I-beam rods, and forged steel crank (as opposed to the V8's castings).

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Is all that REALLY that much of an advantage? I can't say I've ever heard of a regular stock motor bending/slinging a rod or chewing up a crank. I could see it making a huge difference if you start trying to make more power, but not so much stock unless I'm missing something.

ETA: We're talking about lugging a motor for 150k+ miles, not wide open 1/4 mile at a time.

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Pistons are a hybrid build with steel inserts supporting the top ring (technique sometimes found in heavy-duty turbo diesel applications) and are much tougher than the V8 pistons, forged I-beam rods, and forged steel crank (as opposed to the V8's castings).

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From everything I've ever read/heard on the subject, the 5.0 and the eco have the same set up: HE pistons, powder rods, forged crank

ETA: just saw yall were comparing to the 6.2, which indeed does have a cast crank. But still, I've never heard that the eco has forged rods.

I get all that, but how does it matter in working mileage? The hp/liter is so much higher on the ecoboost than the 6.2, and the 6.2 has two more pistons to take the beating, and it's all bigger. I highly doubt this information exists for our eyes, but I'd bet the 6.2's rotating components are stronger than the eco's by virtue of size. Combine that with a simple 2 valve/cylinder DOHC head and you have (minus the pushrods) everything that made the old big blocks last forever.

When you look at duty ratings on commercial engines, the one universally common theme is when you go up on duty cycle, you go down on hp/liter.

I bet the fuel system craps out on both of them before any of the engine guts do anyway. I just have a very hard time believing the design life/duty rating of the ecoboost is higher than the 6.2

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You do realize that engine is made in America, right?

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By mexicans

With profits going to japan