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Started By
Message
Anybody familiar with the early Kawasaki Brute Force?
Posted on 11/5/23 at 1:43 pm
Posted on 11/5/23 at 1:43 pm
I got a new to me 2005 Brute Force from the pa-in-law. Low hours but used exclusively in rice fields. Yesterday within 5 minutes of riding gravel roads at the camp, the front end seemed to lock up. I first noticed that speed seemed reduced. I stopped. When I tried to take off again, I realized that the front tires wouldn’t roll at all — not even in neutral. I left it alone for an hour or so, came back with my trailer to load it up and, whatcha know, it was fine. This has to be a brake issue, right?
One thought was that maybe I was accidentally putting pressure on the brake lever, but I can’t get the front wheels to completely stop under power without really horsing down on it.
I read a lot about the engine braking system on these being problematic. That wouldn’t only affect the front if it were the culprit, would it?
One thought was that maybe I was accidentally putting pressure on the brake lever, but I can’t get the front wheels to completely stop under power without really horsing down on it.
I read a lot about the engine braking system on these being problematic. That wouldn’t only affect the front if it were the culprit, would it?
3
Posted on 11/5/23 at 3:13 pm to turkish
Almost seems like something up front getting hot and seizing? Did you check the front diff oil?
Posted on 11/5/23 at 4:02 pm to 3deadtrolls
Yep. I actually have a slow leak on an axle seal. I keep a close eye on levels. Had recently checked levels and added only a few drops to top it off.
Having said that, things hadn’t really warmed up. The engine had been idling a few minutes. I’d ridden only about 300 yards.
Having said that, things hadn’t really warmed up. The engine had been idling a few minutes. I’d ridden only about 300 yards.
This post was edited on 11/5/23 at 4:05 pm
Posted on 11/5/23 at 5:09 pm to turkish
In general they have a weak front diff, plus the design of 4x4 activation doesn’t help. The 4x4 actuator could be stuck trying to engage 4wd. I would ride on a straight path in grass or dirt and switch the 2wd/4wd back and forth a few times to see if that does it. No more than 5mph while trying this. Keep in mind it doesn’t engage/disengage instantly, it takes a few feet.
Posted on 11/6/23 at 6:22 am to Jblac15
Buddy had that model.
Kept locking the front end up.
Ended up being a pinched/collapsed brake line by the front wheel. It would let you compress the caliper with the handle since there is force but you couldn't bleed pressure off when you let go
Went ahead and changed out all the brake cable and master cylinder.
Kept locking the front end up.
Ended up being a pinched/collapsed brake line by the front wheel. It would let you compress the caliper with the handle since there is force but you couldn't bleed pressure off when you let go
Went ahead and changed out all the brake cable and master cylinder.
Posted on 11/6/23 at 9:30 am to turkish
My guess would be a brake issue. It’s holding pressure from a bad master or pinched line. When you drive it a while the pads will heat up and swell causing it to lock up. Cools down and releases. Just an internet guess, though.
Posted on 11/7/23 at 4:49 pm to Cypressknee
cypress shoot me an email. have a 4-wheeler question.
amadden0408@gmail.com
amadden0408@gmail.com
Posted on 11/7/23 at 6:27 pm to Cypressknee
Would a pinched line be visible? The hoses look good… from the outside of course. No sharp bends.
Posted on 11/7/23 at 7:17 pm to turkish
Not always.
They can collapse internally if they are metal outside. Like where they turn into the wheel.
They don't have to completely collapse. Just enough for restriction.
Bleed all your brake lines and leave the master cylinder open but covered to keep dirt out.
Try doing the exact same thing you did and see if it locks up.
At worst you flushed old shite out and will have to just refill and bleed.
Don't spill brake fluid on anything painted. It's corrosive.
They can collapse internally if they are metal outside. Like where they turn into the wheel.
They don't have to completely collapse. Just enough for restriction.
Bleed all your brake lines and leave the master cylinder open but covered to keep dirt out.
Try doing the exact same thing you did and see if it locks up.
At worst you flushed old shite out and will have to just refill and bleed.
Don't spill brake fluid on anything painted. It's corrosive.
This post was edited on 11/7/23 at 7:19 pm
Posted on 11/7/23 at 7:35 pm to turkish
quote:
I recently picked up a 2007 BF 750i, camo edition with around 900 hours. I was told it had no issues and when I picked up the bike, the guy drove it around and thought he tried 4WD. Anyway, I got it home and tried 4WD. It goes into gear fine, was a bit rough, but switching out of 4WD it would finally change the display to 2WD but wheels would be hard to roll or even locked up/not rolling. I would shut it off, go inside for a bit and magically it would be back in 2WD again to operate as it should.
[link=(2005 kawasaki brute force front wheels seizing up)]Kawasaki Brute Force Wheels Locking Up[/link]
Posted on 11/8/23 at 11:25 am to amacomo
quote:
cypress shoot me an email. have a 4-wheeler question.
Responded. Delete your email.
Posted on 11/8/23 at 11:38 am to turkish
quote:
Would a pinched line be visible? The hoses look good…
Pinched (think like a bend) yes, collapsed not so much. Hard to see/notice if even possible. I would start by changing the brake fluid, bleeding and go from there. Pending, the bike hasn’t been recently worked on or damaged.
Posted on 11/8/23 at 7:02 pm to Miketheseventh
Thanks. The link’s not working but I’m pretty sure I’ve read that one from earlier Google searches about the issue. I’ve noticed no 4wd/2wd issues but will try some switching back and forth in the yard. It was in 2wd when the problem first occurred and had been that way for months.
This post was edited on 11/8/23 at 8:57 pm
Posted on 11/9/23 at 3:30 pm to turkish
I would jack it up to check it. If you try and drive while it's binding it's liable to bust the diff housing
It used to be around $900 just for parts if you bust the housing
It used to be around $900 just for parts if you bust the housing
This post was edited on 11/9/23 at 3:45 pm
Posted on 11/9/23 at 3:44 pm to turkish
I’m not sure if I’ve ever driven a fourwheeler with working front brakes. If you find they’re the problem, pull them off a chunk them in the trash.
Posted on 11/9/23 at 5:58 pm to TheDrunkenTigah
Don’t worry, I’ve pulled em off bikes before!
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