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re: Post Tension Slab

Posted on 3/9/15 at 7:11 pm to
Posted by VetteGuy
Member since Feb 2008
28174 posts
Posted on 3/9/15 at 7:11 pm to
OK, so you have to think about that tall area as extra living space in terms of heating and cooling.

In other words, a 20x20 den with 20' ceilings with take quite a bit more AC than the same room with 10' ceilings.

I'm seeing 3 units in your future. One up, two down.
Posted by daviddsims
West Monroe
Member since Dec 2008
587 posts
Posted on 3/9/15 at 7:13 pm to
Going to make sure the HVAC contractor comes in and measures and runs a Manual J before sizing. That is the one area I want to make sure is correct.
Posted by Agforlife
Somewhere in the Brazos Valley
Member since Nov 2012
20102 posts
Posted on 3/9/15 at 7:38 pm to
Hell just dig out to a good solid material proof roll it and fill the void with cement stabilized sand and pour your slab
Posted by VetteGuy
Member since Feb 2008
28174 posts
Posted on 3/9/15 at 7:38 pm to
Agreed.
Posted by thejudge
Westlake, LA
Member since Sep 2009
14061 posts
Posted on 3/9/15 at 8:12 pm to
Guy from work had one done here is SWLA and his cracks and foundation problems are horrible
Posted by Rev1897
NOLA
Member since Dec 2008
782 posts
Posted on 3/16/15 at 1:15 pm to
So we are driving piles and our contractor has given us the option of PT or Conventional.

What's the difference in price vs. quality? Is it overkill to have it with piles?
Posted by elprez00
Hammond, LA
Member since Sep 2011
29386 posts
Posted on 3/16/15 at 1:26 pm to
Unless your soils are terrible, I mean really terrible, and you're going to have a lot of live load on your slab, I really dont see the need to drive piles and post-tension. The structural load is supported by the pile caps and grade beams.
Posted by Rev1897
NOLA
Member since Dec 2008
782 posts
Posted on 3/16/15 at 1:37 pm to
Any idea what the price difference would be between post-tension and conventional?

I've also heard that if you ever have to make repairs to the slab, PT is impossible to repair because if you cut into the slab you risk cutting one of the cables.
This post was edited on 3/16/15 at 1:54 pm
Posted by Rev1897
NOLA
Member since Dec 2008
782 posts
Posted on 4/12/15 at 6:08 pm to
As an update: I have gotten plans from my engineer which include the option for Post-Tension or Conventional. I am also driving a ton of pilings.

The cost difference isn't that much (probably about $2,000), so it's really just up to how I feel. Right now i'm leaning toward Conventional.
Posted by stout
Smoking Crack with Hunter Biden
Member since Sep 2006
167258 posts
Posted on 4/12/15 at 6:10 pm to
quote:

I am also driving a ton of pilings.




I don't see the need to drive pilings and do post tension
This post was edited on 4/12/15 at 6:11 pm
Posted by NYNolaguy1
Member since May 2011
20895 posts
Posted on 4/12/15 at 6:22 pm to
quote:

don't see the need to drive pilings and do post tension


Wait a sec... You're putting in pilecaps on a post tension slab? At that point you really have a structural slab and is no longer slab on grade. Structural slabs bring their own set of problems, just so you're aware.
Posted by Rev1897
NOLA
Member since Dec 2008
782 posts
Posted on 4/12/15 at 6:35 pm to
Right, pretty much every contractor has told me it's overkill to do 136 pilings (which I am) and PT, and they have recommended just going conventional.
Posted by BoostAddict
Member since Jun 2007
2986 posts
Posted on 4/12/15 at 7:15 pm to
quote:

Hell just dig out to a good solid material proof roll it and fill the void with cement stabilized sand and pour your slab



Yep...As someone (engineer) that deals with this shite daily ... this is what I (and the soil engineer I work with) typically recommend for a residential slab on expansive soil. Now there are some rare cases where piles are required, but that was on a really bad site with long term settlement issues. All a post-tensioned slab is going to do is keep the typical shrinkage cracks pulled tightly together. I'm not a huge fan as this method either.

A slab on grade is only as good as the subgrade preparation. (although, I've seen some slabs poured on pure crap/slop and nothing adverse happened). Proof rolling with a loaded 14 yard dump truck with no problems = good to go on a residential slab, IMO.
Posted by BoostAddict
Member since Jun 2007
2986 posts
Posted on 4/12/15 at 7:17 pm to
quote:

Right, pretty much every contractor has told me it's overkill to do 136 pilings (which I am) and PT, and they have recommended just going conventional.



You're likely wasting a lot of money... and DO NOT do post-tensioned/piles unless an engineer has designed it this way for you.
Posted by Rev1897
NOLA
Member since Dec 2008
782 posts
Posted on 4/12/15 at 7:54 pm to
quote:

You're likely wasting a lot of money... and DO NOT do post-tensioned/piles unless an engineer has designed it this way for you.



I agree it's a lot of money. However, the engineer designed in that way. The guy who is building right next to me just drove 114 piles and also did PT. I'm doing 136 and conventional.
Posted by NYNolaguy1
Member since May 2011
20895 posts
Posted on 4/12/15 at 8:03 pm to
quote:

You're likely wasting a lot of money... and DO NOT do post-tensioned/piles unless an engineer has designed it this way for you.


This. Most commercial, high(er) rise buildings are designed with structural slabs. You don't need this for a house.
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