re: I'm going to be building a farmhouse table soon. Any tips?

Just standard gorilla glue. Or do they have a wood glue?

If you use construction lumber (pine), pay much more attention to contraction rather than expansion. Once it is inside your house, the table top will shrink width wise. If it ever does expand, ever again, it will just go back to the size it was when you built it.
So, your breadboards will always be a little longer than your table is wide. 1/8 to a 1/4 inch on each side.
You may get less shrinkage with the kiln dried, white wood, 2x6s, but those things are like powder to work with.

How did you attaché your breadboard ends?

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One is expanding width wise while one is expanding lengthwise. If you use tight connections the chance of cracking is great.

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This is all dependent on where the table will reside in the years to come. If the table will be in a climate controlled environment, you do not have to worry about anything moving over time, once it is finally acclimated to its environment.

Homes up north rarely have A/C units so the temperature changes daily. This is why the breadboards are only secured in the middle and left to free float on the ends.

I built a farmhouse style table with breadboards 2 years ago, it maybe move 1/16" of an inch. I used pine for mine because I have small kids and they will destroy it anyway, and I figured when they get older I just just replace the top with a hardwood. I also used Titebond III and pocket holes to join everything
together.

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You use a jointer to get one edge and one face flat and square. Then use the table saw to have the other edge parallel to the squared edge. Then run it through the planer.

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Yep, that's how it should be done. But there are those that don't have that knowledge and think just running it through a table saw will suffice or running a hand plane along the edge will smooth the edge out enough for gluing. It not only needs to be flat and true, it also needs to not have any cups in the length of the board.

I used gorilla wood glue for mine, but pocket holes too. I purchased 6 cypress boards, 8-10’ by 2” from Brazos in denham for less than $200. They will run one side through the joiner for you as well. Mine was a pain in the arse (my first) but it came out fantastic. Wife loves it so I’m good.

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If you use standard gorilla glue you have to wet one side. Just a spray bottle mist is fine. It’s very strong.

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I use a damp rag. The good part about using it is that it does form up after drying. Cleans up very easy and once sanded, it will take any kind of stain. It also acts as a filler too!

A good wood glue like Titebond will suffice for gluing the top. It will actually be stronger than the wood once it's cured. If you don't have a jointer, you can use a hand plane to square the edges and fit the boards together. It takes time to do it right but it can be done.

Yes, only glue the joint in the center of the breadboard end. You should still put a dowel through the mortise and tenons of the other joints but leave a small slot in the tenon to allow the dowel to move side to side.

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Glued from the bottom?

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Yes, just the two center boards. Outside boards float.

Sorry, no pictures. The table is at my daughter's house. Had built that table over a year ago and SIL did the finishing. Last time over for dinner, the table had no problems or movement.

Oh, on a side note. All the lumber came off my sawmill. Was air dried for over a year. Moisture level was at 9%.

We just bought that exact table in the picture. Guy did good work. I did go with a true 2" thick top though. So that would be my advice, don't use 1/2", go with a true 2" or thicker top