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Message
Deck plank replacement dos and donts
Posted on 8/8/21 at 8:56 am
Posted on 8/8/21 at 8:56 am
I would love to hear yours. I have a shitton of boardwalk and decking that was built in the early 90s and lots of rotten boards because the deck is built into the side of a hill and with erosion there is alot more ground touching the boards.
i have a combination of 5/4 x 6 and 2 x 6 boards.
as i'm replacing them i only know of 2 things people have told me:
- make sure concave board grain is facing down (frown) so when the wood dries and warps it will tend warp downward instead of upward
- fit a pencil between each board for spacing as you go to keep water from being trapped between boards
any other advice?
i have a combination of 5/4 x 6 and 2 x 6 boards.
as i'm replacing them i only know of 2 things people have told me:
- make sure concave board grain is facing down (frown) so when the wood dries and warps it will tend warp downward instead of upward
- fit a pencil between each board for spacing as you go to keep water from being trapped between boards
any other advice?
9
Posted on 8/8/21 at 9:35 am to CAD703X
Only replace the boards that definitely need replacing. Avoid redoing the whole deck. Treated deck boards now are no where near as good as treated deck boards for the 90's.
I replaced my entire deck about 5 years ago and I regret it. Boards are rotting left and right. I'm tired of replacing bad boards.
I replaced my entire deck about 5 years ago and I regret it. Boards are rotting left and right. I'm tired of replacing bad boards.
Posted on 8/8/21 at 9:39 am to CAD703X
galvanized nails or screws.
Posted on 8/8/21 at 9:47 am to LSU Tiger Bob
quote:
screws
If you are using screws, the torx head are the best. Less slipping than a Phillips or square bit. Easier to back out later if you have to.
Posted on 8/8/21 at 9:50 am to LSU Tiger Bob
quote:I bought a huge box of those 3" yellow torx deck screws. I don't know why anyone would go with nails since I've been playing whack a mole for years with the existing nails that keep popping up.
galvanized nails or screws.
Posted on 8/8/21 at 9:55 am to CAD703X
Most PT is so wet I don't do spacing anymore.
In fact I jam them up tight with a 'bo wrench' specialty bar. They'll be spaced in short order.
Best wood I can find is kiln dried after treating (KDT) it's noticeably less knotty and the one's around here holds up better than the type Yellow brand (or Lowes)
Letting wood dry first is a luxury a home owner can do.
Cut ends (except next to house) all at once after putting down.
In fact I jam them up tight with a 'bo wrench' specialty bar. They'll be spaced in short order.
Best wood I can find is kiln dried after treating (KDT) it's noticeably less knotty and the one's around here holds up better than the type Yellow brand (or Lowes)
Letting wood dry first is a luxury a home owner can do.
Cut ends (except next to house) all at once after putting down.
Posted on 8/8/21 at 10:03 am to awestruck
Any recs on a deck sealer?
Posted on 8/8/21 at 10:06 am to LSUFootballLover
Wish I did.
eta: seems they all need to be regularly reapplied
eta: seems they all need to be regularly reapplied
This post was edited on 8/8/21 at 10:09 am
Posted on 8/8/21 at 10:07 am to CAD703X
Cover the top of the 2x6 joist with a flashing tape of some sort. I have even used duct tape and old bicycle innertube before. It keeps water from sitting on top of the joist. Then lay you 5/4 over it and use good screws..no nails.
Posted on 8/8/21 at 10:28 am to Shoalwater Cat
I have several 16' runs and the person who originally put in the deck didn't use single boards but 2 shorter ones that creates seams all over the deck.
For 90% of the ones I'm replacing it's due to rot where the 2 boards meet. I'm replacing all of them with single boards. The joists are a mess at those locations too
For 90% of the ones I'm replacing it's due to rot where the 2 boards meet. I'm replacing all of them with single boards. The joists are a mess at those locations too
This post was edited on 8/8/21 at 10:30 am
Posted on 8/8/21 at 10:30 am to CAD703X
If newly purchased deck boards, I would secure the deckboards flush with no spacing. As the wood dries out, it will give you the necessary space.
Posted on 8/8/21 at 10:35 am to Shoalwater Cat
quote:
Cover the top of the 2x6 joist with a flashing tape of some sort
Game changer for sure
Posted on 8/8/21 at 10:38 am to LSUFootballLover
quote:
Any recs on a deck sealer?
I’ve had good luck with TWP, which is a stain and not a sealer
Posted on 8/8/21 at 10:51 am to Ric Flair
No spacing. Coated deck screws
Posted on 8/8/21 at 11:33 am to CAD703X
I wouldn’t space them at all. Once they dry they will shrink up to 1/4 inch.
Posted on 8/8/21 at 11:39 am to 2geaux
quote:
I wouldn’t space them at all. Once they dry they will shrink up to 1/4 inch.
oh well, i only replaced about 20 so far; i have plenty left to go.
thanks for the advice.
Posted on 8/8/21 at 1:27 pm to CAD703X
There are different grades of treated wood, buy the best grade for your application. The stuff at Home Depot isn’t it
Posted on 8/8/21 at 2:03 pm to sosaysmorvant
quote:
Treated deck boards now are no where near as good as treated deck boards for the 90's.
Yep. Treated wood in general is not up to the quality of stuff from the 90's.
I live in a 2 story house with porches front and back. I replaced my stairs off the back porch 4 years ago and can see where one of my stringers is showing signs of rot in 3-4 places and that pisses me off since I have to basically tear the stairs apart and start all over again with new stringers.
I'm seriously thinking about going with welded metal stairs this time around.
Posted on 8/8/21 at 2:05 pm to wickowick
I don’t know this for a fact but I have been told that the lumber from Natchitoches Wood Preserving Co. is far supeior to what you buy at Lowe’ or Home Depot.
They have a website.
They have a website.
Posted on 8/9/21 at 7:14 am to CAD703X
Get marine grade. It will last the longest but is the most $$$
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