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re: ISO Aluminum plate ( Boat pictures added)
Posted on 3/24/16 at 5:35 am to TygerT
Posted on 3/24/16 at 5:35 am to TygerT
OP, if you don't weld it down, you going to be sorry. The plating will be loud when vibrating, when running. Would be better to just throw some 1/2" treated plywood down. Brace it in between each rib. Even that vibrates some, but not as loud.
If you still want to put aluminum plating down, get some truck bed liner and roll that on the top and bottom. It will help keep it cool and help with vibration.
If you still want to put aluminum plating down, get some truck bed liner and roll that on the top and bottom. It will help keep it cool and help with vibration.
This post was edited on 3/24/16 at 6:06 am
Posted on 3/24/16 at 5:38 am to TygerT
Samuel Specialty Metals in Baton Rouge.
Posted on 3/24/16 at 6:30 am to TygerT
Just a few observations from my experience with this kind of project.
My brother has a SeaArk aluminum center console with screwed down aluminum floor plate. He lost some screws, so I called SeaArk to find out what they used and they said 410 stainless. I never really saw a lot of galvanic activity at the screw holes, just lost some from vibration.
Make sure your pilot bit is sized correctly or the screws will gall so bad you will break them off going in. I also think there is a lubricant you can use on the screws that will help. I've seen it used on aluminum conduit to prevent galling.
His deck plate is smooth plate but appears to be coated with a non skid bed liner like material. If you went that direction you could roll it on the top of the ribs too. Will hold down on the metal to metal contact and noise from vibration. Diamond plate is nice for the grip, but a pain to screw down. The raised grips may force you to put screws in spots that aren't ideal.
To echo someone's comment about the ribs cracking through the screw holes, I have see that happen a lot on lighter built boats. That SeaArk has really heavy ribs. If your boat has light weight ribs, I would be cautious. Good luck!
My brother has a SeaArk aluminum center console with screwed down aluminum floor plate. He lost some screws, so I called SeaArk to find out what they used and they said 410 stainless. I never really saw a lot of galvanic activity at the screw holes, just lost some from vibration.
Make sure your pilot bit is sized correctly or the screws will gall so bad you will break them off going in. I also think there is a lubricant you can use on the screws that will help. I've seen it used on aluminum conduit to prevent galling.
His deck plate is smooth plate but appears to be coated with a non skid bed liner like material. If you went that direction you could roll it on the top of the ribs too. Will hold down on the metal to metal contact and noise from vibration. Diamond plate is nice for the grip, but a pain to screw down. The raised grips may force you to put screws in spots that aren't ideal.
To echo someone's comment about the ribs cracking through the screw holes, I have see that happen a lot on lighter built boats. That SeaArk has really heavy ribs. If your boat has light weight ribs, I would be cautious. Good luck!
Posted on 3/24/16 at 7:30 am to Tigerhead
Try Hebert Metals in Gonzales/Geismar on HWY 74. I have never bought aluminum but they will sell any shape or size of steel. They will cut it for you too if you need.
Posted on 3/24/16 at 9:18 am to fishfighter
quote:
If you still want to put aluminum plating down, get some truck bed liner and roll that on the top and bottom. It will help keep it cool and help with vibration.
This helps too
Posted on 3/24/16 at 9:42 am to TheDrunkenTigah
Man thanks for all of the input fella's. Thoughts are taken into consideration. I also thought about using the foam in the picture and laying rubber mat on top of it. You use to could by the rubber to length at Tractor supply.
I have 3/4" treated plywood in it now and while it does work well. it is very slippery and it gets very heavy. I do get a lot of water in the bottom while running my crawfish traps. i change it out every year.
I have 3/4" treated plywood in it now and while it does work well. it is very slippery and it gets very heavy. I do get a lot of water in the bottom while running my crawfish traps. i change it out every year.
Posted on 3/24/16 at 9:47 am to TygerT
i think as of right now I will probably go with the foam and rubber.I sure don't want to have to worry about the screws vibrating out.
Glad to have asked the question here. Ya'll made me really think about this.
Glad to have asked the question here. Ya'll made me really think about this.
Posted on 3/24/16 at 9:50 am to TygerT
If someone can post a picture of the bottom of my boat i can text or email it to you. Maybe y'all can come up with a better plan.
This post was edited on 3/24/16 at 9:51 am
Posted on 3/24/16 at 10:26 am to TygerT
This post was edited on 3/24/16 at 11:32 am
Posted on 3/24/16 at 11:11 am to TheDrunkenTigah
Email sent with boat pictures.
Thanks
Thanks
Posted on 3/24/16 at 11:32 am to TheDrunkenTigah
Personally I would lay foam between those stringers and then go with thin exterior plywood but paint it with deck sealer mixed with sand for nonslip or bedliner like wick said. Wont need thick stuff if you have foam for support. Nothing wrong with aluminum there though if you're set on it, a narrower boat wont experience as much hull flex and vibration. Plus you may be able to lay some weather stripping on the stringers to dampen the vibration.
Posted on 3/24/16 at 11:45 am to TygerT
Pretty much any steel yard will have it. I buy all my steel from Brecheen Pipe and Steel in Brusly. They are 5 minutes from the interstate and deliver as well.
Posted on 3/24/16 at 11:46 am to TheDrunkenTigah
Thanks for getting that posted. I do like the foam with plywood or rubber mat on top. it wouldn't get as hot during the summer months. Although the rubber mat that i seen is black and that may reflect some heat
Posted on 3/24/16 at 11:47 am to Fratigerguy
Thanks. i forgot about them. I have used them before.
Posted on 3/24/16 at 11:56 am to TygerT
Yep, there's no one perfect or right way to do it, but we expect pics when it's done!
Posted on 3/24/16 at 12:01 pm to TygerT
are you wanting to go all the way from side to side?
Posted on 3/24/16 at 12:45 pm to TygerT
Aluminum Stainless is expensive. Call Bayou Metal Supply. They also deliver free. 985-643-3340
Posted on 3/24/16 at 12:52 pm to TygerT
You can lay aluminum down with no problem. You just need a buffer between the ribs and the plate. You can use 30lb roofing felt, neoprene rubber, a bead of silicone. That's a nice rig, I'd go with 1/8" neoprene rubber self adhesive tape.
You can buy a 33' roll of 1" wide by 1/8" thick on Amazon for $18.
You can buy a 33' roll of 1" wide by 1/8" thick on Amazon for $18.
Posted on 3/24/16 at 1:00 pm to CHEDBALLZ
Also, McMaster Carr website for your hard to find hardware. They have aluminum and stainless self tapping screws.
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