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re: OT mechanics how long does synthetic oil last
Posted on 6/27/15 at 2:39 pm to cave canem
Posted on 6/27/15 at 2:39 pm to cave canem
That has been proven to be false. A dirty engine will make the clean oil dirty very quickly. Basically like pouring water into a cup of dirt.
Now if it's sticky and gooey, you might have a problem
Now if it's sticky and gooey, you might have a problem
Posted on 6/27/15 at 3:13 pm to AZTarheeel
quote:
I thought car companies recommended changing oil every 10k-15k miles because they started including oil changes in the free maintenance for first so many miles.
Yeah, with my Toyota it's 7 yrs/100K (pretty sure it's same throughout). The dealer that's near me who does it for free does a really good job, so I can't complain.
Posted on 6/27/15 at 4:55 pm to LateArrivalforLSU
And that's all way too complicated. Web forums have turned motor oil into an arms race. Who really mails samples of their oil to a lab for testing? For race applications that makes sense, but not for your 07 Honda Accord.
Whatever you use, just change it every so often and it'll be fine.
Whatever you use, just change it every so often and it'll be fine.
This post was edited on 6/27/15 at 4:56 pm
Posted on 6/27/15 at 5:06 pm to 3deadtrolls
Oil is oil and doesn't "break down" what it does do is get dirty, lose its detergent abilities and pick up oxidants and acids. The benefit of synthetics is consistency of the molecules that make up the oil. Think of it like a bowl filled with marbles all alike in size and texture as a synthetic. Then another bowl filled with marbles of different sizes and consistencies as the non synthetic. The ability to do the job is more consistent and long lasting in a synthetic.
Read Bob The Oil Guy and you will find an oil that gives you the additives needed for your engine and type fuel. It might surprise you to find that the WalMart brand synthetics hold up well in the quality discussion and that some of the "premium" brands like Amsoil and Royal Purple have some qualities that are superior are often times just a lot of hype given their price.
I change at the half way point personally. To me the cost of an extra change a year is cheap insurance when compared to the cost of an engine failure. Some disagree.
Read Bob The Oil Guy and you will find an oil that gives you the additives needed for your engine and type fuel. It might surprise you to find that the WalMart brand synthetics hold up well in the quality discussion and that some of the "premium" brands like Amsoil and Royal Purple have some qualities that are superior are often times just a lot of hype given their price.
I change at the half way point personally. To me the cost of an extra change a year is cheap insurance when compared to the cost of an engine failure. Some disagree.
Posted on 6/27/15 at 6:19 pm to mpar98
Ford's recommendation used to be:
- Change the oil based on the oil life monitor
- Do not exceed 10,000 miles
- Do not exceed 1 year
Has this changed?
- Change the oil based on the oil life monitor
- Do not exceed 10,000 miles
- Do not exceed 1 year
Has this changed?
Posted on 6/27/15 at 6:29 pm to ArkLaTexTiger
Do not care what they say I always changed mine at 3,000. Did not cost that much and did it myself. I know someone who had engine problems on a new car and they tried to say the engine had some sludge in the Oil Pan.
Posted on 6/27/15 at 8:06 pm to LateArrivalforLSU
quote:
No one in this thread knows their arse from their elbow, when it comes to oils.
Used oil analysis is really the only guide to the true condition of used oil and its' remaining life left. The color of oil has nothing to do with the effective life of an oil, the smell of oil has nothing to do with the amount of life left. So much misinformation in this thread.
This is exactly what I posted.
To others, if you truly care about engine wear and extended OCIs, the UOA is a cheap way to do it right. Otherwise, follow the manufacturer and go about your life.
Posted on 6/27/15 at 9:27 pm to mpar98
I go 6K then change filter ,top off then 6 more and complete change. Been doing it in fords since the stuff was invented.
Posted on 6/27/15 at 9:39 pm to mpar98
As someone stated previously, what breaks down in the oil is the additives. Additives to neutralize acids, additives that thicken your oil as your operating temps rise. ect...
Also, most oils advertised as "synthetic" are in fact not. Rather they are highly refined mineral based oils. However, they do perform very well.
A real 100% Synthetic oil is gonna be in the $10 to $15 a quart range. Most people do not require a real synthetic oil.
Someone also mentioned Toyota changing their recommended oil weight to a lighter oil... This was probably to improve gas mileage.
Also, most oils advertised as "synthetic" are in fact not. Rather they are highly refined mineral based oils. However, they do perform very well.
A real 100% Synthetic oil is gonna be in the $10 to $15 a quart range. Most people do not require a real synthetic oil.
Someone also mentioned Toyota changing their recommended oil weight to a lighter oil... This was probably to improve gas mileage.
Posted on 6/28/15 at 7:57 am to klrstix
quote:
Someone also mentioned Toyota changing their recommended oil weight to a lighter oil... This was probably to improve gas mileage.
Maybe, but the reason THEY stated was because of sludge building in the oil pan after 10,000 miles.
Posted on 6/28/15 at 8:17 am to mpar98
I've got a 2007 Silverado. I never change oil with less than 5,000 miles (sometimes I'll go to 6,000) and I use 5W-30 (ie no synthetic oil). I'm at 145,000 miles and haven't had a problem yet.
Posted on 6/28/15 at 8:30 am to mpar98
The oil doesn't wear out. The additive package does.
It all depends on the application.
Some engine are much harder on oils than others.
In a large v8 app, you likely have a parge sump. If you arent towing and doing highway mainly, 15k isn't that outrageous. However, if at an oil change place, it is pretty unlikely you saw anything more than mobil1 ep of whatever they are calling pennzoil ultra these days.
It's even more likely that: your sump is filled a half qt or more low, the oil they said is in there is actually just bulk oil, they wiped off your old filter really well...but didn't change it.
Personally, I'd change it out at 7500 miles. And then do an oil change myself with mobil1 0w40 and a fram ultra filter.
Then you might be able to purpsue longer OCIs.
It all depends on the application.
Some engine are much harder on oils than others.
In a large v8 app, you likely have a parge sump. If you arent towing and doing highway mainly, 15k isn't that outrageous. However, if at an oil change place, it is pretty unlikely you saw anything more than mobil1 ep of whatever they are calling pennzoil ultra these days.
It's even more likely that: your sump is filled a half qt or more low, the oil they said is in there is actually just bulk oil, they wiped off your old filter really well...but didn't change it.
Personally, I'd change it out at 7500 miles. And then do an oil change myself with mobil1 0w40 and a fram ultra filter.
Then you might be able to purpsue longer OCIs.
Posted on 6/28/15 at 8:54 am to mpar98
I change my oil once a year. Usually you can get the filters needed at any auto zone or similar store.
Posted on 6/28/15 at 9:01 am to LateArrivalforLSU
Depends on in which the vehicle is used.
City, lots of towing, track use, routine trail riding, etc would warrant changing it sooner
City, lots of towing, track use, routine trail riding, etc would warrant changing it sooner
Posted on 6/28/15 at 9:41 am to lighter345
quote:
I live next to a firestone. It's $24. I'm lazy.
That's for conventional oil...
Posted on 6/28/15 at 10:00 am to LateArrivalforLSU
quote:
The key to extending oil changes is to keep insolubles low/eliminated, therefore maintaining a high TBN within the oil and also a low TAN number
Wtf? Yea this really helps people out that don't know, speaking fricking gibberish
Posted on 6/28/15 at 10:16 am to Howyouluhdat
I use Amsoil OE
great oil. 160,000 on a 2008 Silverado. Zero issues and I go 7,500 on a change
great oil. 160,000 on a 2008 Silverado. Zero issues and I go 7,500 on a change
Posted on 6/28/15 at 10:30 am to mpar98
My Porsche manual gives me 20k on 8+ quarts of Mobil1.
Posted on 6/28/15 at 11:57 am to MasCervezas
quote:
Pretty sure most people don't change their own oil
I'll do everything but change my own oil on my daily driver. The drive through oil change places are convent and cheap.
10-15k is normal, but like someone suggested send it and have it analyzed
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