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Started By
Message
re: The tune-up thread
Posted on 8/22/14 at 12:29 pm to Hammertime
Posted on 8/22/14 at 12:29 pm to Hammertime
Have you ever changed the driveshaft u-joints? As I said, mine have no zerks and when it comes time it will be another project...
3
Posted on 8/22/14 at 1:57 pm to Spaceman Spiff
One has a little slack, but I am leaving it be for now. No noise coming from it.
Posted on 8/22/14 at 3:12 pm to Spaceman Spiff
Not a hard job at all, looks worse than it is. Pick up a ball-joint press kit from a pawnshop or borrow one and lock it up in a good vise. Good set of needle nose pliers or snap ring pliers, dead blow hammer, small wire brush, solvent, red loctite, and maybe a good beer chilled after your done.
Posted on 8/22/14 at 3:14 pm to Spaceman Spiff
Nothing to it. You just need a press or good sized vise to get the old caps out.
I prefer them to not have zerks. The greasable ones sling grease everywhere and are also not as strong as maintenance free ones.
I had spicers on my old truck for 100k miles.
I prefer them to not have zerks. The greasable ones sling grease everywhere and are also not as strong as maintenance free ones.
I had spicers on my old truck for 100k miles.
Posted on 8/22/14 at 6:04 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
If you don't have a press, the old propane torch, vise, BFH and a large punch work wonders.
LC
LC
Posted on 8/27/14 at 6:02 pm to LongueCarabine
Got all of my parts in finally, and honestly I am not looking forward to this weekend. This pile I've got sitting in my living room is pretty overwhelming.
Both exhaust manifolds
Both lower ball joints
Idler arm
Front diff gasket
F&R pads
Stainless brake lines
I am especially not looking forward to those exhaust manifolds
Both exhaust manifolds
Both lower ball joints
Idler arm
Front diff gasket
F&R pads
Stainless brake lines
I am especially not looking forward to those exhaust manifolds
Posted on 8/27/14 at 6:23 pm to Hammertime
Why did you need new manifolds?
Posted on 8/27/14 at 6:27 pm to Ice Cream Sammich
A piece completely cracked off between two exhaust ports on the passenger side and the driver's side has a crack going underneath one port
Posted on 8/27/14 at 6:42 pm to Hammertime
Yep, thats not good.
Now, I just need you to do one of these for my 6.7.
Better yet, come do this to my 6.7
Now, I just need you to do one of these for my 6.7.
Better yet, come do this to my 6.7
Posted on 8/27/14 at 9:31 pm to Ice Cream Sammich
Yeah, that ain't happening. I'm gonna have my hands full with all of this stuff. I loosened three of the bolts earlier just to see how it would go, and hopefully they all come out that easy, but I know that won't be the case with my luck. The last thing I feel like doing on a gameday is to be extracting broken bolts from a block
Posted on 8/27/14 at 10:12 pm to Hammertime
you may already know, but be damn sure you put some antisieze on the exhaust manifold threads...
Posted on 8/28/14 at 4:44 am to Hammertime
I still have factory pads and rotors on mine and they're still in great shape
The brakes on these trucks are incredibly badass and way overbuilt.
I should change the lines on mine probably though. My old man had one collapse and left him stuck on the side of the road.
The brakes on these trucks are incredibly badass and way overbuilt.
I should change the lines on mine probably though. My old man had one collapse and left him stuck on the side of the road.
Posted on 8/28/14 at 7:15 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
All of the inside pads are worn down and two are at the squeal bars, but the outside ones are still good, and I can see one spot where a line might be ballooning so I'm gonna do them all. I got a Goodridge kit and looks to be high quality. I think front and rear Hawk LTS pads and those stainless lines were around $300 with shipping.
I need to go buy new bolts and washers for the exhaust manifold today also. I guess you can't expect a $60 exhaust manifold kit to come with everything
I need to go buy new bolts and washers for the exhaust manifold today also. I guess you can't expect a $60 exhaust manifold kit to come with everything
Posted on 8/28/14 at 7:37 am to Hammertime
Guy who had it must have had a real heavy brake foot. Mines been towing heavy its whole life and still stops like a SOB.
How much was the line kit? I'm not changing my pads or rotors until it needs it.
How much was the line kit? I'm not changing my pads or rotors until it needs it.
Posted on 8/28/14 at 8:03 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
Good thread. The other weekend I had to replace the selector arm/steering cable bushing. That for some reason was a real pain in the arse.
Posted on 8/28/14 at 9:23 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
It was $140 from tire rack. I'm sure I could've found it cheaper, but they had everything I wanted in stock so I ordered from them
I'll take a picture of the kit when I get home later. It is supposed to help performance and pedal feel significantly
Here you go:
I'll take a picture of the kit when I get home later. It is supposed to help performance and pedal feel significantly
Here you go:
This post was edited on 8/28/14 at 11:28 am
Posted on 8/28/14 at 9:45 am to Hammertime
This has been a really awesome thread.
Posted on 8/28/14 at 10:21 am to Broke
quote:
This has been a really awesome thread.
This. Great work, Hammer.
Posted on 8/28/14 at 11:14 am to member12
Actually swapped out a window regulator Monday because a cable got all unwound, but didn't take pics. That's pretty self explanatory though.
Pop out everything
Unplug it all
Unscrew door panel
Pop off door panel
Remove water barrier plastic
Loosen window from regulator
Tape window up
Unplug window motor
Unbolt and unplug speaker
Unbolt regulator and motor and take out
Move motor to new regulator
Put it all back together
*don't cut zip tie on the part that connects to the motor until you get all together or the cables will go slinging everywhere
Pop out everything
Unplug it all
Unscrew door panel
Pop off door panel
Remove water barrier plastic
Loosen window from regulator
Tape window up
Unplug window motor
Unbolt and unplug speaker
Unbolt regulator and motor and take out
Move motor to new regulator
Put it all back together
*don't cut zip tie on the part that connects to the motor until you get all together or the cables will go slinging everywhere
Posted on 8/28/14 at 11:18 am to Hammertime
I had to do that to a 92 Dodge Stealth R/T. That was a PITA. I'm sensing a trend here. Either the stuff I was doing was harder than normal or I'm making it harder than normal....
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