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Wood working question- Update: Finished pics on page 3
Posted on 6/18/14 at 9:08 pm
Posted on 6/18/14 at 9:08 pm
I've got some 7x9 white oak beams I am trying to cross cut into end grain floor tiles. Problem is my 12" miter saw won't cut completely through.
Does anyone have any advice on a saw that would cut something that thick? I'd rather not have to get a bandsaw as I'd not have much use for it after the fact. If I do go that route what are some good options?
Only mill I've found in my area would charge $5 a cut so that's out of the question.
Before 7x9
Milled down to 6x8
Does anyone have any advice on a saw that would cut something that thick? I'd rather not have to get a bandsaw as I'd not have much use for it after the fact. If I do go that route what are some good options?
Only mill I've found in my area would charge $5 a cut so that's out of the question.
Before 7x9
Milled down to 6x8
This post was edited on 7/22/14 at 5:46 pm
17
Posted on 6/18/14 at 9:22 pm to GoldenSombrero
Bandsaw 
Posted on 6/18/14 at 9:24 pm to GoldenSombrero
Academy sell bandsaws? You could return it after the fact...
Posted on 6/18/14 at 9:34 pm to GoldenSombrero
You need someone with a portable sawmill. They charge by the board foot,the more board feet the less per foot.
Posted on 6/18/14 at 9:34 pm to GoldenSombrero
Table saw?
Posted on 6/18/14 at 9:58 pm to GoldenSombrero
Why not make a bunch of cuts flip the beams and finish the cuts? I wouldn't do more than 10 or so at a time.
If you clamp a block to your saw's fence and flip for every cut, every cut will be exactly the same assuming your blade is true and plumb. I'm all about jigs.
If you end up getting a band saw, you will find other uses for it. Like most tools, you don't realize how much you'll use them until you have them but I would stil do the cut, flip, cut in my shop.
If you clamp a block to your saw's fence and flip for every cut, every cut will be exactly the same assuming your blade is true and plumb. I'm all about jigs.
If you end up getting a band saw, you will find other uses for it. Like most tools, you don't realize how much you'll use them until you have them but I would stil do the cut, flip, cut in my shop.
Posted on 6/19/14 at 3:04 am to GoldenSombrero
How long are those beams? Moving the beams over any stationary saw would be difficult if very long. It seems finishing these tiles would take some effort also being as saw kerf and white oak make for big time work. A few very nice spiral head planers may help with finishing(end grain doesn't plane well) you may need them finished with a sanding machine to ensure uniform thickness. All in all very much effort and special equipment add up to real dollars. To answer the question a bandsaw would be best choice. Wood loss on each cut would be minimal and with a bandsaw and a blade of at least 1 inch width you get it done. Expect dull blades quickly.
Posted on 6/19/14 at 7:49 am to GoldenSombrero
Could you cut it on 2 sides with a skil saw or miter saw and then finish the cut with a sawzall?
may need some sanding after.............
may need some sanding after.............
Posted on 6/19/14 at 8:00 am to GoldenSombrero
I'm all about DIY and being creative/different, but this sure seems like a LOT of work for the return. If you do get this done at some point, please post pics.
Good Luck.
Good Luck.
Posted on 6/19/14 at 10:38 am to GoldenSombrero
Bandsaw is how we would've done it at the cabinet shop where I worked.
Then make a jig to hold 10-20 tiles so they could all be sanded to relatively the same thickness.
Finish sanding once floor is down.
Then make a jig to hold 10-20 tiles so they could all be sanded to relatively the same thickness.
Finish sanding once floor is down.
Posted on 6/19/14 at 11:01 am to GoldenSombrero
Maybe a portaband since the beam is so large and would be difficult moving the material so much?
Posted on 6/20/14 at 6:52 am to GoldenSombrero
How thick do you plan on the final tiles being? Sanding growth rings is a major pain in the arse. If those tiles are not thick enough they will break apart due to lack of cohesion between the rings.
Posted on 6/20/14 at 7:55 am to GoldenSombrero
Makita 16" beam saw, I think they are $700 though 
might be able to rent one
might be able to rent one
Posted on 6/20/14 at 9:41 am to GoldenSombrero
This is something I would not do.
I worke din a saw mill/ lumber yard for quite a while. When you start getting into the board, you will start seeing splits and stuff that are going to make you regret this. SAnding is going to be too much work if it doesnt rip the wood apart. If I were you I would go have tounge and groove made out of it or Philly strips. You can have that run through a planer and the size will be uniform and ready to glue and tack down.
I worke din a saw mill/ lumber yard for quite a while. When you start getting into the board, you will start seeing splits and stuff that are going to make you regret this. SAnding is going to be too much work if it doesnt rip the wood apart. If I were you I would go have tounge and groove made out of it or Philly strips. You can have that run through a planer and the size will be uniform and ready to glue and tack down.
Posted on 6/20/14 at 9:52 am to GoldenSombrero
Als looking at the grain, you will get some pretty awesome tiger stripe looking features so the floor will look really good. You will see a lot of quartersawn features in those pieces of lumber.
the cracks worry me though, how many sq ft are you looking to cover?
the cracks worry me though, how many sq ft are you looking to cover?
Posted on 6/20/14 at 8:13 pm to GoldenSombrero
Radial arm saw
Posted on 6/21/14 at 11:43 am to GoldenSombrero
skil saw
Posted on 6/22/14 at 6:00 am to GoldenSombrero
If you plan on putting any kind of stain on it do not use wood glue not saw dust to fill the cracks. Wood glue WILL NOT TAKE STAIN. It'll be really light compared to everything else. The other problem is that saw dust TAKES TOO MUCH STAIN. In one scenario you have wood filler that is too light, in the next it is too dark. Your best bet is to get a good wood filler that will accept stain that is similarly colored to your floor. The only way to figure this out it to buy a couple small amounts of filler, use it on a test board, sand it, stain it and us which ever one is best. Wood will darken, white oak only slightly, in sunlight over time... so if your filler is just slightly darker than the wood, thats okay.
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