Started By
Message
locked post

Going to look at a flat boat this weekend, need some advice.

Posted on 2/26/13 at 2:37 pm
Posted by sloopy
Member since Aug 2009
6909 posts
Posted on 2/26/13 at 2:37 pm
Not sure if the motor runs, it is an older (early-mid 80's). What do I need to look at to make sure it is worth buying? Guy is willing to separate hull and motor or throw in the motor for a couple of hundred dollars extra.
Posted by TunaTime
LA
Member since Aug 2012
783 posts
Posted on 2/26/13 at 2:39 pm to
Offer him 80% of his asking price
Posted by sloopy
Member since Aug 2009
6909 posts
Posted on 2/26/13 at 2:40 pm to
of the motor or the whole rig? I don't want to buy a motor that I can't get running. I know I can't fix it myself, I'm not to mechanic savoy, but my buddy says he can probably get it running.
This post was edited on 2/26/13 at 2:43 pm
Posted by The Last Coco
On the water
Member since Mar 2009
6968 posts
Posted on 2/26/13 at 2:42 pm to
Don't buy the motor if you can't test it. What is he asking? Pics? etc... Does it have trolling motor? Depth finder? Wired for lights? Tiller or controls?
Posted by TunaTime
LA
Member since Aug 2012
783 posts
Posted on 2/26/13 at 2:42 pm to
Well if the motor doesnt work, i wouldnt get it. That is a very old motor anyway and wouldnt be very reliable. As long as the boat looks good (no holes or anything) and the trailer isnt a rustball, you should be good
Posted by bbvdd
Memphis, TN
Member since Jun 2009
28755 posts
Posted on 2/26/13 at 2:42 pm to
Make sure the transom isn't soft.
Posted by sloopy
Member since Aug 2009
6909 posts
Posted on 2/26/13 at 2:45 pm to
$700 boat and motor. I'm not looking for lifetime use in the motor, I would repower in a couple of years.
Posted by MrCoachKlein
Member since Sep 2010
10310 posts
Posted on 2/26/13 at 2:46 pm to
quote:

transom


This. You're obviously going to want to check out the hull/compartments/wiring as well.
Posted by bbvdd
Memphis, TN
Member since Jun 2009
28755 posts
Posted on 2/26/13 at 2:47 pm to
That's an aluminum jon boat not a flat boat. I was thinking a fiberglass flats boat.
Posted by sloopy
Member since Aug 2009
6909 posts
Posted on 2/26/13 at 2:49 pm to
No that is an aluminum flat boat no s in the title, but either way commercial grade aluminum hull buddy thinks he can get the motor running. For all I know, the motor may run. What should I look at motor wise?
This post was edited on 2/26/13 at 2:54 pm
Posted by bootlegger
Ponchatoula
Member since Dec 2012
5533 posts
Posted on 2/26/13 at 2:53 pm to
See if it's a riveted or welded hull. Rivets almost always work loose and leak, sooner or later.
Posted by 007mag
Death Valley, Sec. 408
Member since Dec 2011
3925 posts
Posted on 2/26/13 at 2:53 pm to
Money pit. Just saying, I'd keep looking.
Posted by tenfoe
Member since Jun 2011
6978 posts
Posted on 2/26/13 at 2:56 pm to
I know a guy with one in better shape

Nevermind: I think it's sold
This post was edited on 2/26/13 at 2:59 pm
Posted by ReelFun
Behind dugout
Member since Apr 2012
1004 posts
Posted on 2/26/13 at 2:57 pm to
quote:

No that is an aluminum flat boat no s in the title, but either way commercial grade aluminum hull buddy thinks he can get the motor running. For all I know, the motor may run. What should I look at motor wise?


Sloopy, if it is truly commercial grade.....that is kind of a misnomer. It doesn't mean it is better. it means that it does not have to meet the more stringent recreational boat standards. simply put, if it is swamped it will sink to the bottom. commercial boats don't have to have level flotation.
Posted by sloopy
Member since Aug 2009
6909 posts
Posted on 2/26/13 at 3:00 pm to
It is welded and from other pictures the hull seems to be in good shape.
Posted by Hammertime
Will trade dowsing rod for titties
Member since Jan 2012
43031 posts
Posted on 2/26/13 at 3:01 pm to
Really, all you need to do with the motor IMHO, is a compression test. Small motors are ridiculously simple.

As far as the hull goes, if it is riveted, look for openings around the rivets. Look to see how the transom is doing. It can be fixed in a couple of hours with a welding machine though. Look at the mounting of the console to the hull also.

Last but not least, look at the trailer
Posted by Hammertime
Will trade dowsing rod for titties
Member since Jan 2012
43031 posts
Posted on 2/26/13 at 3:02 pm to
Commercial grade = thicker hull and welded
Posted by sloopy
Member since Aug 2009
6909 posts
Posted on 2/26/13 at 3:03 pm to
it is all welded, how do I do a compression test? I know the trailer needs a new axle, maybe a little more work.
Posted by ReelFun
Behind dugout
Member since Apr 2012
1004 posts
Posted on 2/26/13 at 3:03 pm to
Hey Coco

that is a beautiful Boykin! whats her name? How long have you had her?
Posted by Hammertime
Will trade dowsing rod for titties
Member since Jan 2012
43031 posts
Posted on 2/26/13 at 3:10 pm to
Couple hundy for a new axle, and probably $50 for a new wiring kit.

My fancy compression test consists of me pulling out a spark plug and cranking the motor over with my finger in the hole.

You can get a gauge at Autozone, hook it up where the spark plug goes, turn over the motor, and make sure it is in spec for that motor(from the owner's manual).
first pageprev pagePage 1 of 3Next pagelast page

Back to top
logoFollow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News
Follow us on X, Facebook and Instagram to get the latest updates on LSU Football and Recruiting.

FacebookXInstagram