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Started By
Message
re: Homebrewing beer. Any Brewmasters here?
Posted on 4/12/12 at 2:47 pm to BugAC
Posted on 4/12/12 at 2:47 pm to BugAC
quote:
Yeah, my last starter, i used a wyeast smack pack, made a starter, and added brewvint yeast fuel. Probably why i had such a vigorous fermentation.
A note about the yeast starter. Allow a day or 2 ahead of brew day to smack the yeast pack, and make a starter.
Great info. I like that I can understand yall here. On some other homebrew boards its too technical. I can understand my peoples.
0
Posted on 4/12/12 at 2:48 pm to SouthOfSouth
quote:
SouthOfSouth
Here is my thread when i first started entering the brewing world. There might be some stuff here that may answer some questions you might have.
LINK
Posted on 4/12/12 at 2:50 pm to BugAC
quote:
Well, i've typically fermented in primary for 7-10 days, every batch, with or without yeast starter.
My best fermentation, was my current batch that was in my secondary. In 10 hours, i had a good head of foam developing and my airlock was bubbling out of control. By 18 hours in, i had a blowoff. This was a 5 gallon batch in a 6 gallon carboy.
Your fermentation will start off quicker, so i may have mispoke, but in comparison to my other brews, i've waited mostly the same amount of time to reach my target FG.
Yeah me too. For pretty much all my beers, they sit in the primary for 2 weeks before secondary. That is the same for a 40 gravity or a 75 gravity.
Posted on 4/12/12 at 3:17 pm to SouthOfSouth
quote:
I dont want to feel like I didn't have any say in the beer. Its like making gumbo from the packet. I would rather do it myself rather than just use the ingrediants someone else told me to and how.
Yeast is yeast is yeast is yeast. Unless you invent your own yeast (unlikely), then you will always be using an already developed yeast. Now you can get yeast from a bottle of your favorite beer (sometimes) and culture it to grow yeast from that, but it's still an already developed and patented yeast. I guess you could try to capture wild yeast Lambic style but that's really advanced stuff. The way to have more "say" in your beer is to eventually get to All Grain. Then you can use the hundreds of different grains out there to make your own combinations, control your mash temps which contribute to beer flavor and choose your own hop combinations and quantities. The yeast type you choose does influence flavor quite a bit, but again, it's going to always be a pre-developed yeast. All a starter does is give you more of it. I've been brewing for several years and use All Grain and develop my own recipes now and never used a starter. Once in 100 brews I've had one stop fermenting and that was early on in my experience and I had a gravity of 1.12 (potential 11% abv) or something crazy and I should have used a starter on that one.
Posted on 4/12/12 at 3:17 pm to TigerstuckinMS
I need to try a smack pack. I tried a white labs vial and it waa the only beer ive truly ruined. Ive been safale us-05 or u-04 religiously ever since. So much easier to just rehydrate.
Posted on 4/12/12 at 3:19 pm to tetu
I wanna try a smack pack jsut cause the name.
Posted on 4/12/12 at 3:20 pm to tetu
quote:
Ive been safale us-05 or u-04 religiously ever since. So much easier to just rehydrate
Yeah, these 2 are very consistent dry yeasts.
But again, most people, it seems, don't do starters. But i will always do a starter from now on. A minimal amount of work a couple days before brewday, with positive payouts.
Posted on 4/12/12 at 3:39 pm to SouthOfSouth
quote:
I wanna try a smack pack jsut cause the name.
They're fun. Smack em and let them swell up on you.
Vials are good too and I'm sure the dry yeast is fine.
Posted on 4/12/12 at 3:45 pm to s14suspense
quote:
They're fun. Smack em and let them swell up on you.
Thats what I normally use. About 4 batches ago, I thought I had broken the pack but when I opened it to pitch...damn...not broken. I went ahead and pitched and cut the little stimulant pack open and pitched that too. Had maybe the best (long lasting and cleanest tasting) fermentation ever. I've done it this was since and have had great fermentation. Not fast starters but they seem to be active for 12-14 days. And the beer has been great too. But I've also been mashing for only 30 minutes rather than the typical hour based on an article I read.
Posted on 4/12/12 at 3:53 pm to Zappas Stache
quote:
But I've also been mashing for only 30 minutes rather than the typical hour based on an article I read.
So that has been working out for you? I hadn't brewed at home for a while until this weekend, and had planned on only mashing for that long until I realized I didn't have any of the hops I needed. So during the mash I ran to marcellos. When I got back it took a while to heat sparge water up so it ended up being about an hour.
Posted on 4/12/12 at 4:12 pm to Fratastic423
quote:
So that has been working out for you?
Its been working great. In theory, according to what I read, mashing for an hour does not get you any more meaningful conversion. But it does allow tannins and other nasties to creep into the wort resulting in off flavors. This guy actually mashed for only 20 minutes.
Posted on 4/18/12 at 11:46 am to Zappas Stache
I wanted to bump this thread. I am about to buy a stainless steel kettle.
Unless convinced otherwise: I am buying a 12 or 15 gal kettle with vertical couplers. 15 Gal Vertical
Am I missing anything? I don't want to boil over or be faced with volume issues. TIA.
EDIT: Heavier Gauge Steel. 15 GAL
I think I will go with a heavier gauge steel just to be safe.
Unless convinced otherwise: I am buying a 12 or 15 gal kettle with vertical couplers. 15 Gal Vertical
Am I missing anything? I don't want to boil over or be faced with volume issues. TIA.
EDIT: Heavier Gauge Steel. 15 GAL
I think I will go with a heavier gauge steel just to be safe.
This post was edited on 4/18/12 at 11:54 am
Posted on 4/18/12 at 12:08 pm to NimbleCat
If you've got the $ go for it. Looks like a really nice pot. 
Posted on 4/18/12 at 1:59 pm to swampdawg
quote:
If you've got the $ go for it. Looks like a really nice pot.
quote:
$239.95
Ouch.
Posted on 4/18/12 at 2:06 pm to s14suspense
quote:
Ouch.
Yeah that is way too rich for me.
As I have said on several occasions, you can make your own with an old keg and an angle grinder.
Posted on 4/18/12 at 3:25 pm to NimbleCat
quote:
NimbleCat
I bought a stainless 9 gallon setup with ball valve and brewmometer from brewstock in new orleans. Only cost me about $115.
Posted on 4/18/12 at 4:32 pm to BugAC
Is 9 Gal large enough?
This will be my first attempt at Home Brewing. I don't want to buy another kettle in a year because I outgrow this one.
This will be my first attempt at Home Brewing. I don't want to buy another kettle in a year because I outgrow this one.
Posted on 4/18/12 at 4:50 pm to NimbleCat
9 gallons is fine if you only plan on doing 5 gallon batches. Obviously it will not be big enough for 10 gallons but neither will that 12 gallon pot. I have a 10 gallon pot now that works at the moment but I'm on the soft market for a 15 gallon one. I used to have the kegs that swampdawg is talking about but got rid of them since I was primarily looking to do 5 gallons and they take up so much room. Probably will buy one of those you posted eventually. Unless I move.
Posted on 4/18/12 at 6:45 pm to Fratastic423
I dont have any equipment or expertise but would yall be interested in maybe having homebrewer meet ups during trips to other stadiums?
For example, if LSU comes to A&M get some homebrewers together, try each others beers and tailgate or something?
I'm about to throw down on a kit this summer and hopefully start soon, school is wearing me down until then...
For example, if LSU comes to A&M get some homebrewers together, try each others beers and tailgate or something?
I'm about to throw down on a kit this summer and hopefully start soon, school is wearing me down until then...
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