TulaneLSU's 2023 Top 10 items at Pancho's Mexican Buffet

The downtown location began to struggle, as businessman shied away from the glutinous, legume-laden hotplates that may have made after lunch deals a bit gaseous. The suburban locations, however, were booming. A third location, this time in Chalmette, opened in in April of 1986. It was located at 3027 Jean Lafitte, just off Judge Perez. It suffered catastrophic flooding in Katrina and was torn down. I remember once eating here with Mother. If my memory serves me correctly, you could look out the window and see the playing fields at the old Andrew Jackson High School. I also remember that this Pancho's tasted no where near as wonderfully as the one in Metairie, nor did its decor approach the Metairie flagship's intricate design.

The artwork in the Metairie Pancho's was dark, detailed and almost entirely oil based. The figures depicted macho military men and matadors. The women were shown in maternal or seductive ways. Once when I was examining the magnificent frame of one painting, Mother thought I was ogling the female figure’s cleavage. She corrected me and told me never to look at that painting again. She also talked to the manager to have that painting removed, which I do not think ever happened. I say I do not think because I made sure never again to look in the direction of where that painting was located.

Speaking of the frames, I have vivid memories of those painting frames. They were intricately carved wood, almost black in color, perhaps made of Katalox. Seldom if ever cleaned, I can remember thinking as a child, "These paintings and their frames are filthy. I wish someone would dust them." If memory serves me correctly, there was also a fountain near the middle of the restaurant with real running water, but that memory is hazy. I do know there was a soft serve ice cream machine in a center island of the restaurant. It was accompanied by a toppings bar filled with gummy bears, sprinkles, chocolate chips and other sweets. I hardly ever ate the ice cream because the sopaipillas were so good.

In the front, not far from the cash register, was a disgusting bar, which I assume sold alcoholic beverages, but gratefully I was never with an adult who drank alcohol. To its western side was a game room with a crane and claw game. It was owned by Lucky Coin Co. if I recall correctly, and I never once inserted a dime. They were and are after me, you know. There also were electronic video games in that game nook. At one time, it hosted Metal Gear. Mother would not let me play because it was a game of violence and she knew where that money was going. Cousin let me play once, though, and I lasted only about 45 seconds. Very early in my life I vaguely recall there was also a cigarette machine in that corner. How disgusting.

At one of cousin’s birthday parties, we went on a Friday night. And boy was it crowded. I remember we joined the line, perhaps 30 people out the door. The line was so long it wrapped nearly to the takeout counter on the southeastern corner of the building, which I never had the pleasure of trying. After all, you went to Pancho’s to eat all you could, not to get a premade dish of five items.

Waiting in that line felt like an eternity. The menu was located at the end of that long line, just where you turned right, only feet before the buffet began. That was the hardest part of the wait -- those few feet right after you made the right turn. You could smell those fatty, earthy smells. You could hear the metal heated trays hitting the metal tongs the first server used to grip the trays, because they were that hot. The steam rose from those hot water bins. And then finally, you made it. Kids plates were cheaper and you had the dishonor of getting a red plastic nest for your metal tray. Adults got the real deal, a black plastic nest. Perhaps the greatest gift of puberty was making that rite of passage where the red nests were traded for black ones.

Often the workers behind the glass sneeze guard, and this was in pre-Covid19 world, pretended they did not speak English well enough to take your order. So I then, to their surprise, ordered in Spanish. The chili rellenos, tamales, and flautas were first. I loaded up on these. Next were the enchiladas. They always had the cream cheese and cheese varieties, but there would normally be a third type, often just labeled green or red. Moving down the line were the rice and beans. I firmly believe that the workers were instructed to put an order of each on every plate. If they got your plate before you arrived to their territory -- and often that was the case as the workers were radically efficient in sliding your plate down the stainless steel line, just like a barkeep might slide a drink down the bar in the Old West -- you could be assured that rice and beans would be plopped unceremoniously on your plate as though you were in a Depression era soup line. I knew this tactic, so I always readied my lips with, “No arroz. No frijoles, por favor!” It almost always worked.

It was actually Pancho's that inspired me to learn Spanish. As an eight year old, I remember reading the signs over the door. "Bienvenidos, Amigos. Mi Casa Es Su Casa" greeted your entrance. "Gracias, Amigos. Vaya Con Dios" was written overhead the exit. Mother also did not know what it meant, so I asked her to buy me a Spanish dictionary and that summer, I spent many days memorizing the entire dictionary. Years later I learned the language's grammar. And those doors -- who can forget those heavy wooden doors clad in cast iron adornments and handles fitting for a Medieval knight?

By the time I made it to the end of the line, my plate was always full. But the tacos and chalupas were waiting! No problem, of course. The chef knew to grab one of those tan plastic plates and start serving. Usually the tacos were waiting, made just minutes before by the ever-efficient taco man. I enjoyed watching the craftsman at work, so I would often order two chalupas, just so I could watch him or her, as it was normally a woman at that position, make my chalupas, which I got with beans, meat, cheese, lettuce, and tomatoes. They were superb, and quite the novelty, as no where else I had ever eaten served tacos on a flat shell.

The drink section was next. I without exception got a tap water in those cheap, yellow plastic cups that had a comforting ridged texture. Although Jefferson Parish’s tap water is not as good as N.O. Sewage & Water Board water, it is still excellent. Often times, especially when it was crowded, you had to stand at the drink line to wait for the usher to bring you to an open table. Once there, everyone knows what came next. An absolute festival of extravagant eating. Without realizing it, a basket of chips arrived, but did chips ever deserve to hold a spot in your belly when enchiladas and tamales were ready and able claimstakers?

Soon it would be time to raise the flag, a term so endearing to so many New Orleanians. It was for many, not only their first experience with Mexican food but also with all-you-can-eat style. The flag was your one way ticket on this wonderful trip to obesity, diabetes, and heart disease. And did it ever feel so wonderful when you raised it! The service was always exceptional. I can hardly remember an episode where the flag flew for more than a minute. I figured the manager threatened staff with banishment if he saw that our flag was still there.

Friends, as in Chalmette, Pancho’s in Metairie did not recover from the floods. I was told that Broussard’s pumping station fiasco caused about a foot of rainwater to fill that Pancho’s. Pancho’s national was already undergoing cuts and consolidation. Profits at this store were already being marginalized by people eating Mexican food elsewhere.

There are many new additions to the Pancho’s dining room food bar. At one time, all of Pancho’s food was along the buffet line, but over the years, they have expanded offerings of foods in the dining room. Some of the new foods there include several soups, chicharrones, a salsa bar, and a dessert bar, filled with Christmas Jello, cake, flan, and churros.







After eating 35 different items at one sitting, it is important that there be clean and open bathrooms. I can confirm that Pancho’s has not failed us in this regard. The toilet area was large and had a changing station. It was cleaner than a Bucee’s bathroom, and smelled better too. When I suggested to my server, a delightful 85 year old woman who moved slowly yet deliberately, that they put a sign above the bathroom door that read, like their exit sign, “Vaya con Dios,” she laughed. And I laughed too!



Her name was Ms. Gabriela, and she was a sweetheart. Though it took her ten minutes to come to my call when I raised the flag first, I told she need not apologize. “I am here for the entire experience, not just the food.” I then began to tell her my stories about Pancho’s. After five minutes, I offered her a seat at my otherwise empty table, but she said she was not allowed to sit with customers.



While I did not have time to share with her all my memories, I did share with her my updated Top 10 Pancho’s list, which she said she would share with the owner. I would like to share that list with you now.

TulaneLSU's Top 10 dishes at Pancho’s Mexican Buffet:

10. Chips and salsa



I do not think I ever tried the chips or salsa at the other Pancho’s, but I found them outstanding. If these were served in a trendy new Mexican restaurant, they would be hailed as excellent. Easy to overlook, they are better than any chips and salsa I have thus far had in Louisiana.


9. Taco



Much better than Taco Bell, they no longer offer just tomatoes as a topping, so it has dropped in my rankings.


8. Flauta





Faithful and reliable, this recipe has not changed. I ate four or five.


7. Pancho’s spicy coleslaw



One of the new items on the dining room food bar, the spicy cole slaw was acidic, crunchy, fresh, and hot. It went great as a topping on the tacos. And it was great as a stand alone salad.


6. Ranchero bean soup



Wow! This was like a flavorful and rich Senate bean soup from McGuire’s in Destin. A basic but entirely triumphant soup that would make a great meal on its own.


5. Chalupa



The chalupa was better than I remember. The tortilla shell was fresh and airy, crackery and with pockets of air. The fryer should get a raise.


4. Chile relleno





The recipe has not changed. How ever do they get such a yellow and puffy coating? The coating is a bit much for me, so I always remove half of it. The chile is filled with cheese, and this must carry Pancho’s highest cost to make.


3. Beef tamale



Another old standard, as a child I would usually ask the waitress to load my second plate with 12 beef tamales, one representing each of the disciples. Again, the recipe and ingredients used today are faithful to the original. Some criticize these for being dry, but I think they are excellent. Because husks slow me down, I have always preferred this non-husk tamale so as not to slow down my eating.


2. Sour cream enchilada



Until yesterday, I would have told anyone and everyone, even Ms. Gabriela, that the easy #1 at Pancho’s is the sour cream enchilada. While great, I found that some of the sour cream clumped, which detracted two points from my score. It is another classic whose taste and texture are the same today as they were in 1995.

This is your allotment on posts for the day.

Ok. We are more similar than I expected.

I wish we still had one in La.

I always thought it was interesting how you never saw any road kill in front of Panchos.

Raising the flag at Panchos was a highlight of childhood

with the abundant amount of vastly superior Tex-Mex in Houston, you should visit one to cleanse your palate.

Great info. I remember the places on Gravier and in BR.