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Power strip recommendations
Posted on 11/19/21 at 11:04 am
Posted on 11/19/21 at 11:04 am
Wondering what people have had good success with?
Story goes: I recently lost the neutral leg, snapped clean into, between pole and house. Lost a few things and saved a bunch with two powers strips. One (a nameless brand) survived and the other a Cyber Power didn't. Thankfully both saved everything they powered. I'd buy the Cyber Power again since it was an $25-30 version and worked...
. . . but was interested in what others had history with or recommend?
Story goes: I recently lost the neutral leg, snapped clean into, between pole and house. Lost a few things and saved a bunch with two powers strips. One (a nameless brand) survived and the other a Cyber Power didn't. Thankfully both saved everything they powered. I'd buy the Cyber Power again since it was an $25-30 version and worked...
. . . but was interested in what others had history with or recommend?
1
Posted on 11/19/21 at 11:16 am to awestruck
I use typical middle of the road power strips. Non-surge protector type. I plug them into a UPS and let that do all the work. I haven't lost a piece of equipment since I went this route.
Posted on 11/19/21 at 12:30 pm to LsuFan_1955
... also do that. 
However I have more things than my primary battery backup allows. Maybe a couple smaller backups spread across different circuits would do.
However I have more things than my primary battery backup allows. Maybe a couple smaller backups spread across different circuits would do.
Posted on 11/19/21 at 4:27 pm to awestruck
Yes, you'll need to add more UPS units, or if you're OT rich just get a whole house UPS! 
I have APC UPS units on every piece of electronic equipment I own, and every UPS is capable of powering 2-3 times the gear they are backing up. I'm probably way past the "overkill line."
I have APC UPS units on every piece of electronic equipment I own, and every UPS is capable of powering 2-3 times the gear they are backing up. I'm probably way past the "overkill line." Posted on 11/20/21 at 8:58 am to awestruck
Protection routinely inside electronics is equal or more robust than any plug-in protector. Long list of items, not on a protector, apparently were unharmed. Including dishwasher, clock radios, LED & CFL bulbs, central air, doorbell, recharging electronics, garage door opener, furnace, GFCIs, digital clocks, refrigerator, dimmer switches, stove, and smoke detectors. What protected all them?
Protectors adjacent to appliance do not claim effective protection. Protection (to even protect less robust plug-in protectors) must be at the service entrance. These superior products (from other companies known for integrity) cost about $1 per protected appliance. Come with numbers that even claim protection from direct lightning strikes.
A protector that failed did not do protection. To avert a house fire, its thermal fuse must disconnect protector parts as fast as possible. Leaving that destructive transient fully connected to nearby appliances.
Superior protection inside electronics protected electronics.
Some numbers. Long before PCs existed, international design standards required 120 volt electronics to withstand transients up to 600 volts without damage. Normal operation for many 120 volt powered electronics is constant voltages even at 265 volts. Nobody can say those protectors did anything useful without citing specification numbers.
So that plug-in protectors do not create a house fire (when failing), informed consumers earth a 'whole house' protector (at the service entrance). Lightning is typically 20,000 amps. So a minimal 'whole house' protector is 50,000 amps. Since protectors, that fail, do no protection. Effective protectors must even earth direct lightning strikes. Remain functional for many decades. With specification numbers that say so.
A thousands joules protector is often inferior to protection inside electronics. It can fail. Electronics survive. Then wild speculation credits that protector; not protection that is required to be inside all electronics.
Effective protection only exists when at the service entrance. Must have low impedance (ie less than 10 foot) connection to earth ground electrodes. A failing protector means protector parts disconnected as fast as possible - leaving a destructive voltage fully connected to appliances. Service entrance protectors are sized so as to not fail.
Protectors adjacent to appliance do not claim effective protection. Protection (to even protect less robust plug-in protectors) must be at the service entrance. These superior products (from other companies known for integrity) cost about $1 per protected appliance. Come with numbers that even claim protection from direct lightning strikes.
A protector that failed did not do protection. To avert a house fire, its thermal fuse must disconnect protector parts as fast as possible. Leaving that destructive transient fully connected to nearby appliances.
Superior protection inside electronics protected electronics.
Some numbers. Long before PCs existed, international design standards required 120 volt electronics to withstand transients up to 600 volts without damage. Normal operation for many 120 volt powered electronics is constant voltages even at 265 volts. Nobody can say those protectors did anything useful without citing specification numbers.
So that plug-in protectors do not create a house fire (when failing), informed consumers earth a 'whole house' protector (at the service entrance). Lightning is typically 20,000 amps. So a minimal 'whole house' protector is 50,000 amps. Since protectors, that fail, do no protection. Effective protectors must even earth direct lightning strikes. Remain functional for many decades. With specification numbers that say so.
A thousands joules protector is often inferior to protection inside electronics. It can fail. Electronics survive. Then wild speculation credits that protector; not protection that is required to be inside all electronics.
Effective protection only exists when at the service entrance. Must have low impedance (ie less than 10 foot) connection to earth ground electrodes. A failing protector means protector parts disconnected as fast as possible - leaving a destructive voltage fully connected to appliances. Service entrance protectors are sized so as to not fail.
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