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Started By
Message
Home theater projector and screen advice/recs
Posted on 5/6/16 at 11:31 pm
Posted on 5/6/16 at 11:31 pm
We are about to start building a new house and my wife is letting me use the bonus room as a home theater. We are going to hire a local company to do the design and install, but I want to do a lot of research on the projector. I am hoping some people on here have gone through, or currently going through, the process of choosing a projector and screen. I figured screen brand, material, and color are dependent on the projector. The models I am looking at are:
JVC DLA-RS500U
Epson LS10000
JVC DLA-RS600U
Sony VPL-VW365ES
Does anyone have experience with these? The Sony is the only native 4k projector on the list, but most reviews I have seen put the JVC models right there with or a bit above the Sony in terms of picture quality.
The room is 19 x 19 x 9 and has only one window, so controlling ambient lighting is not a problem. I just traded in my old surround processor for the new Atmos and 4k capable version today, so I already have all the audio equipment and speakers.
It will be a Dolby Atmos 7.1.4 setup. The fronts, center, and rear channels are floor speakers. The sides will be mounted on the wall, and the height channels will be mounted in the ceiling. This should hopefully give me a lot more options on screen since the speakers will not be placed behind it.
Any thoughts or suggestions would be much appreciated!
JVC DLA-RS500U
Epson LS10000
JVC DLA-RS600U
Sony VPL-VW365ES
Does anyone have experience with these? The Sony is the only native 4k projector on the list, but most reviews I have seen put the JVC models right there with or a bit above the Sony in terms of picture quality.
The room is 19 x 19 x 9 and has only one window, so controlling ambient lighting is not a problem. I just traded in my old surround processor for the new Atmos and 4k capable version today, so I already have all the audio equipment and speakers.
It will be a Dolby Atmos 7.1.4 setup. The fronts, center, and rear channels are floor speakers. The sides will be mounted on the wall, and the height channels will be mounted in the ceiling. This should hopefully give me a lot more options on screen since the speakers will not be placed behind it.
Any thoughts or suggestions would be much appreciated!
4
Posted on 5/7/16 at 2:47 pm to ever43
That sounds awesome! You may get better help over at AVSforums. They have specific forums for projectors and the people there are extremely knowledgeable.
Posted on 5/8/16 at 5:07 pm to NewIberiaHaircut
Yep. When you're about to spend bank on a home theater, that's the place to ask for advice.
It's been 6 years since I've been able to use a projector (won't get another one until I buy a home). I really miss it.
It's been 6 years since I've been able to use a projector (won't get another one until I buy a home). I really miss it.
Posted on 5/9/16 at 8:34 am to ever43
You're buying at a time when projectors are (hopefully) about to make the swing into 4K for affordable prices. Although by the price of the Sony, maybe money doesn't matter to you.
For a screen, I would get something that is acoustically transparent and in 2:35:1. Then get an anamorphic lens. Your room is big enough to build a false wall and hide the L/C/R speakers behind the screen.
For a screen, I would get something that is acoustically transparent and in 2:35:1. Then get an anamorphic lens. Your room is big enough to build a false wall and hide the L/C/R speakers behind the screen.
Posted on 5/9/16 at 11:14 am to ever43
quote:
Sony is the only native 4k projector
I sell both Sony and JVC, Sony is the way to go.
Posted on 5/9/16 at 11:37 am to TigerWise
I agree with Tigerwise.
Personally I wouldn't get an acoustically transparent screen. That room is wide enough to do in wall speakers on each side and a center channel above or below the screen. The compromise in image quality from the screen just wouldn't be worth it to me.
I'd recommend a Stewart Filmscreen screen. They're expensive but worth the price IMO. I have a StudioTek 130 screen in my theater with a stealth trap door and tab tensioned screen and love it.
Personally I wouldn't get an acoustically transparent screen. That room is wide enough to do in wall speakers on each side and a center channel above or below the screen. The compromise in image quality from the screen just wouldn't be worth it to me.
I'd recommend a Stewart Filmscreen screen. They're expensive but worth the price IMO. I have a StudioTek 130 screen in my theater with a stealth trap door and tab tensioned screen and love it.
This post was edited on 5/9/16 at 11:40 am
Posted on 6/4/16 at 2:18 am to VABuckeye
I am going with the Sony VPL-VW365ES. I am down to a few screens though, any thoughts?
Stewart Deluxe with StudioTek 100 (125")
Stewart LuminEsse with StudioTek 100 (123")
Screen Innovations 7 Series Black Diamond (120")
I am definitely not putting my speakers behind the screen. The room and speakers are also going to be used for 2 channel audio and my 802's are too good looking to hide.
Stewart Deluxe with StudioTek 100 (125")
Stewart LuminEsse with StudioTek 100 (123")
Screen Innovations 7 Series Black Diamond (120")
I am definitely not putting my speakers behind the screen. The room and speakers are also going to be used for 2 channel audio and my 802's are too good looking to hide.
Posted on 6/4/16 at 6:32 am to ever43
quote:
Screen Innovations 7 Series Black Diamond (120")
Have you watched video on one of these yet ?
Posted on 6/4/16 at 6:34 am to ever43
First, congrats. Just two comments.
I'd get it professionally calibrated for optimal performance. Secondly 120"+ is a lot of screen to drive. I'd be more inclined to go with a 110" screen as the max size. Those extra 10" are a lot of screen material to put light on. If the room is a dedicated theater with complete light control you might get acceptable results but there's no way I'd go that big in an all purpose room. My Stewart screen is 100" diagonal and its in a dedicated theater with complete light control. Bigger is not always better.
Enjoy!
I'd get it professionally calibrated for optimal performance. Secondly 120"+ is a lot of screen to drive. I'd be more inclined to go with a 110" screen as the max size. Those extra 10" are a lot of screen material to put light on. If the room is a dedicated theater with complete light control you might get acceptable results but there's no way I'd go that big in an all purpose room. My Stewart screen is 100" diagonal and its in a dedicated theater with complete light control. Bigger is not always better.
Enjoy!
Posted on 6/4/16 at 1:30 pm to TigerWise
quote:I like the JVC DILA images myself.
I sell both Sony and JVC, Sony is the way to go.
Posted on 6/17/16 at 2:39 am to TigerWise
quote:
Have you watched video on one of these yet ?
Yes. The sparkle in some scenes bothered me.
Posted on 6/17/16 at 2:55 am to VABuckeye
quote:
I'd get it professionally calibrated for optimal performance. Secondly 120"+ is a lot of screen to drive. I'd be more inclined to go with a 110" screen as the max size. Those extra 10" are a lot of screen material to put light on. If the room is a dedicated theater with complete light control you might get acceptable results but there's no way I'd go that big in an all purpose room. My Stewart screen is 100" diagonal and its in a dedicated theater with complete light control. Bigger is not always better.
The whole theater is being built, installed, and calibrated by a very good company here in Bham. They have an ISF certified guy on staff to calibrate screen and projector. The room is going to have complete light control. Painting the walls and ceiling a very dark gray.
All of my AV equipment is McIntosh ( 7 pieces). Like most people, I'm going with Mid Atlantic racks. The Mac rack is going to be built into the wall so it's flush and has an access room behind it for the other gear and ability to get to back of the Macs.
We are trying to figure out how to have them visible but not have their lights screw up the picture. Either going with a smoked glass door or a motorized screen that comes down on tracks inside the frame molding when it's serious movie and picture time.
Posted on 6/17/16 at 3:51 am to ever43
I got a benq on amazon and painted my wall. Cost me under $600.
I'm sure there is a nicer, way more expensive route. But I'm perfectly content with my set up.
All the info I got was from seeing friend's set ups and avsforums.
I'm sure there is a nicer, way more expensive route. But I'm perfectly content with my set up.
All the info I got was from seeing friend's set ups and avsforums.
This post was edited on 6/17/16 at 3:55 am
Posted on 6/17/16 at 6:03 am to ever43
quote:
The sparkle in some scenes bothered me.
It drives me nuts, I couldn't own one.
Posted on 6/17/16 at 7:02 am to ever43
Middle Atlantic racks are great. I have two of them built into shelving/cabinets in the back of the theater. One houses the whole house audio stuff and the other houses the theater gear.
We built a bulkhead into the front wall that houses the Stewart electric screen when it is up. It looks great and also provides easy access in case servicing is ever needed. With the level of gear you have I'd really suggest a Stewart screen. They really are a cut above the rest IMO.
We built a bulkhead into the front wall that houses the Stewart electric screen when it is up. It looks great and also provides easy access in case servicing is ever needed. With the level of gear you have I'd really suggest a Stewart screen. They really are a cut above the rest IMO.
Posted on 6/17/16 at 7:50 am to TigerWise
quote:
It drives me nuts, I couldn't own one
Thats sucks...I havent seen one in person but it looked promising.
Is it on the second floor or first floor? I love the effects of bass shakers on the seats. If its on the second floor the subs will probably be able to give that feeling but if on the first floor maybe you can add them to the seats...or build a platform and put them on that.
Anyone think there might be bass issues in a square room? I thought that was a issue for standing waves or whatever. My non dedicated room is almost square with some big openings and bass does not do that well in it. Best spot so far is nearfield behind the sofa but im not done playing around with it.
Can that me tuned out with room treatments? 4 subs one per wall?
This post was edited on 6/17/16 at 7:55 am
Posted on 6/17/16 at 8:02 am to NOLAGT
Standing waves are always an issue to deal with. Placement is the key. Four subs would be overkill IMO. You can generally use two subs and with proper placement do as much as you can about standing waves. I used to know the formulas but must admit that I haven't dealt with it in a while as our focus is now on commercial work.
Posted on 6/17/16 at 8:15 am to VABuckeye
Yea not saying need 4 (all tho im a basshead so the more the better)...you need what the room needs to even out the frequencies. Just thought I had read thats what some suggest. Was just bringing it up in case for the OP...bass is like a female...very touchy Can make you pucker in one spot and 3' to the left its gone 
Another idea if its not too late is some sound deadening board for the walls/floor for late night viewing and to make it as quiet in that room as possible.
Can make you pucker in one spot and 3' to the left its gone Another idea if its not too late is some sound deadening board for the walls/floor for late night viewing and to make it as quiet in that room as possible.
This post was edited on 6/17/16 at 8:17 am
Posted on 6/17/16 at 9:11 pm to TigerWise
quote:
The sparkle in some scenes bothered me.
quote:Sounds like a cheap screen. My Stewart StudioTek 130 has a gain of 1, meaning it does not amplify the light. Zero sparkle, Hotspots or aberrations from shooting onto a floated out wall painted with screen goo. Spend the money. It's worth it.
It drives me nuts, I couldn't own one.
Also, projector brightness is not everything. In fact, I find that it's hardly anything. I used to perform calibration training for ISF and would give seminars with Joe Kane, Kevin Miller and Sam Runco. What's important is contrast. A digital projector can't get anywhere near the color depth and contrast if an old school three tube CRT projector. I can't tell you how many times I would perform calibration on a digital projector, and we'd start projecting about 800-1300 lumens, but by the time it was properly calibrated we'd be down to 350-400 lumens, or less. But, the images can be eye popping once the projector is properly calibrated. These were, of course, in light controlled home theaters where ambient lighting isn't an issue.
Posted on 6/18/16 at 8:30 pm to ever43
quote:
ever43
You can turn off all the meters on the McIntosh gear with the push of a button on the main remote...provided you are using the 12v triggers daisy chained from box to box.
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