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Who here has been backpacking in Big Bend National Park?

Posted on 3/12/15 at 12:40 pm
Posted by Chicken
Jackassistan
Member since Aug 2003
21959 posts
Posted on 3/12/15 at 12:40 pm
Even if you only did car camping with day hikes, how was the experience?

I would like to take a backpacking trip this year and am thinking about Big Bend...

Does it get crowded at all?

Posted by LoneStarTiger
Lone Star State
Member since Aug 2004
15938 posts
Posted on 3/12/15 at 1:00 pm to
quote:

Who here has been backpacking in Big Bend National Park?


i have

quote:

how was the experience?


awesome. Great trails through the Chisos mountains and the desert floor, and along the river. Throw in some hot springs and you're set.

quote:

Does it get crowded at all?


yes, but you can also get away form the crowds

This post was edited on 3/12/15 at 1:00 pm
Posted by TBoy
Kalamazoo
Member since Dec 2007
23658 posts
Posted on 3/12/15 at 1:08 pm to
I've been to Big Bend and it is great. The Basin is crowded as is the main campground on the river, but that place is huge. It has pretty much every kind of ecosystem on earth. If you are a self-reliant outdoors person, you can get real remote and alone, and see a real night sky.
Posted by White Roach
Member since Apr 2009
9449 posts
Posted on 3/12/15 at 1:22 pm to
Yes. Go in the Spring, if you can. It's beautiful when the desert plants are blooming. It a gigantic park, so you can get away from the crowds if you want to.

I did a 4 night backpack in the Chisos and down to the desert floor and back up loop. Saw very few people once I was a couple of miles from the parking lot. Started and finished at the developed campground & lodge area in the mountains (I can't remember the name off the top of my head, but it was about 5,000' of elevation. Got very cold at night, balmy days.) Some trails in the Chisos area may be closed because the Peregrine Falcons are nesting.

There's also campground right by the Rio Grande. It can get very windy, make sure your tent is staked down well!
Posted by Chicken
Jackassistan
Member since Aug 2003
21959 posts
Posted on 3/12/15 at 1:26 pm to
quote:

yes, but you can also get away form the crowds
I assume that if you backback the backcountry, you will be away from the crowds...here is a page I found on backpacking at Big Bend:

LINK

quote:

Chisos Mountains Backcountry Campsites
Backpackers in the Chisos Mountains can choose from forty-two designated campsites.

Outer Mountain Loop, Mesa de Anguila, and Marufo Vega Trail
The most remote areas of Big Bend National Park are best left to experienced backpackers. Each year, park rangers respond to desert emergencies when hikers are not prepared for the heat and extreme conditions of the desert.

Due to the complex topography and vague trails, detailed 7.5 minute topographical maps and a compass are necessary for most hikes.

Outer Mountain Loop
Mesa de Anguila
Marufo Vega Trail
Posted by boom roasted
Member since Sep 2010
28039 posts
Posted on 3/12/15 at 1:33 pm to
We stayed in the nearby town of Terlingua and drove to Big Bend every day. Not a long drive at all.

Incredible views. Lost Mine Trail was gorgeous.

Not sure about crowded. We went in late December.
Posted by jimbeam
University of LSU
Member since Oct 2011
75703 posts
Posted on 3/12/15 at 1:34 pm to
If you stay on trails for multiple days at a time, how easy is getting water
Posted by MadtownTiger
Texas
Member since Sep 2010
4204 posts
Posted on 3/12/15 at 1:45 pm to
Just got back from there in January, had to go through a geology field camp. I would not recommend ever going during late december - february.

Power went in and out from ice storms, which is not all that important when camping in the spring. We stayed in the Chisos mountain basin area, really nice camp sites... bear proof containers, covered picnic tables, flat cleared tent sites.

I personally didn't enjoy it at that time, cause of the teen degrees at night along with 3-season oriented camp gear that couldn't handle the temps and torrential rains we got.

The Chisos lodge area is very accommodating with a store, restaurant, and lodging but the rooms are stupid expensive.

Would definitely stick to the trails though, a lot of our work was off the trails, and I think I'm still holding some cactus spines in my legs. But if I were to do it again, I'd probably stay down by the river. Significantly warmer than up the mountain, plus its prettier.

Posted by jimbeam
University of LSU
Member since Oct 2011
75703 posts
Posted on 3/12/15 at 1:46 pm to
I'd be going late May

Planning something for that time period. This place is an option
This post was edited on 3/12/15 at 1:47 pm
Posted by Chicken
Jackassistan
Member since Aug 2003
21959 posts
Posted on 3/12/15 at 2:40 pm to
White Roach, what did you do for water?
Posted by White Roach
Member since Apr 2009
9449 posts
Posted on 3/12/15 at 2:50 pm to
I don't remember exactly when I was there, but I think it was early to mid April. There were water sources (springs & streams) in the Chisos, but based on what the Rangers told me, nothing dependable in the desert. So I day hiked in to where I'd be passing on my backpack trip and cached 3-1/2 gallon of water. It was a good thing I did, because I'd have been screwed without it. I didn't see a drop for two days.

I'm not sure how much it dries up by May, but I'd guess it would be much drier and hotter by then.
Posted by jimbeam
University of LSU
Member since Oct 2011
75703 posts
Posted on 3/12/15 at 2:55 pm to
Chicken, that is a repeated question in this thread. Please read more diligently.....



Posted by Chicken
Jackassistan
Member since Aug 2003
21959 posts
Posted on 3/12/15 at 2:56 pm to
What do you mean "cached"? Where did you store it?
Posted by White Roach
Member since Apr 2009
9449 posts
Posted on 3/12/15 at 3:15 pm to
Loaded up from faucets at the campground to start. I left w/ 15(+) lbs of fluid in my pack. 4 one liter bottles and a 3 liter Platypus. Found a good water source the first afternoon/evening in the mountains. Filled up then, and again in the morning. Down into the desert on Day 2 and couldn't find a drop (but started the day w/ 7 liters) Picked up my cache (3-1/2gal) mid-morning of the next day (Day 3), and spent a second night in the desert. Back into the mountains on Day 4 and was out of water by the time I climbed up. Found water that night, hiked out Day 5.

I can't emphasize how much the low humidity dries you out. (Or me at least!) I was drinking btwn 1-1/2 and 2 gallons of fluid a day, of which about 40 or 50% was Gatorade mix, and was still feeling dehydrated at times. I think the total loop was only like 31 or 33 miles, with about 3,500-4,000' of elevation loss and gain. It wasn't like I was hiking 20 miles a day, but the climate sucks it out of you. No shade to be found in the desert and a spot to put a tent was hard to come by. Sticky things everywhere!

That having been said, it's a beautiful place and you should check it out. I've never seen a night sky like I did in Big Bend (with the possible exception of Alaska). Just plan carefully and you'll be fine.
Posted by White Roach
Member since Apr 2009
9449 posts
Posted on 3/12/15 at 3:22 pm to
Re: water cache

I planned my backpack route. Found a point I should be at on Day 3 that was only a few miles from a paved road. Drove out there, loaded 2-1/2 gal and 1 gal plastic jugs of water into my daypack and started walking. Found a suitable spot and stashed the jugs under a pile of stones. Shot a couple of compass bearings and marked my map, and created a waypoint on my GPS, then hiked back to the car.
Posted by TBoy
Kalamazoo
Member since Dec 2007
23658 posts
Posted on 3/12/15 at 3:27 pm to
There is no water in most of the park. If you have a four wheel jeep you can jeep camp in some of the remote grassland/dessert, and haul all of the water you will need plus at least 10 or more extra gallons in case you break down. When we hiked and overnight camped in the back country areas, we carried all of the water we would need. There were no reliable sources of water in the back country. I used a 5 liter franzia wine bladder filled with water in my backpack and always had enough for myself on the overnights. We alternated back country camping and our base camp at the river and loved it. We did not do an extended back country packing trip.
This post was edited on 3/12/15 at 3:30 pm
Posted by LoneStarTiger
Lone Star State
Member since Aug 2004
15938 posts
Posted on 3/12/15 at 3:56 pm to
quote:

If you stay on trails for multiple days at a time, how easy is getting water


its not

I packed into the mountains to our spot, set up camp, then hiked out and back in loaded with water.
Posted by Flair Chops
to the west, my soul is bound
Member since Nov 2010
35570 posts
Posted on 3/12/15 at 4:02 pm to
i don't have a ton of personal experience i can share with you, but i can tell you that big bend is the least visited national park in the lower 48, due to its location. i have come across several that have been there and have never heard an unkind word about it. if you plan on doing any back country camping, you will need to secure a permit.
Posted by rattlebucket
SELA
Member since Feb 2009
11424 posts
Posted on 3/12/15 at 4:05 pm to
Havent been since spring of 1997. You should Hike the chisos, camp in the desert too. Make your way to the hot springs on the rio grande, hike to the summit(7k ft i think). You do need to checkout campsites at the base station before hiking if you plan to stay overnight.

Was not crowded. Its not a hard hike but it weeds out a lot of peeps. Peregrine falcons, ravens, deer and these stupid blue jays you will see. We took a jeep and brought a pup tent. Cheapest but maybe one of the best vacations I ever took. Enjoy



Eta: whoops. Pretty much everything i said was already posted
This post was edited on 3/12/15 at 4:10 pm
Posted by Chicken
Jackassistan
Member since Aug 2003
21959 posts
Posted on 3/12/15 at 4:10 pm to
quote:

if you plan on doing any back country camping, you will need to secure a permit.
yeah, looks like you need to secure a permit within 24 hours of your trip...and you can only do it in person.

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