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Started By
Message
Car audio amplifier repair
Posted on 12/26/14 at 10:25 am
Posted on 12/26/14 at 10:25 am
Do any of yall know about fixing car audio amps? I've got one that worked well for the longest time. Thinking about trying to fix it myself since the parts are so cheap. I've never done any electronic repair work before, and would rather not pay $100/hr for a tech to fix it. Installed it in my new truck and it went kaput. Power connections are fine. The problem is 100% internal.
Symptoms:
Turned on and worked fine
Randomly, made a popping noise and what sounded like bad RCA noise through speakers
At that point, I tested the RCA inputs, and the left rear was bad
Made same noises again
Popped 2 of 4 fuses
Won't turn on
Burnt smell from power transformers
I've tested all of the FETs right to left, and 3 total out of the first four on both sides are bad as far as I can tell. The next two on each side seem bad, but idk what they are for or what switches them. The last four on each side seem to all be bad, but once again, I don't know what I'm testing for. Also, 4 of the resistors are bad.
Here is a picture of it. If any of yall can give me a direction to go in, maybe YouTube videos to watch, or websites to read, I'd appreciate it.
Symptoms:
Turned on and worked fine
Randomly, made a popping noise and what sounded like bad RCA noise through speakers
At that point, I tested the RCA inputs, and the left rear was bad
Made same noises again
Popped 2 of 4 fuses
Won't turn on
Burnt smell from power transformers
I've tested all of the FETs right to left, and 3 total out of the first four on both sides are bad as far as I can tell. The next two on each side seem bad, but idk what they are for or what switches them. The last four on each side seem to all be bad, but once again, I don't know what I'm testing for. Also, 4 of the resistors are bad.
Here is a picture of it. If any of yall can give me a direction to go in, maybe YouTube videos to watch, or websites to read, I'd appreciate it.
This post was edited on 12/26/14 at 10:32 am
3
Posted on 12/26/14 at 10:34 am to Hammertime
NB4 Comments about High School
Posted on 12/26/14 at 10:41 am to SG_Geaux
FWIW, 2004 Bose doesn't sound that good. My OEM radio was broken, so I got a new one for Christmas. Had speakers and amps sitting in storage, so I decided to rewire the entire truck, build a custom box for a 6.5" sub under the console, and replace all of the speakers. Definitely doesn't bump, but sounded good for about 30 minutes until my highs amp popped. Now, it doesn't sound good
It's no different than someone getting an upgraded audio system from the factory
It's no different than someone getting an upgraded audio system from the factory
This post was edited on 12/26/14 at 10:44 am
Posted on 12/26/14 at 11:11 am to Hammertime
Nothing wrong with wanting better audio.
Posted on 12/26/14 at 11:24 am to Hammertime
You probably blew the caps (capacitors) on that channel. Those are the 4 black tower shaped things bunched together on each side.
If an amp hasn't been used in quite some time, it is recommended to use a variac to slowly bring the caps back to full charge gradually--that's what a variac will do.
If an amp hasn't been used in quite some time, it is recommended to use a variac to slowly bring the caps back to full charge gradually--that's what a variac will do.
Posted on 12/26/14 at 11:33 am to Marco Esquandolas
It sat for close to 4 years. What I'm reading online is that the caps would look bloated if they were bad. Is there any other way for me to test them because they look and smell fine?
Also, it is not just one channel. The entire amp will not power on anymore. Would blowing capacitors cause that to happen.
I am assuming that the power transformers are bad because they both smell like sweet burnt plastic
I appreciate the help man. Going right now to connect the CD player to the speakers. Have to melt all of the damn solder I put the wires on there with. Hopefully I don't get lead poisoning from all of this soldering
Also, it is not just one channel. The entire amp will not power on anymore. Would blowing capacitors cause that to happen.
I am assuming that the power transformers are bad because they both smell like sweet burnt plastic
I appreciate the help man. Going right now to connect the CD player to the speakers. Have to melt all of the damn solder I put the wires on there with. Hopefully I don't get lead poisoning from all of this soldering
Posted on 12/26/14 at 1:20 pm to Hammertime
I've got an Infiniti amp going bad after having it for 7 years. I'm just gonna buy a new one.
Now my old friend... my Orion 225 that I've had for nearly 30 years. I'd probably pay for that to be fixed.
Now my old friend... my Orion 225 that I've had for nearly 30 years. I'd probably pay for that to be fixed.
Posted on 12/26/14 at 1:40 pm to Hammertime
Did you see or smell any smoke?
I heard that once you let the magic smoke out of something electrical that it ain't gonna work no more.
Good luck, all the same.
I heard that once you let the magic smoke out of something electrical that it ain't gonna work no more.
Good luck, all the same.
Posted on 12/26/14 at 1:49 pm to Grassy1
No smoke, but the power transistors smell burnt (IIRC $12 part)
Posted on 12/26/14 at 2:34 pm to Hammertime
If your transformers (power supplies) are burnt, then they need be replaced. The issue is now--what caused them to do this?
This post was edited on 12/26/14 at 2:35 pm
Posted on 12/26/14 at 4:04 pm to Marco Esquandolas
That's the point I'm at now.
So far I know broken:
Both transformers
A few FETs
A few resistors
Also popped 2/4 fuses
Power connections are all good. Speaker grounds go from each speaker to the amp crossovers, so that eliminates that. I don't know
So far I know broken:
Both transformers
A few FETs
A few resistors
Also popped 2/4 fuses
Power connections are all good. Speaker grounds go from each speaker to the amp crossovers, so that eliminates that. I don't know
This post was edited on 12/26/14 at 4:06 pm
Posted on 12/26/14 at 7:16 pm to Hammertime
Are you in New Orleans?
Posted on 12/26/14 at 8:35 pm to Marco Esquandolas
Yup, and as per 5 different places, there is only one guy in the city who fixes car audio stuff.
I'd think about taking it to the EE dept at school, but those tards would probably spend 9 hours doing calculations before they soldered one thing (not to mention the fact that I don't really trust some dumb kid to work on a $500 amp)
I'd think about taking it to the EE dept at school, but those tards would probably spend 9 hours doing calculations before they soldered one thing (not to mention the fact that I don't really trust some dumb kid to work on a $500 amp)
Posted on 12/26/14 at 8:48 pm to Hammertime
quote:
my Orion 225
The best Amps ever made. Up until 1998 anyway. Anything from Orion during gt at time is worth it's weight in gold. I use to have 2-225 reds with the built in cross over and a 250. You could push a concert system with those amps.
Seriously though, if you just need medium power and your looking clean sound, why don't you just buy a new amp? What your looking to do, you can find a great amp for cheap. Your probably going to spend more in time and parts to repair a 10'year old amp that has no where near the sound quality of today's amps.
Posted on 12/26/14 at 9:19 pm to Hammertime
Have you spoken with Richard Gray at National TV Repair? He is near Ochsner Hospital on Jefferson Hwy. He is the Zen Master of audio repair. He repairs all the extreme high end stuff for the audio nerds like me but also does $300 TVs too.
Google "Richard Gray's Power Company" to see his line of power conditioners--the real deal.
Call him or stop by--he may do it--you never know until you ask him.
He is there Monday thru Thursday 9-4.
Google "Richard Gray's Power Company" to see his line of power conditioners--the real deal.
Call him or stop by--he may do it--you never know until you ask him.
He is there Monday thru Thursday 9-4.
This post was edited on 12/26/14 at 9:21 pm
Posted on 12/27/14 at 9:32 pm to Marco Esquandolas
Will do next week. Most of the places I have gone to and called either only work on AC stuff, or only work on very specific things like guitar amps. I don't know what the problem is with working on both because when it comes down to it, they're all the same.
I'm not the type to sell a car because I got a flat tire. The amp is high quality, and that is something you don't find anymore. It is rated at 125x4 and does every bit of that. On a newer amp, a rating of 125x4 means it is realistically pushing around 50x4. Manufacturers extremely overrate their stuff now.
My other amp is a MTX 250d, and it bench tested at peak 423 watts. My buddy has some cheapy amp that is rated at 1000x1, and the difference was barely noticeable between the two.
I'm not the type to sell a car because I got a flat tire. The amp is high quality, and that is something you don't find anymore. It is rated at 125x4 and does every bit of that. On a newer amp, a rating of 125x4 means it is realistically pushing around 50x4. Manufacturers extremely overrate their stuff now.
My other amp is a MTX 250d, and it bench tested at peak 423 watts. My buddy has some cheapy amp that is rated at 1000x1, and the difference was barely noticeable between the two.
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