OT Appliance Guru's, Maytag top loading washing machine wont drain/rinse

A washer is never broken if you have a wife.

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Sounds like it is clicking but won't spin?

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Thanks for the reply.

It only clicks when its on the rinse cycle/doesnt drain the water. Washer doesnt do anything.

But when I stop the washer and put it on the Spin cycle, clicking stops and washer spins like its supposed to

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Sounds like you got a small cloth item stuck in the bottom water pump. Thought I was going to have to replace my washer before I broke it apart and found a baby sock stock in the pump.

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Same thing here, baby sock...Couldn't believe that's all it was when I broke it down. Really easy to do. Google is your friend.

Good Luck

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Sounds like it is clicking but won't spin? Broken shear coupling, about a $10 part. Its made to break so the motor and transmission won't tear up. If it's broken the pump won't turn either. If you are capable of changing the oil in your vehicle then you can do this. After you drain the water, turn it on its side to access the bottom. The coupling is between the motor and the transmission. It should be about bolts to access the coupling. For a more detailed method/instructions look on YouTube. I don't have a link but it shouldn't hard to find. If you work slow it might take an hour, but you'll save a hundred bucks. Plus the trips to the laundry place for a few days. Hope that helps.

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Only Whirlpool direct drives have anything like this.

A maytag is almost always belt driven.

Clicking in a maytag compounded with drain issues are a bad drain. Being a top load, most likely if it's a foreign object it's inside the pump itself. The pump is between 25-50 depending on exact model.

The above advice does fix the more common issues found on Kenmore and Whirlpool units, that coupler direct drive system is by far the best washer ever made, if you have one, never sell it.

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What exactly is this?

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The best achievement in Washer machine tech. Came out in the Lady Kenmore line in the 70's and is still used today, but only in bargain brands.

You have a motor which directly drives a water pump and an out put shaft coupling.





Most other units use a belt. A belt can snap, or even cause fatige to other companets whenever one component is failing. (a bad water pump can damage the other pulleys due to excessive friction. Plus belts have to be changed.
I see machines from the 70's and 80's getting their first coupler change.

And the part is cheap. While I pay $10-15 for a belt I pay $2-5 for a coupler (price due to Heavy Duty vs all plastic)



Units that utilize this system, also have the only transmission in the industry that can be easily rebuilt and a motor that has more torque than you really ever need and costs less than $75 new.

The machines that have the direct drive system also have a clutch based braking system instead of a transmission or motor based stop system. So you have a cheap part that can be replaced, rather than need a $300 transmission.

You have a $9 pump not a $80 one
You have no belts, so no burnt rubber pieces under your dryer ever, and it just lasts.


There is no engineered obsolesce in these units.






Anyway, the guy I quoted had done a repair on one of these... The OP has something like this...






he could have this one, but since the pump is direct drive in these it usually causes the unit not to spin at all when the pump seizes.