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When to replace brake drums? (Silverado)
Posted on 12/10/14 at 6:24 pm
Posted on 12/10/14 at 6:24 pm
My brother's truck has around 130k miles on it now. I'm gonna be changing out the rotors and pads on the front but I'm unsure what exactly I should do for the back. I have never serviced drum brakes so I wonder if I should replace the entire drum or just replace the shoes?
So my question isn't how to do it, but if it's necessary to change out the brake drums.
Maybe old car guys can give me a hand.
TIA
So my question isn't how to do it, but if it's necessary to change out the brake drums.
Maybe old car guys can give me a hand.
TIA
Posted on 12/10/14 at 6:26 pm to bapple
Not necessary if nothing is wobbling badly. Get them refaced.
Probably didn't need new rotors (old ones can be turned at a garage).
There will be a core charge for your old drum shoes.
ETA: Only work on 1 side at a time so the other can be your guide on reassembly.
Probably didn't need new rotors (old ones can be turned at a garage).
There will be a core charge for your old drum shoes.
ETA: Only work on 1 side at a time so the other can be your guide on reassembly.
This post was edited on 12/10/14 at 6:34 pm
Posted on 12/10/14 at 6:34 pm to weagle99
Can you recommend a shop to have rotors turned? The shop I went to today refused to turn mine.
Just kiddin'
Picture is my nephew's left rear rotor.
Just kiddin'
Picture is my nephew's left rear rotor.
Posted on 12/10/14 at 6:38 pm to DLauw
When I was working at Salisbury Dodge we got a Durango traded in that had front rotors that looked like that. The previous owner had put power steering fluid in the brake master cylinder and seized everything up. It was the most expensive brake job I ever performed. New rotors, drums, rebuilt all calipers and wheel cylinders, flush all lines, replace HCU for the ABS, etc.
Posted on 12/10/14 at 6:43 pm to bapple
quote:
So my question isn't how to do it, but if it's necessary to change out the brake drums.
You always need to do something on rotors or drums, just to break the shiny glaze off the surfaces where the shoes or pads ride...
take your drums to a brake or machine shop and see if they will turn them down a bit...sometimes they won't, if there is not enough metal there. If you can't get someone to turn them down, just get new ones...
ETA: if you haven't messed with drum brakes before, prepare to be pissed...everything is dirty as hell and frozen up, typically...
This post was edited on 12/10/14 at 8:22 pm
Posted on 12/10/14 at 7:21 pm to Spankum
O'Reilly did it for me. No shop around New Orleans had the machine
Posted on 12/10/14 at 7:59 pm to Spankum
Seems like nobody's cutting anymore.
Liability, cost, etc.
Liability, cost, etc.
Posted on 12/10/14 at 8:17 pm to bapple
That fricking chevy silveraydo don't need no damn brakes!! You been spending time with your uncle Rick in a cabin in Gatlinburg.
This post was edited on 12/10/14 at 8:26 pm
Posted on 12/10/14 at 8:26 pm to Jenar Boy
In reply to everyone who suggests turning rotors and drums, it's more of a pain in the arse because I have to get someone to drive me while my truck sits on jack stands while they turn them. Plus, with the labor charge, it costs about the same amount as me just buying new rotors. The drums may be slightly more expensive but the convenience of having everything ready to go right then and there is worth an extra $10-$15 for me.
But if the consensus is either to rework them or have them resurfaced, I'll probably just change the shoes. They won't be taking most of the brake force as the fronts will be. And I'll be changing out those rotors for brand new ones.
Thanks for the advice dudes.
But if the consensus is either to rework them or have them resurfaced, I'll probably just change the shoes. They won't be taking most of the brake force as the fronts will be. And I'll be changing out those rotors for brand new ones.
Thanks for the advice dudes.
Posted on 12/10/14 at 9:26 pm to bapple
Rough sandpaper on the inside should get rid of the glaze
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