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Changing Hub Assembly (2010 GMC/Chevy)
Posted on 9/29/14 at 4:08 pm
Posted on 9/29/14 at 4:08 pm
My Yukon has started to develop a rumble at the passenger front wheel recently. It will only start to get loud at about 50+ mph. I'm suspecting this is an issue with my bearings, which is an entire hub assembly on GM trucks.
I watched a video on it to see how difficult it appears to be. It doesn't look super complicated and appears the only thing I need that I don't have is a 36mm socket for the axle nut. (I'll link the video when I'm home; on a phone).
If anyone has worked on an 07-12 GM truck and replaced a hub assembly, how difficult was it? And should I stick with an OEM hub or get something aftermarket? They seem to run a little below $200 from prices I've seen online. I'd also like to save some bucks and not pay $1000 for them to replace it at a shop if it's easy.
I figured I would call on my OB brethern.
Outdoor Board! Assemble!
I watched a video on it to see how difficult it appears to be. It doesn't look super complicated and appears the only thing I need that I don't have is a 36mm socket for the axle nut. (I'll link the video when I'm home; on a phone).
If anyone has worked on an 07-12 GM truck and replaced a hub assembly, how difficult was it? And should I stick with an OEM hub or get something aftermarket? They seem to run a little below $200 from prices I've seen online. I'd also like to save some bucks and not pay $1000 for them to replace it at a shop if it's easy.
I figured I would call on my OB brethern.
Outdoor Board! Assemble!
5
Posted on 9/29/14 at 4:12 pm to bapple
It is really easy and if you have seen the videos online then you can do it. Its only three bolts holding the bearings on but one of them you cant get off until the axle is pushed back a little bit.
And yes that big socket for the axle is the only specialty tool you will need. The rest you prolly have already.
And yes that big socket for the axle is the only specialty tool you will need. The rest you prolly have already.
Posted on 9/29/14 at 4:13 pm to bapple
I had to replace one on my 08 Silverado. One place quoted me like $600 if I recall correctly. I found a shop in Abbeville that let me got to Autozone and buy the part and he installed for $50.
I was gonna do it myself, but from what I read and saw, the torque on the axle nut had to be pretty precise and I don't have a torque wrench and for how little the guy charged me, didn't wanna frick with it.
I was gonna do it myself, but from what I read and saw, the torque on the axle nut had to be pretty precise and I don't have a torque wrench and for how little the guy charged me, didn't wanna frick with it.
Posted on 9/29/14 at 4:13 pm to bapple
I've had to replace both front hub assemblies on my 2004 tahoe. was about $400 to have done at a shop.
Posted on 9/29/14 at 4:20 pm to Hermit Crab
replaced the hub assembly on my 2010 2500HD.
400 for new hub assembly.
** Make sure you spray the bolts down with penetrant to dissolve the glue shite they put on the bolts. if you dont, you can turn a 2 hr job into a 12 hr job after using a rotary tool to take a stripped 15mm bolt down to a 14mm bolt. **
Also, check the tire and make sure it didnt pop a belt or some weird shite. My tire was actually the issue and not my hub assembly
400 for new hub assembly.
** Make sure you spray the bolts down with penetrant to dissolve the glue shite they put on the bolts. if you dont, you can turn a 2 hr job into a 12 hr job after using a rotary tool to take a stripped 15mm bolt down to a 14mm bolt. **
Also, check the tire and make sure it didnt pop a belt or some weird shite. My tire was actually the issue and not my hub assembly
Posted on 9/29/14 at 4:21 pm to bapple
Replace the whole spindle with a hub already pressed in. Much easier brah. Rockauto has them.
Do ball joints while you're at it
Eta: I forgot those are the bolt on ones. Use either a big impact or a breaker bar with extension on that hub nut. Tighten it down the same way
Do ball joints while you're at it
Eta: I forgot those are the bolt on ones. Use either a big impact or a breaker bar with extension on that hub nut. Tighten it down the same way
This post was edited on 9/29/14 at 4:23 pm
Posted on 9/29/14 at 4:25 pm to jimjackandjose
quote:
Also, check the tire and make sure it didnt pop a belt or some weird shite. My tire was actually the issue and not my hub assembly
I got brand new tires last Tuesday. I thought it may have just been tire noise but it's only coming from one spot.
Good to hear the hub assembly isn't hard to install.
Do y'all think an impact wrench at max ~165psi will be enough to break out that axle nut? If not I guess I could use some regular ole man power and use my body weight on a breaker bar.
Posted on 9/29/14 at 4:26 pm to bapple
Also, should I stick with OEM or get aftermarket?
Posted on 9/29/14 at 4:35 pm to bapple
i used aftermarket... Havent had any issues... After the penetrant spray, a $20 dollar pull bar was plenty to pop it off. Prior to the penetrant, strip city.
The issue with the air tool is access. Has some tight spacing.
It's a prett easy job though honestly.
The issue with the air tool is access. Has some tight spacing.
It's a prett easy job though honestly.
Posted on 9/29/14 at 4:50 pm to bapple
That impact will not be enough. Just use a breaker bar
Posted on 9/29/14 at 5:38 pm to bapple
buy Timken if you can...they are the best...
(at least on the 25/3500HD's)
Pretty easy to do yourself...first timer should take no more than 4 hours... If you are good with mechanical things and have the right tools it shouldn't take any longer than 2 hours
(at least on the 25/3500HD's)
Pretty easy to do yourself...first timer should take no more than 4 hours... If you are good with mechanical things and have the right tools it shouldn't take any longer than 2 hours
Posted on 9/29/14 at 5:44 pm to Pepperidge
quote:
Pretty easy to do yourself...first timer should take no more than 4 hours... If you are good with mechanical things and have the right tools it shouldn't take any longer than 2 hours
I've replaced pads and rotors numerous times. That's about half the battle with this.
Thanks for the advice guys.
Posted on 9/29/14 at 5:55 pm to Pepperidge
quote:
buy Timken if you can...they are the best...
(at least on the 25/3500HD's)
Here's the one I found. Pretty good price too...
Hub Bearing - Timken
Posted on 9/29/14 at 7:36 pm to bapple
Moog has the best warranty.
I use a half inch impact to remove axle nut. Slide axle back a little bit and remove 3 bolts holding hub assembly. Don't have to remove cv all the way. Be careful with speed sensor wires
I use a half inch impact to remove axle nut. Slide axle back a little bit and remove 3 bolts holding hub assembly. Don't have to remove cv all the way. Be careful with speed sensor wires
Posted on 9/29/14 at 7:58 pm to bapple
If you wanna do it without putting the tire back on, have someone press on the brakes while you get the nut loose with the breaker bar
Posted on 9/29/14 at 8:07 pm to bapple
It's really easy. I've done several with a breaker bar/torque wrench.
Go with timken I don't think they're much more than OEM and are worth the difference
Go with timken I don't think they're much more than OEM and are worth the difference
Posted on 9/29/14 at 9:35 pm to CP3
quote:
Go with timken I don't think they're much more than OEM and are worth the difference
The Timken set I linked up there is $177. Seems like a hell of a deal to me.
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