- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
Dryer Question - Water in basket and heat turning on before start
Posted on 7/12/14 at 3:03 pm
Posted on 7/12/14 at 3:03 pm
My dryer (clothes dryer) is messed up. Yesterday we noticed a puddle of water at the bottom of the basket (where the clothes dry). Figured maybe rain water blew in a few days ago. Now today I notice that as soon as I crank the dial to any time setting, even before I actually start the dryer, the heating component starts glowing orange and putting out a ton of heat, even before I start it.
I know nothing about dryers. Any ideas?
I know nothing about dryers. Any ideas?
This post was edited on 7/12/14 at 5:46 pm
4
Posted on 7/12/14 at 3:07 pm to adamsblueguitar
quote:
Any ideas?
Stop using it until it is fixed...
Posted on 7/12/14 at 3:10 pm to Mac
STOP USING till fixed 
Posted on 7/12/14 at 3:12 pm to Mulat
Of course I've stopped using it. 
Posted on 7/12/14 at 3:15 pm to adamsblueguitar
I don't think there is any connection between the water and the dryer malfunction...however, you obviously need to get it fixed or you are gonna burn your house down...
Posted on 7/12/14 at 3:28 pm to adamsblueguitar
heating element is grounded.
Or the red wire and black wire are getting continuity past the timer motor.
Strange, I guess it means your dryer doesn't have a two part safety on the heating element.
One leg of voltage should flow through a thermal cutoff then to the element. Usually this is sent from the timer red wire or the motor red wire.
When from the motor red wire there is a centrifugal switch that sends one leg of power to the element. This leg is hot at all times.
If it is jumped or not present in your dryer design. Then if the element is grounded it will come on as soon as the timer control contacts send power to a leg of the heating element.
The water tells me you have a bypassed or non functioning thermal fuse. Because to have condensate you have to have bad airflow; which is caused by a restriction. Since restriction leads to fires ALL dryers have a thermal cut off which limits the blue power input to the motor. (or the heating element on gas units or GE elec dryers)
You need to vacuum out your air vent of replace it. see if your dryer blows good from the back.
Note these issues are independant UNLESS caused by a failing timer.
Do you have access to a multimeter?
Check for continuity (with power off) between the element and the metal in the dryer.
Your thermal fuse should be replaced anyway it may have failed closed.
Or the red wire and black wire are getting continuity past the timer motor.
Strange, I guess it means your dryer doesn't have a two part safety on the heating element.
One leg of voltage should flow through a thermal cutoff then to the element. Usually this is sent from the timer red wire or the motor red wire.
When from the motor red wire there is a centrifugal switch that sends one leg of power to the element. This leg is hot at all times.
If it is jumped or not present in your dryer design. Then if the element is grounded it will come on as soon as the timer control contacts send power to a leg of the heating element.
The water tells me you have a bypassed or non functioning thermal fuse. Because to have condensate you have to have bad airflow; which is caused by a restriction. Since restriction leads to fires ALL dryers have a thermal cut off which limits the blue power input to the motor. (or the heating element on gas units or GE elec dryers)
You need to vacuum out your air vent of replace it. see if your dryer blows good from the back.
Note these issues are independant UNLESS caused by a failing timer.
Do you have access to a multimeter?
Check for continuity (with power off) between the element and the metal in the dryer.
Your thermal fuse should be replaced anyway it may have failed closed.
Posted on 7/12/14 at 3:34 pm to Napoleon
quote:
The water tells me you have a bypassed or non functioning thermal fuse. Because to have condensate you have to have bad airflow; which is caused by a restriction. Since restriction leads to fires ALL dryers have a thermal cut off which limits the blue power input to the motor. (or the heating element on gas units or GE elec dryers)
as always, very good info to know...
Posted on 7/12/14 at 4:12 pm to adamsblueguitar
So, the heater is coming on before anything else? Keep a phone on speed dial to 911 handy.
At least set the setting to air dry or no heat and see if the heater is still coming on.
You've certainly had shomething short due to the water in the dryer. I'd open that sucker up and see what wires fused together.
At least set the setting to air dry or no heat and see if the heater is still coming on.
You've certainly had shomething short due to the water in the dryer. I'd open that sucker up and see what wires fused together.
Posted on 7/12/14 at 4:24 pm to East Coast Band
quote:
So, the heater is coming on before anything else? Keep a phone on speed dial to 911 handy.
people say this. bu there is still a hig limit cut off that will cut all power to the heating element if it gets that hot.
I have seen them ground to where the element stays on as long as it is plugged in.
OP I need more info to help you
(dryer model number)
I doubt any wires are close enough together to short due to water.
Unless again in the timer, but the water is a airflow problem.
Posted on 7/12/14 at 4:24 pm to Spankum
quote:
.however, you obviously need to get it fixed or you are gonna burn your house down...
With any luck, OP lives close to Carson.
Posted on 7/12/14 at 5:45 pm to Napoleon
Napoleon,
Posted on 7/12/14 at 11:46 pm to adamsblueguitar
was about to answer but my site with the diagrams is down for maintenance till 2am
Good news it's a simple classic Whirlpool design (Maytag owned by Whirlpool)
Parts are cheap and it's likely an easy fix. Even worst case a timer for this unit is only $10 more than a GE element.
A thermal fuse for this unit is $5 ( I pay $.75)
Good news it's a simple classic Whirlpool design (Maytag owned by Whirlpool)
Parts are cheap and it's likely an easy fix. Even worst case a timer for this unit is only $10 more than a GE element.
A thermal fuse for this unit is $5 ( I pay $.75)
Posted on 7/13/14 at 7:38 am to Napoleon
dp
This post was edited on 7/13/14 at 7:46 am
Posted on 7/13/14 at 7:46 am to Napoleon
okay.
You need to remove the nine screws holding the back main panel on.
These are 1/4" head screws, I use a screw gun, but a nut driver works good too. A ratchet or wrench will take forever.
#17 is your heating element. I believe it may be grounded so check it's continuity to ground. #9 is the thermal limiter, it's what shuts the dryer's heat off when it gets too hot. Check it's continuity too. (but it and the thermal cut-off #15 are probably good if you are getting heat)
#7 is the thermal fuse. It is probably fused closed. I would change it as well.
All of these things will be visible with the back panel off.
I would take the front panel off too though to vacuum out the lint. If YOU DO have a blockage causing condensate then you more than likely have a dryer full of lint.
I see dryer fires that went undetected all the time, it only takes a little bit more for them to start a fire that will take your house down.
You need to see if the element is grounded.
If not, then something is causing it to get power when it shouldn't
If it's NOT grounded then you have a fault with a switch in the motor or the timer.
You need to remove the nine screws holding the back main panel on.
These are 1/4" head screws, I use a screw gun, but a nut driver works good too. A ratchet or wrench will take forever.
#17 is your heating element. I believe it may be grounded so check it's continuity to ground. #9 is the thermal limiter, it's what shuts the dryer's heat off when it gets too hot. Check it's continuity too. (but it and the thermal cut-off #15 are probably good if you are getting heat)
#7 is the thermal fuse. It is probably fused closed. I would change it as well.
All of these things will be visible with the back panel off.
I would take the front panel off too though to vacuum out the lint. If YOU DO have a blockage causing condensate then you more than likely have a dryer full of lint.
I see dryer fires that went undetected all the time, it only takes a little bit more for them to start a fire that will take your house down.
You need to see if the element is grounded.
If not, then something is causing it to get power when it shouldn't
If it's NOT grounded then you have a fault with a switch in the motor or the timer.
Posted on 7/13/14 at 8:08 am to Napoleon
Good info
Posted on 7/13/14 at 10:56 am to Chicken
Napoleon is obviously a man who is good at his job.
Bravo
Bravo
Posted on 7/13/14 at 10:24 pm to Napoleon
Thanks a lot, Napoleon. 
Page 1 of 1
Popular
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News