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A/C question: price for 2 1/2 ton?
Posted on 7/30/13 at 2:01 pm
Posted on 7/30/13 at 2:01 pm
I have a question for the OB...
What would you expect to pay for someone to replace an existing R22 2 1/2 ton unit (the entire system - condensing unit, air handler, coil) for either a Amana or Heil 410A system? It's a downstairs unit with an easy access closet on the first floor.
I'd love to hear what some of you have paid recently and the brands of units that you used.
Thanks OB
What would you expect to pay for someone to replace an existing R22 2 1/2 ton unit (the entire system - condensing unit, air handler, coil) for either a Amana or Heil 410A system? It's a downstairs unit with an easy access closet on the first floor.
I'd love to hear what some of you have paid recently and the brands of units that you used.
Thanks OB
6
Posted on 7/30/13 at 2:03 pm to TigerPimpNationTrank
$3200 from a friend who does AC work, or $6000 from a company you call out of the yellow pages.
Posted on 7/30/13 at 2:05 pm to TigerPimpNationTrank
$4,000 or less.
Posted on 7/30/13 at 2:15 pm to Capital Cajun
quote:
$4,000 or less
This
We just had a 4 ton put in for less than $3500
Posted on 7/30/13 at 2:31 pm to TigerPimpNationTrank
Call a friend who is a contractor. he can buy the unit wholesale for 50% off and then let someone install it.
Posted on 7/30/13 at 2:35 pm to TigerPimpNationTrank
I put a 3ton Rudd unit outside and inside for $3000 a few years ago. 10 year warranty on all parts.
Posted on 7/30/13 at 2:59 pm to TigerPimpNationTrank
there are few other factors for price other than 2.5 ton
Posted on 7/30/13 at 3:01 pm to NYCAuburn
quote:yep. Need to know if it's an upflow unit and what is the SEER rating
there are few other factors for price other than 2.5 ton
Posted on 7/30/13 at 3:03 pm to Motorboat
quote:
Call a friend who is a contractor. he can buy the unit wholesale for 50% off and then let someone install it.
Cost for a 13 SEER 2.5 ton upflow/downflow system is about $1600.00 for contractor. Most charge 50% to you plus labor. 3k if they don't have to replace your copper lines and can use the existing plenum and drain pan set up. Double that or more if they need to replace all that. If the system and copper is old, it may not hold up to the much higher pressures of 410a. Many older houses and cheaply built houses used cheap lower pressure copper that would need to be replaced before running a 410a system.
This post was edited on 7/30/13 at 3:06 pm
Posted on 7/30/13 at 3:37 pm to TigerPimpNationTrank
Why the entire system (Cond & Evap)? Did they both crap out?
I personally like Ruud/Rheem products. I've seen some older Amanas and Heil R22 systems last forever, but I don't know about the new ones. But regardless of brand, I look for a Copeland Scroll compressor inside the Condenser sections.
Since you already have copper that was intended for R-22, there are many reasons I'd stick with R-22 replacements (cond & evap).
I get my AC equipment wholesale, so I don't know what retail prices are.
I personally like Ruud/Rheem products. I've seen some older Amanas and Heil R22 systems last forever, but I don't know about the new ones. But regardless of brand, I look for a Copeland Scroll compressor inside the Condenser sections.
Since you already have copper that was intended for R-22, there are many reasons I'd stick with R-22 replacements (cond & evap).
I get my AC equipment wholesale, so I don't know what retail prices are.
Posted on 7/30/13 at 3:51 pm to CoastieGM
The problem with sticking with R22 replacements is the cost of R22 these days. Any unit you get will be dry charged(have no R22) per Federal regs. Cost on R22 for a large contractor is close to $400 per 30# can. That significantly changes the dynamic of a R22 Vs 410a system. A 25# can of 410a is $75.00 and a small 2.5 ton condenser is going to be already charged with 410a so you use much less of it. It's just not worth sticking with R22 unless you are only replacing 1 small component. The price will only increase over the years for R22.
Posted on 7/30/13 at 3:52 pm to CoastieGM
The inside coil is dripping from the inside of the coil into my air return area. I have cleaned the coil several times and it just keep dripping from the inside. The outside condensing unit keeps on running and running, and is going bad. I've had two different AC guys tell me that both need to be replaced.
Tell me about Ruud systems. I have Amana now and am seriously considering the Ruud - seems very affordable and durable.
Tell me about Ruud systems. I have Amana now and am seriously considering the Ruud - seems very affordable and durable.
Posted on 7/30/13 at 4:49 pm to convertedtiger
quote:Right
Any unit you get will be dry charged(have no R22) per Federal regs.
quote:Wow. I have a pallet of that stuff I bought 10 years ago for my rentals...guess I made a pretty good investment!
Cost on R22 for a large contractor is close to $400 per 30# can
quote:That's $13/lb x 9 lb charge = $120. Not that big a deal even if you double that price. That's a small price to pay to avoid losing/damaging 410a equipment due to refrigerant circuit gum-ups that can happen after a conversion (even when properly flushed). Happened with one of my rentals, and several service techs at my annual Cont. Ed. meeting had the same bitch.
Cost on R22 for a large contractor is close to $400 per 30# can
My position is that if you're going to switch to 410, replace the copper and everything. Otherwise, stick with R22.
quote:It'll come down, just like R11 did. Millions of pounds of R22 are coming into the US from Mexico via bananna boats having reefer work done in US shipyards.
The price will only increase over the years for R22.
Posted on 7/30/13 at 5:14 pm to TigerPimpNationTrank
quote:OK, first question. Your Evap section (inside the house). Is it vertical or horizontal? Does the air pass through it side to side or from bottom to top?
The inside coil is dripping from the inside of the coil into my air return area. I have cleaned the coil several times and it just keep dripping from the inside.
quote:Has the coil on your condenser (outside unit) been cleaned with a light acid solution? The aluminum on those fins get a thin layer of oxidation you can't see, and that oxidation enormously reduces the heat exchange. Soap and water do absolutely ZERO for oxidation removal...they only remove dirt and grime. You can get the acid from an AC supply house. It'll be pink. Follow the directions and DILUTE the shite out of it, or your fins might disappear.
The outside condensing unit keeps on running and running, and is going bad.
If acid cleaning doesn't work, then I agree it's time to replace the condenser.
How old is that house? Square footage? Degree of sun exposure vs shade? I'm curious about the 2.5 ton sizing and whether it's really big enough.
Ruud/Rheem: Same company/product. I love them. Put them on my rental properties the last 20 years...all of them are still going. I just make sure they have a 2-pole contactor along with a high pressure safety with a MANUAL reset. Combined with a digital thermostat, these systems are the bomb. My only gripe is that the condenser sections (outside) are kind of a pain in the arse to properly clean.
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