- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
Yall wanna help me with my truck A/C problem?
Posted on 7/21/16 at 6:45 pm
Posted on 7/21/16 at 6:45 pm
I'm sweating more in my truck than I am standing outside. Probably blowing around 80 degrees at idle, but cools off when I'm moving. Went to my buddy's place and he hooked up the machine to evacuate and recharge it today. Everything seems to be functioning well, but my low side pressure sticks at 75-80psi from idle to 2000rpm, and I can't figure out why. High side is at normal 250. It's like the orifice tube is too big or something and letting too much pressure passed it, so the A/C obviously won't cool.
I'm trying not to replace the entire system if I don't need to, but I don't want to keep throwing parts at it either. Rebuilding everything (compressor, condensor, accumulator, belt, and orifice) is only $315 in parts, but it is a huge PITA to do. If I get him to do it, that is 8-10hrs of labor that I'd be paying for.
tl;dr version
95 degrees today
blowing 80 degrees out of vents
low side 75-80psi from idle to 2000rpm
high side 250psi
condenser clean and fan clutch works fine
low side pressure doesn't drop when squirting condenser with hose
I'm trying not to replace the entire system if I don't need to, but I don't want to keep throwing parts at it either. Rebuilding everything (compressor, condensor, accumulator, belt, and orifice) is only $315 in parts, but it is a huge PITA to do. If I get him to do it, that is 8-10hrs of labor that I'd be paying for.
tl;dr version
95 degrees today
blowing 80 degrees out of vents
low side 75-80psi from idle to 2000rpm
high side 250psi
condenser clean and fan clutch works fine
low side pressure doesn't drop when squirting condenser with hose
Posted on 7/21/16 at 7:21 pm to Hammertime
Is the AC clutch (not the fan clutch) engaging at all to spin the compressor? Low pressure cut out switch might not be kicking in.
Posted on 7/21/16 at 7:23 pm to NASA_ISS_Tiger
Yup. That's why the high side is at 250
Posted on 7/21/16 at 7:41 pm to Hammertime
quote:
Hammertime
quote:
Yall wanna help me with my truck A/C problem?
You are the one that usually has the answers for other people's vehicle problems.
Posted on 7/21/16 at 7:49 pm to WPBTiger
Nah, I'm just good at guessing sometimes. Unless there is some kind of blockage after the orifice, I can't figure out why the pressure is so high. If I keep on keeping on, it'll frick up the compressor
Posted on 7/21/16 at 8:01 pm to Hammertime
Year/make/model of truck would be a nice thing to know.
Posted on 7/21/16 at 8:19 pm to Hammertime
Have you felt the piping under the hood? Is the low side piping sweating and the high side hot?
have you added Freon lately?
fwiw, one time mine was doing something similar and the temp control linkage was out of adjustment, so there was always some air blowing over the heater core to warm up the AC air....
have you added Freon lately?
fwiw, one time mine was doing something similar and the temp control linkage was out of adjustment, so there was always some air blowing over the heater core to warm up the AC air....
Posted on 7/21/16 at 8:22 pm to KingRanch
I don't think that is a part on my truck
quote:High side is hot and low side is cold and sweats. Just got it completely evacuated and recharged today with 2.7lbs by that machine
Spankum
Posted on 7/21/16 at 8:35 pm to Hammertime
Those trucks do have problems with the blend door actuators but those cause full heat not just warm air. It sounds like a restriction that is after the service port and before compressor. Accumulator or collapsed low side line possibly.
Posted on 7/21/16 at 8:52 pm to ScottyB
The lines all appear to be in good shape. I ran my hands over everything today after the truck cooled down. Haven't ever heard of a restriction in the accumulator, but that is in line with what I was thinking
Posted on 7/21/16 at 9:07 pm to Hammertime
Sorry should have been more clear. By collapsed line I meant the rubber line could internally have come apart at one spot blocking flow. If your buddy has a bore scope it will only cost an oring and a few minutes to check. Also I doubt the accumulator is clogged but possible. Cheap and should be done with a repair anyways
Posted on 7/21/16 at 9:21 pm to ScottyB
I'm not familiar with GM a/c systems but do they have receiver dryers? That could be clogged or restricting flow. Usually located near the condenser by the radiator.
My other guess was somewhat mentioned already. A blend door may not be closing fully, allowing hot air from the heater core to mix with the cooled air.
Other than that, I know they're similar but I'm more familiar with foreign a/c systems that use expansion valves instead of orifice tubes.
Clogged or restricted evaporator core maybe?
Just tossing out ideas bro.
Good luck.
My other guess was somewhat mentioned already. A blend door may not be closing fully, allowing hot air from the heater core to mix with the cooled air.
Other than that, I know they're similar but I'm more familiar with foreign a/c systems that use expansion valves instead of orifice tubes.
Clogged or restricted evaporator core maybe?
Just tossing out ideas bro.
Good luck.
Posted on 7/21/16 at 9:25 pm to ScottyB
Scotty...when you say blend door actuators...I'm thinking the doors that swap from cold to hot in the truck cab...keeping the hot air from the heater core from blowing in the summer...and vice versa in the winter.
Used to be controlled with vacuum lines. Is that the lines you're speaking of?
Used to be controlled with vacuum lines. Is that the lines you're speaking of?
Posted on 7/21/16 at 9:26 pm to cdaniel76
Dryers are on vehicles with expansion valves and accumulator with orifice tube. The serve a similar purpose though. Also could be evaporator clogged. Just remembered it's after the service port as well.
The blend door ( or temp door if you will) controls the flap between the evap and heater for temp control. To be clear my truck 04 1500 has the dual zone control. I'm not familiar with the other systems. Again though if that is your prob it blows full heat usually.
The blend door ( or temp door if you will) controls the flap between the evap and heater for temp control. To be clear my truck 04 1500 has the dual zone control. I'm not familiar with the other systems. Again though if that is your prob it blows full heat usually.
This post was edited on 7/21/16 at 9:30 pm
Posted on 7/21/16 at 9:27 pm to Hammertime
Check your blower motor switch
Resistor switch
Resistor switch
This post was edited on 7/21/16 at 9:31 pm
Posted on 7/21/16 at 9:30 pm to NASA_ISS_Tiger
quote:
Is the AC clutch (not the fan clutch) engaging at all to spin the compressor? Low pressure cut out switch might not be kicking in.
smack the ac clutch with a mallet
Posted on 7/21/16 at 9:30 pm to ScottyB
quote:
Dryers are on vehicles with expansion valves and accumulator with orifice tube. The serve a similar purpose though. Also could be evaporator clogged. Just remembered it's after the service port as well.
Thanks for the heads up. I knew the systems were different but I've never messed with an orifice tube system.
Posted on 7/21/16 at 9:33 pm to Cracker
I'm new here and don't know how to quote yet but if someone tells you to fix your account system with a hammer please don't listen. Quite ironic suggestion given your handle though
Popular
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News