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re: Who raises cows on the OB
Posted on 2/5/12 at 8:13 pm to angus1838
Posted on 2/5/12 at 8:13 pm to angus1838
Oh yea. My friend is like that w her horse. He is a good horse but strong She just doesn't trust him and rides w hard hands so he is in a fat snaffle for his sake. I rode him with a mean arse bit but I have soft hands. We swapped bits for her again.
1
Posted on 2/5/12 at 8:35 pm to BBMcGee
I need some bit advice. my QH doesnt seem to respond to the bit well. Ive tried curb, argentine snaffle, another milder variation of the curb, and I picked up a curb with a copper roller yesterday but havent tried it yet. Im thinking about getting something milder just to see what he does. im worried that since he wont stop with these harsher bits, that I will be in trouble with something milder. he reigns well and all, but stopping seems to be his problem.
Ive been trying to be light handed with him but the bastard just wont listen unless I really yank the shite out of the reins to make him stop.
Ive been trying to be light handed with him but the bastard just wont listen unless I really yank the shite out of the reins to make him stop.
Posted on 2/5/12 at 8:49 pm to diat150
Have you tried a snaffle without any sort of curb? My TB always Had a lot of go but he just happier in a softer bit.
I would try a snaffle of some sort. You can do a twisted wire or slow twist which are still strong bits but don't have poll or curb pressure. And don't forget to use your seat when stopping. I try to tell beginners to think of it as squeezing them into a halt.
I would try a snaffle of some sort. You can do a twisted wire or slow twist which are still strong bits but don't have poll or curb pressure. And don't forget to use your seat when stopping. I try to tell beginners to think of it as squeezing them into a halt.
Posted on 2/5/12 at 8:51 pm to diat150
I am not dogging you by any means but just from the sounds of it its operator error. Curb bit has a pretty god amount of stop to it. It sounds cruel but start walking him and make him stop.if he current respond to gentle use force. By that I mean pull both reigns equal and extend your legs in front of the horses shoulders. As soon as he respond to the stop take the pressure off that is his reward. And repeat multiple times
Posted on 2/5/12 at 8:55 pm to BBMcGee
thats what I am going to try next.
Posted on 2/5/12 at 8:58 pm to angus1838
quote:
I am not dogging you by any means but just from the sounds of it its operator error. Curb bit has a pretty god amount of stop to it. It sounds cruel but start walking him and make him stop.if he current respond to gentle use force. By that I mean pull both reigns equal and extend your legs in front of the horses shoulders. As soon as he respond to the stop take the pressure off that is his reward. And repeat multiple times
I dont doubt that I am some of the problem... but I have tried doing what you say while riding and it just doesnt work with him. right now it is tough for me to spend much time riding with all of the rain and the short days, but once the time changes i will be able to mess with him some more.
Posted on 2/5/12 at 8:59 pm to diat150
Big bits don't fix anything, keep buying bits and pretty soon you got barbed wire in his mouth and he is still running away. Learn to get hime to give to pressure. Halter or snaffle bit the horse should respond the same.
Posted on 2/5/12 at 9:01 pm to Nodust
quote:
Big bits don't fix anything, keep buying bits and pretty soon you got barbed wire in his mouth and he is still running away. Learn to get hime to give to pressure. Halter or snaffle bit the horse should respond the same.
any exercises I can do to work on this?
Posted on 2/5/12 at 9:14 pm to diat150
With a halter or snafflebit, start by taking slack in rein on one side once contact is made on bit hold, wait for him to give or release to the pressure. DO NOT take up the slack let him giving be the reward.
Then pregress to while stading still take up the reins til contact is made, once he gives to the pressure-tucks nose in release imediatly.
To teach stops I start by at a walk saying whoa and sitting back in the saddle, let him find the stop by himself. As I progress in his development I expect him to stop quicker. A horse I've ridden for a few months better stop. Like Yosemite Sam when I say whoa I mean whoa.But you have to give him a chance first.
Then pregress to while stading still take up the reins til contact is made, once he gives to the pressure-tucks nose in release imediatly.
To teach stops I start by at a walk saying whoa and sitting back in the saddle, let him find the stop by himself. As I progress in his development I expect him to stop quicker. A horse I've ridden for a few months better stop. Like Yosemite Sam when I say whoa I mean whoa.But you have to give him a chance first.
Posted on 2/5/12 at 9:17 pm to Nodust
I know how to set up a good rig for training cuttin horses
Posted on 2/5/12 at 9:18 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
know how to set up a good rig for training cuttin horses
I want one of them mechanical calf things. Got a few spare bike parts think I got enough to put it together.
Posted on 2/5/12 at 9:20 pm to Nodust
My neighbor (you might know him) used to be really into cutting horses and he used a real simple setup to train his horses. He used to win alot so I guess it worked. Just a cut in half bike spread about 20 yards apart with a flag tied on the cable.
Posted on 2/5/12 at 9:23 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
The only thing I can't figure out is that most bike pedals only work in one direction. A ten speed will free wheel and kid bikes will apply the brakes. How would I get the pedals to turn the back wheel when pedaled backwards.
Posted on 2/5/12 at 9:28 pm to Nodust
It shouldnt be hard. Just tack weld the gear on the back to the axle or something. I don't remember how he did it and I don't have a 10 spd bike handy in my living room
Posted on 2/5/12 at 9:31 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
Thats what I figured I would do. I think the old bike I got is the kind that brakes when reversing pedals probably something in the gears. I may take it apart and see how it works.
Posted on 2/5/12 at 9:35 pm to Nodust
It shouldn't be complicated at all. I think the ones that free-pedal backwards have a one-way clutch in them. Not sure how the brake ones work. It should be extremely easy to figure out though. Imma look at my bike tomorrow and see how it looks like it works.
Posted on 2/6/12 at 6:00 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
I went bought this bit and took him for a ride with it and the difference was night and day. it wasnt perfect, but was a great start. Im gonna try and practice starting and stopping with him this weekend if weather permits. Had much better control over him, thats for sure. Stopping progressed as we rode and by the end of the ride, was much much better.
Posted on 2/6/12 at 6:10 pm to diat150
Try not working him fresh. Make him run and tire him out then start riding.
Posted on 2/6/12 at 6:54 pm to diat150
Good bit, that's all I use. When I say snaffle I am refering to a non leverage bit. Leverage bits are good if the horse has been trained properly in the snaffle or halter first.
#1 rule is if you make contact on the bit he must give to the bit. Do not release until he dose.
And make sure you use a leather curb strap just to keep it from pulling through his mouth.
#1 rule is if you make contact on the bit he must give to the bit. Do not release until he dose.
And make sure you use a leather curb strap just to keep it from pulling through his mouth.
Posted on 2/6/12 at 7:21 pm to diat150
Go on amazon and get a few Mark Rashid books. His writing is entertaining and has plenty of good insight and techniques.
Buck Brannaman
Buck is the one that the movie Horse Whisperer is loosely based. I have read some of his books and DVDs. The Faraway Horses is an increadible book.
Buck Brannaman
Buck is the one that the movie Horse Whisperer is loosely based. I have read some of his books and DVDs. The Faraway Horses is an increadible book.
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