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Posted on 8/3/15 at 10:15 am to deaconjones35
Yeah a Kreg jig is a must, but i used a biscuit jointer this last time, and OMG that was handy...That makes it 100 times easier to keep the table top completely flat.
Posted on 8/3/15 at 10:25 am to SportTiger1
I used plans from this website and just changed things around where I saw fit.
The walkthrough is pretty good but I think this guy is pretty excessive with certain things like the wood glue, number of screws, and how reinforced the table is. I didn't do as much as he did and I promise this table is built like a tank.
LINK
We used 0 wood glue, only 2.5 inch pocket holes with the kreg jig. The wife wanted it to be actually rustic looking (reason the boards aren't perfectly flat) can't stand the DIY tables that come out looking manufactured.
I still have to build the extensions for the table ends at some point.
The walkthrough is pretty good but I think this guy is pretty excessive with certain things like the wood glue, number of screws, and how reinforced the table is. I didn't do as much as he did and I promise this table is built like a tank.
LINK
We used 0 wood glue, only 2.5 inch pocket holes with the kreg jig. The wife wanted it to be actually rustic looking (reason the boards aren't perfectly flat) can't stand the DIY tables that come out looking manufactured.
I still have to build the extensions for the table ends at some point.
Posted on 8/3/15 at 10:26 am to SportTiger1
yeah, I'd like to get one of those.
Posted on 8/3/15 at 10:30 am to The Last Coco
I would definitely add a router to your tool box.
Also, Anna white uses pocket holes to join her bread board ends and doesn't take wood expansion into consideration. I wouldn't recommend that.
Also, Anna white uses pocket holes to join her bread board ends and doesn't take wood expansion into consideration. I wouldn't recommend that.
Posted on 8/3/15 at 10:33 am to BoogaBear
quote:
We used 0 wood glue, only 2.5 inch pocket holes with the kreg jig. The wife wanted it to be actually rustic looking (reason the boards aren't perfectly flat) can't stand the DIY tables that come out looking manufactured.
Not using wood glue or something to seal those joints equal to the finish you put on the table, may result in some serious moment and warping. But, that seems like you don't care as you stated you like the "rustic look".
Nice looking table.
Posted on 8/3/15 at 10:46 am to Sparkplug#1
quote:
Not using wood glue or something to seal those joints equal to the finish you put on the table, may result in some serious moment and warping
I don't foresee it moving much. Kiln dried wood and it's screwed together pretty good.
Will always be inside as well. Then again, I'm far from an expert on this so I guess I'm just hoping it doesn't move and warp.
Posted on 8/3/15 at 11:02 am to BoogaBear
quote:
I don't foresee it moving much. Kiln dried wood and it's screwed together pretty good.
Will always be inside as well. Then again, I'm far from an expert on this so I guess I'm just hoping it doesn't move and warp.
I said "may", hopefully it won't. I'd also worry about creaking sounds once the center of the 4x4's acclimate to being cut so deep. Kiln dried wood usually still has a different moisture content in the center when its that thick. Also, even though its in a controlled environment, its still going to move during seasons, but hopefully not enough to concern you.
If I built that table I would mock it up, then disassemble and finish all sides of each piece equally, and reassemble (if not using glue). But, I'm hard on myself and never think anything I build is as perfect as it could be.
My post was more for other people that want to do a DIY project, and want to learn. You have a fine table there, sir.
Posted on 8/3/15 at 11:08 am to Sparkplug#1
quote:
If I built that table I would mock it up, then disassemble and finish all sides of each piece equally, and reassemble (if not using glue). But, I'm hard on myself and never think anything I build is as perfect as it could be.
My post was more for other people that want to do a DIY project, and want to learn. You have a fine table there, sir.
Thanks
I in no way pretend to know what I'm doing with this type of stuff. I appreciate the advice a lot.
Posted on 8/3/15 at 11:12 am to BoogaBear
quote:
I in no way pretend to know what I'm doing with this type of stuff. I appreciate the advice a lot.
No one ever knows exactly what they are doing with wood. Its always a learning process, for myself included.
Posted on 8/3/15 at 11:14 am to Sparkplug#1
quote:
My post was more for other people that want to do a DIY project, and want to learn. You have a fine table there, sir
Yeah, I have built about 8 farmhouse tables, 16 benches, and a handful of rustic headboards along with misc coffee tables, sofa tables, potting tables, kitchen islands. I have sold almost all of them as a little side business. I am still learning and I am pretty hard on myself when one does not come out as I like, especially because I am selling them, but have had no complaints. 98% of the stuff I do is "rustic" or industrial, so that helps. I actually distress most of my furniture with a dremel to make it look like it's old. If I had to do "fine furniture"....I would quit.
Posted on 8/3/15 at 11:45 am to deaconjones35
quote:
If I had to do "fine furniture"....I would quit.
It totally sucks, I"ve had to spray the same piece like 6 times and fix movement/joint problems for several weeks, until I thought it was "OK", but not perfect. I love wood, but hate it.
If you can see any microscopic join on fine furniture, it isn't right.
This post was edited on 8/3/15 at 11:48 am
Posted on 8/3/15 at 2:28 pm to BoogaBear
quote:
I don't foresee it moving much. Kiln dried wood and it's screwed together pretty good.
Will always be inside as well. Then again, I'm far from an expert on this so I guess I'm just hoping it doesn't move and warp.
I almost always use glue when possible. Problem with just relying on screws is as a screw in wood sees a tension load the screw (head) will pull further into the piece of wood and the joint loosens over time. That is unless you use washer or plates that help distribute the load from the head of the screw. Something like a deck board which only seems compression loads don't have to deal with the heads being driven further unto the work piece. Once modern wood glue dries the glued joint is usually stronger than the piece of wood. No more joints getting loose over time and no more creaking because of that. Also if you are screwing into end grain that makes for a very poor screw joint. Glue there helps a lot also.
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