re: Spring Weed Guide For Lawns

quote:

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Posted by VanRIch online on 4/7/16 at 2:34 pm to marinebioman Alright, I have a large section of yard that is separated from any grassy areas. It has never had sod. I want to kill everything here except for a few trees and then spread grass seed. What can I spread and where can I get it? Thanks

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Anyone?

Anything I can spread with a spreader. It's like a 1/4 of an acre.

Boot,

I need to apply some F-Stop to the backyard. I also need to lay down a second dose of weed free zone. Ideas on how long I should wait between the 2?

Gotcha. I was out of town and the sales lady talked her into f stop.

From LSUAgcenter:

A lawn of warm season grass is established by solid sodding, stripping, plugging or sprigging.
Some grasses may be seeded. Sprigging or seeding is best done when soils warm to about 70
degrees or more at 2-inch depth. Always choose fresh vegetative material that is alive and free
from pests. It may be dormant, but active material is best. Have the soil tested for nutrients at
least a month before planting. If it needs fertilizers, it may be easier to apply them while prepar-
ing the soil.
Herbicides may be useful at this time. Talk to your county agent about this option. Till or
harrow the soil. A fresh seedbed is important for any form of establishment.
Water the prepared area well before you plant. When the soil has dried enough to be in
good condition, begin planting.
To sprig Bermuda, Zoysia and St. Augustine grass, plant sprigs or stolons. Tear apart or shred
the clumps of stems to get small pieces, each with a few roots. Make a series of small paral-
lel trenches about an inch deep and 10 to 20 inches apart. The closer spacing will give a faster
cover but will cost more. Place individual pieces vertically in the trenches, leaving most of the
leafy portion above the ground. Firm the soil around the sprigs, and water the sprigged area im-
mediately after planting. Maintain a good moisture supply, especially during the first two weeks.
An easier method of establishing the hybrid Bermudas and the Zoysias is to “stolonize” by
broadcasting shredded stolons over the surface of the freshly tilled lawn.
First scatter the stolons over the prepared area at the rate of five or six bushels of sto-
lons per 1,000 feet. Use as much as twice that for Zoysia. Firm the stolons against the soil by
cultipack or rolling over them with a weighted lawn roller. After rolling, cover the stolons lightly
with straw or light mulching material. A 1/4-inch covering of sand is satisfactory for this pur-
pose. Other materials such as peat moss, weed-free topsoil, shredded bagasse and weed-free
composted sawdust may also be used at the rate of l/2-inch cover. Peat moss and shredded
bagasse should be wet thoroughly before spread-
ing. After the mulch has been applied, roll again to
ensure firm contact between the cover material
and the stolons. Water immediately after the sec-
ond rolling, and maintain a good moisture supply so
that the cover material doesn’t dry out.
Plugging is commonly used to plant St. Augus-
tine, Centipede and sometimes Zoysia grasses. It
may be used satisfactorily, however, with any of
the grasses. These grasses should be freshly dug by
the nurseryman in blocks of 1/3 to 1 square yard.
Soil is left on the root system of the blocks. These
blocks are then cut into plugs 2 x 2 inches to 4
inches square. Small holes are dug in the prepared
area at regular intervals, usually 10 to 20 inches
apart. One of the plugs is placed in each hole. If 4-
inch plugs are placed 12 inches apart, then you will
need 7 sq. yds. of sod to plant 1,000 sq. ft. For Ber-
muda and Zoysia, use a 2-inch plug with 10-inch
spacing; others, 3 to 4-inch plugs. This will require 4
sq. yds. per thousand. Firm the soil around the plug

First cutting of the year. probably the best it will look all year.

The OB

The 2,4-D won't get the grassy weeds...and MSMA is your next option, assuming the grassy weeds aren't a sedge

Nice looking stripes!