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Posted on 1/19/14 at 7:51 pm to bbvdd
A spray foam attic has to be 100% sealed from ventilation. I I trying to do a retro, prolly not a good idea
Posted on 1/19/14 at 7:56 pm to Chad504boy
quote:
Just do radiant barrier in attic and spare yourself spray foam.
Just don't plan on using your cell phone inside or hanging a OTA antenna in your attic.
Not impressed w/ radiant barrier.
Posted on 1/19/14 at 8:04 pm to VetteGuy
quote:
Radiant barrier
You guys talking about the plywood with what looks like aluminum foil on one side?
That's what I have in addition to a few other things. Phones work just fine. I even qualified for and received $2k check from the state after my build for meeting energy standards.
Posted on 1/19/14 at 8:11 pm to VanRIch
I'm referring to what who me is talking about
Posted on 1/19/14 at 8:12 pm to Chad504boy
Yep.
Aluminum bubble wrap.
Kinda.
Aluminum bubble wrap.
Kinda.
Posted on 1/19/14 at 8:20 pm to Chad504boy
I was thinking of the other stuff.
Posted on 1/19/14 at 8:28 pm to VetteGuy
quote:
Just don't plan on using your cell phone inside or hanging a OTA antenna in your attic.
Dont forget wifi coverage
Posted on 1/19/14 at 8:43 pm to VetteGuy
I just have the tech shield plywood. No other second layer or any rafters are wrapped.
Hard a/c ducts with insulation, 2 stage a/c units, sealed attic entrances with the insulated box over the top, vinyl windows, minimum recessed can lights and the ones I do have are sealed to prevent energy loss.
Hard a/c ducts with insulation, 2 stage a/c units, sealed attic entrances with the insulated box over the top, vinyl windows, minimum recessed can lights and the ones I do have are sealed to prevent energy loss.
Posted on 1/19/14 at 8:47 pm to slapahoe
As other poster said, make sure to get a variable speed AC and variable condenser. Rather than 500sqft per ton it will probably need to be closer to 700.
I went with rafters sprayed. Make sure to check depth and for light. Should be no light from outside getting in and make sure they spray an inch on the rafter itself. They need to be sealed where the heat transfer won't condensate them.
Cost wise it costs a lot to do the rafters. There is over double the sqft than tradition ways and the insulation is about 4x more than fiberglass attic ins. That is probably why u have heard some foaming the joist rather than the whole roof. It will give you a better seal than the fiberglass and a higher r value, but is more affordable.
I went with rafters sprayed. Make sure to check depth and for light. Should be no light from outside getting in and make sure they spray an inch on the rafter itself. They need to be sealed where the heat transfer won't condensate them.
Cost wise it costs a lot to do the rafters. There is over double the sqft than tradition ways and the insulation is about 4x more than fiberglass attic ins. That is probably why u have heard some foaming the joist rather than the whole roof. It will give you a better seal than the fiberglass and a higher r value, but is more affordable.
This post was edited on 1/19/14 at 8:48 pm
Posted on 1/19/14 at 8:56 pm to Who Me
Yep, thats the way to go.
I'm waiting on the summer to see how it all pays off.
If I live to be 103 I'll get all my money back.
I'm waiting on the summer to see how it all pays off.
If I live to be 103 I'll get all my money back.
Posted on 1/19/14 at 9:02 pm to slapahoe
I just did it. 3200 sq ft was $10000. I don't see the point in not doing the attic.
Posted on 1/19/14 at 9:15 pm to INFIDEL
quote:
I just did it. 3200 sq ft was $10000
So you did the completely sealed attic then? Spray directly on the underneath of the plywood of your roof.
Posted on 1/19/14 at 9:18 pm to INFIDEL
quote:
I just did it. 3200 sq ft was $10000. I don't see the point in not doing the attic.
This is mine also...
Posted on 1/19/14 at 10:45 pm to wickowick
Built last year... metal roof is spray foamed. Exterior walls are Structural Insulated Panels (SIPs). House is about as sealed as one can get and damned near literally an ice chest.
Being that sealed it requires fresh air intake so we installed a heat recovery ventilator.
It's amazing how well it's performed in the heat and cold.
Being that sealed it requires fresh air intake so we installed a heat recovery ventilator.
It's amazing how well it's performed in the heat and cold.
Posted on 1/19/14 at 11:01 pm to wickowick
if it was only $10k....it would be no brainer for me. did this include other little things such as the fresh air intake?
This post was edited on 1/19/14 at 11:04 pm
Posted on 1/20/14 at 9:03 am to slapahoe
I looked at this way:
Let's assume the spray foam was 10k more than regular insulation. If it cuts my bill only a $100 a month that's a 100 month ( 8 year) payback.
Now, I believe it will cut it a good bit more than that and given that energy costs will continue to rise, it was a no-brainer.
Obviously, if you aren't planning on staying in the house, you may not want to do it.
Let's assume the spray foam was 10k more than regular insulation. If it cuts my bill only a $100 a month that's a 100 month ( 8 year) payback.
Now, I believe it will cut it a good bit more than that and given that energy costs will continue to rise, it was a no-brainer.
Obviously, if you aren't planning on staying in the house, you may not want to do it.
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